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Structural Slab for new WFO

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  • mikku
    replied
    Re: Structural Slab for new WFO

    Materials update:

    The spiral SUS304 pipe came today. Ordered a 1 meter section of 150mm and 200mm along with what is called a "150 T Collar". My fabricator friend called, he had already cut a hole in some 1mm thick stainless and spot welded the collar in place.

    If I had the budget for regular insulated chimney, I would have bought ready made. This assembly was Y10000 or approx $100. I also got a couple of pieces of .035 stainless to make caps for the space between the tubes. The 150 fits inside the 200 with a 25mm gap. I'll start with a couple inch layer of refractory at the bottom, then fill the balance of the tube with dry perlite. Once I get to the top, another layer of castable and another stainless ring.

    Don't know if this thinking is valid or not, I think that it is important for the inner chimney to heat up as hot as possible to maintain draft. The insulation should assist with that. But it will also cool quickly?

    Which is better? Fill with castable refractory and it will keep the temperature high longer, but requires longer to heat up?

    Or fill all with perlite, using hi-temp gasket cement to hold the stainless caps in place?

    Or my first thought?

    That is probably something for Sunday or later next week.


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  • mikku
    replied
    Re: Structural Slab for new WFO

    [QUOTE=brickie in oz;146554]The only way for moisture to get into my oven is via the moisture in the air

    I was referring to your style of build: w/o render or pericrete insulation where steam buildup would not be an issue. Your design would work well in probably all locations. But in more damp locations, wind driven rain blown during heavy storms would still go down the chimney and soak a lot of the masonry. Still no steam issue...except if you attempted a roaring fire without some drying first.

    But for me and a lot of other people with dome enclosures with full render and pericrete insulation, how would you advise us to cope with the problem of possible steam damage? This is something that I am try to anticipate in the build phase rather than try to correct later!

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  • brickie in oz
    replied
    Re: Structural Slab for new WFO

    Originally posted by mikku View Post
    even those with full roof enclosures.
    The only way for moisture to get into my oven is via the moisture in the air, for 90% of the time the air here is relatively dry so I have no issue.

    The ambient moisture content of Victorian air (where I live in Au ) is 12%, so its no big issue.

    I know its 12% because some time ago I did a lot of hobby furniture making, one issue with furniture is the moisture content of the timber being used.

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  • mikku
    replied
    Re: Structural Slab for new WFO

    Originally posted by brickie in oz View Post
    All you need now is the dipstick.....
    If I remember correctly on your own build, you did not have a full render or pericrete insulation layer so you have no issue with the possibility of built-up steam in these areas.

    If you did, however, how would you provide for this moisture to escape? Since every build has entry points for water--even those with full roof enclosures.

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  • brickie in oz
    replied
    Re: Structural Slab for new WFO

    Originally posted by Gulf View Post
    Since curing I have reduced that to 1" for a breather.
    All you need now is the dipstick.....

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  • mikku
    replied
    Re: Structural Slab for new WFO

    Originally posted by stonecutter View Post
    1) Yes, that is a good sign...and a slow cure is best.

    2) Hair cracking in the skim coat is due to the drying process and the material shrinking.
    That is indeed good news! Thank you for reinforcing my suspicions and pointing me in the right direction!

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  • mikku
    replied
    Re: Structural Slab for new WFO

    Originally posted by Gulf View Post
    Question for other forum members: For those who have left a permanent vent in their rendered dome, what did you use? What size did you make it? And why?
    I left a 2" ish opening in the top of my dome because that is the size of a beer can . Since curing I have reduced that to 1" for a breather.
    Thanks Gulf!
    I understand this is your breather, but what is it? A special item or something you found that meets your needs?

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  • stonecutter
    replied
    Re: Structural Slab for new WFO

    Originally posted by mikku View Post
    Two pieces of good news today!

    1) Took the plastic off the "Oya stone" outer landing area and it looks fine, tapped on it lightly with no echo sound to it. The stone still has a damp appearance to it.. Think that is good--to allow the cement in the thinset to set up slowly. (Just covered it back up with plastic--don't see any reason for a rushed dry here!)

    2) The thin render coat over the pericrete has begun to show some hairline cracks. To me that is an indication that the layer below of insulation is finally drying out. The entire render area, structural slab, and exposed areas of pericrete all have the same "light gray" color of dry concrete. I am sure there is still plenty of water deep inside the insulation--but not in the quantities originally.
    1) Yes, that is a good sign...and a slow cure is best.

    2) Hair cracking in the skim coat is due to the drying process and the material shrinking.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gulf
    replied
    Re: Structural Slab for new WFO

    Question for other forum members: For those who have left a permanent vent in their rendered dome, what did you use? What size did you make it? And why?
    I left a 2" ish opening in the top of my dome because that is the size of a beer can . Since curing I have reduced that to 1" for a breather.

    Leave a comment:


  • mikku
    replied
    Re: Structural Slab for new WFO

    Two pieces of good news today!

    1) Took the plastic off the "Oya stone" outer landing area and it looks fine, tapped on it lightly with no echo sound to it. The stone still has a damp appearance to it.. Think that is good--to allow the cement in the thinset to set up slowly. (Just covered it back up with plastic--don't see any reason for a rushed dry here!)

    2) The thin render coat over the pericrete has begun to show some hairline cracks. To me that is an indication that the layer below of insulation is finally drying out. The entire render area, structural slab, and exposed areas of pericrete all have the same "light gray" color of dry concrete. I am sure there is still plenty of water deep inside the insulation--but not in the quantities originally.

    Question for other forum members: For those who have left a permanent vent in their rendered dome, what did you use? What size did you make it? And why?

    Leave a comment:


  • mikku
    replied
    Re: Structural Slab for new WFO

    Hello again Lawrence,

    Like I said, I have a lot of work to finish.. Probably the only work done outside will be "initial firing for drying and curing" then back indoors for everything else. The base will be done after the frost leaves the ground. Why fight the weather when there is a forklift less than 1 km away that I can use just by calling!

    Have a full sized gas oven at the house right now--why rush?
    Just doesn't get to the temperatures of wood! Haven't tasted pizza baked in a WFO or as a matter of fact---anything else either! So, I cannot miss what I haven't tasted!

    No objections from this camp!
    What did you think I was objecting to?

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  • mikku
    replied
    Re: Structural Slab for new WFO

    Originally posted by brickie in oz View Post
    It looks like all Japanese stuff in that you have to get on your knees to do it?
    Good evening "Brickie of oz - samma", a term of honor (the samma).

    Funny thing you should say that! The first time that my wife saw this project, she asked if I was making an "O Haka", that is the term used for "burial vault"!

    I told her--"it is a little small for me!" but if she figured out how to use it, it could serve two purposes. Cremation purposes, then burial vault.

    I know that you are trying to get me excited--but not today! It was sunny and cool and a nice break from the rain.

    Instead of directing you back to the beginning of this thread to get the straight poop on what is going on, "Like do your legwork first before asking questions!", I will simply reply that the "oven has no legs yet"!

    The hearth will be around 1150mm height when it gets set up permanently.

    Also, aside from most of my power tools, everything around me is quite "North American". My house in the USA had much more oriental features than the one here... Shoji screens, oriental silk screen painting, pottery and cold to name a few!

    Haven't even decided if the legs will be steel/ or stainless, wooden timbers, or block or a cast base. Probably cast concrete...I have no aptitude for stacking blocks!

    This oven is getting heavier by the day--but with the casters, I can move it into the sun and push it further indoors for the evening, can even rotate it to get sun on different surfaces!

    I am really glad that you keep tabs on my little build. Thank you for the confirmation on the mortar recipe.

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  • Laurentius
    replied
    Re: Structural Slab for new WFO

    I said finished! Most people eat while they're finishing, hope you don't object to that?

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  • mikku
    replied
    Re: Structural Slab for new WFO

    Hi Lawrence,
    Thanks for your vote of approval!

    Still needs to dry out a lot, then a base for chimney and at least one full render before my stucco coats (or Shikui--name used here).

    I do not want to get into the trap some fall into. Once a first pizza is produced--the finished oven gets put on the back burner..

    I think that there are many "schools of fish" in this forum.. The pros or perpetual oven builders, the DIY'ers who want to get it perfect from start to finish, and the people who just want to use them. And a mix of them all! I think it is easy once the oven can heat--to switch to the user school!

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  • brickie in oz
    replied
    Re: Structural Slab for new WFO

    It looks like all Japanese stuff in that you have to get on your knees to do it?

    Leave a comment:

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