New NorCal build

[sharptailhunter]

Re: New NorCal build

That Quikrete will just fine for filling the cores and securing your vertical pieces of rebar. It takes, surprisingly, quite a bit of concrete to fill those cores. I used a harbor freight cement mixer to mix min but still had to use the wheel barrow to get it over to the block stand. I just used a spade shovel to lift and drop it down in. I've seen guys cut out some scoops out of empty milk or laundry soap jugs. Those looked like they worked pretty slick. For mixing in a wheel barrow, an old garden hoe works well.

[Greenman]

Re: New NorCal build

The flexible plastic tubs with handles are good for filling cores. Just squeeze the handles together and you have a pouring lip/funnel and it is the simple way to do it.

Just have to be careful not to overfill the tub unless you are built like the incredible hulk!

[proc]

Re: New NorCal build

Here's the latest.

https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=8YXVwtw9Uvs

Thanks to Sharptail for the tip about cutting down a detergent container. A thin one worked better than a fat one, it still held plenty of concrete and was very accurate / clean.

Some of my cement mixes were a little soupy, but this thing is so overbuilt that I'm not concerned. Hot tip for the day, don't have your son control the water flow if he isn't sure which way is off and which way increases the flow.

I found that each core can be filled with a 60 lbs bag of concrete with just enough left over to cap the next (empty - cement bag on top of bottle filled) core.

Next step is to fill the center (talk about overbuilt), add hardiebacker and drop the rebar between the two hardibacker boards (or use one big board and drill a hole for the rebar).

[sharptailhunter]

Re: New NorCal build

Hot tip for the day, don't have your son control the water flow if he isn't sure which way is off and which way increases the flow.

But at least he's out there working with you and that's what truly matters most :-) I like to use a trigger spray nozzle at the end of those. That way I can spray small amounts of water into my mixer at a time. And, no having to run back and forth from the house to turn the water on/off.

Looking good, keep up the good work!

[GianniFocaccia]

Re: New NorCal build

but at least he's out there working with you and that's what truly matters most :-)

+1

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[proc]

Re: New NorCal build

Both kids have been roped into helping and I think they will remember this as adults. Maybe make them think they should make one of their own some day!

Here's the latest state.

https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=Byk5n8VR1hb

Rebar all in and tied. Forms build and there's some shoring under the hardibacker. Form is strapped and screwed so I am pretty sure it will be solid when a thousand pounds of cement is poured in there. Will post again when the cement is hardened and the form is pulled.

[proc]

Re: New NorCal build

the platform is set, now the real work begins. Naturally, I have a question or two for the audience.

I'll start by saying that I'm looking at a 40" interior.

What's the better way to insulate. Several inches of vermicrete or two of the forno bravo boards cut to fit under the dome? (I am pretty sure that two boards could be cut in such a way that they would cover the dome area.) Or maybe a bit of both, an inch of vermicrete under boards.

If you use boards, do you fill in the surrounding area with vermicrete to further insulate and level the surface? Seems like that would also lock in the boards.

Looking forward to some sage advice on this stage of the project!

[proc]

Re: New NorCal build

Quick scan after putting on a layer of leveling concrete. Turns out, the camera depth sensor really does not like leveling concrete!

https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=WftkmSyvEw7&play=1

Insulation pad comes next. Right after I make a batch of IPA...

[proc]

Re: New NorCal build

I have added my insulation pad. I decided against the FB boards as it would have cost about $300 (edited - not $600) to buy enough to cover the area and I would have ended up throwing away a large percentage after cutting it to shape. Luckily, a friend of mine is making one and the two boards I purchased were a perfect fit for his area.

I went with a 5" perlicrete pad instead. The perlicrete seems a little grainy to me... I tried to keep it dry as the aggregate can suck up a lot of water. It did leak a bit of water after it was all put in, but not much.

https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=BQNXx2BYxoL&play=1

The brown stuff around the edge is gardening boarder. Flexible, but stiff and strong. Held in place with some extra paver stones. I figured I would leave that in place until I insulate the dome to prevent any edge crumbling while I am laying bricks.

[proc]

Re: New NorCal build

Next up is my floor and first course. And I have a question.

Does the first course sit on the insulating pad or does it sit on the layer of firebrick?

In either case, does this get mortared to the bottom? I would assume so, but figured I would confirm.

[Gulf]

Re: New NorCal build

There is a lot of debate about it, but the dome brick can sit on the floor brick or on the floor insulation. In neither case, should the first course be sitting in a bed of mortar imo. Many, including myself, preferred to rest the dome on the insulation.

[GianniFocaccia]

Re: New NorCal build

Does the first course sit on the insulating pad or does it sit on the layer of firebrick?

Yes.

Either way works. Some build the dome around the floor bricks lest any of them need to be replaced down the road. The dome doesn't get mortared down and simply floats on either the floor or the insulation.

[proc]

Here is a tip for others who are getting started.

When is the right time to make your Indispensable Tool? As soon as your platform is complete. Before you put in any insulating pad or think about laying bricks, make the IT. Every circle you draw should use this tool. Don't eyeball it >_< Don't tie a string to a screw in a 2x4 (who would do that? Oh, right... me). Make the IT a foot too long and drill a hole in it just large enough to put a sharpie in to make the shape for your insulated pad. Once that's in, lay your bricks and use the IT to sharpie your floor circumference. Then cut it to the correct length and put the L shape on the end.

I'm sure this advise is elsewhere on this site. I'm sure it is obvious to many of you. But I personally didn't find it spelled out (and tried to get creative on my own - which did not work). So here it is.

This is my Indispensable Tool. I hinged the platform so that when I need to pull it out, it can be folded down and slide out the door. Saw that somewhere on this site and thought it quite brilliant.

https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=nZVGwtaMUh3

[sharptailhunter]

Your floor looks nice and level! Hinging the platform should help with extracting your IT at the end of the dome build. I would put some plastic down or some other thin material (I used thin Masonite) to protect your floor from excess mortar. That stuff sticks to and at least stains your pretty floor bricks if you don't. Your IT platform would then sit atop that floor covering. Also, you might need to trim the excess metal on the bottom part of the L shaped bracket that holds the brick on your IT. If it's too long or an exact 90 degree bend, it gets hung up on the brick you just mortared in place and you risk knocking your newly mortared brick loose trying to get the IT off it... just what I've seen others have to deal with, figured we can all learn from them :-) Looking good!

[proc]

I used leveling cement and tried as best as possible to keep it plumb across the surface. Though now that I am putting in a soldier course, I can see some areas on the edge of the insulating platform that are less than ideal.

Thanks for the insight on the IT and the L shape on the end. As soon as I started to use it, I saw exactly what you meant! Luckily, the first course (half done) is more about positioning. I should be able to cut away the bottom and shape the top enough that it can be used to both position and hold the bricks in place once I start the second round.

Next major challenge is the arch. Two issues I am trying to work through.

First, how wide? This stupid behemoth is 48" across (Yes, that is rather large. No, no that was not a good idea. But now the die is cast...). I'm looking at a 23" opening at the base of the arch and 16" tall. Seem like a proper size?

Second, how to position the arch? Is the outside of the arch even with the opening of the circle or the inside? I think I'll know the answer once I have a false-works in place and can see how far the IT stretches to the arch. But if anyone has any insights....