Work of Love and Passion... Miami FL

[mrchipster]

Re: Work of Love and Passion... Miami FL

I might add an additional declarative statement that sort of agrees with Gulf.

Chainsaws are dangerous if they can cut through a piece of 10 inch dry oak in 6 seconds.... Which mine can. Just think what they can do to a leg, arm or hand in a split second.

One other thing, the smaller the chain saw the more dangerous it is because it is more likely to kick. And if you do not know what a chain saw kick is you should not have one in your hands.

[gugahulk]

Re: Work of Love and Passion... Miami FL

I might add an additional declarative statement that sort of agrees with Gulf.

Chainsaws are dangerous if they can cut through a piece of 10 inch dry oak in 6 seconds.... Which mine can. Just think what they can do to a leg, arm or hand in a split second.

One other thing, the smaller the chain saw the more dangerous it is because it is more likely to kick. And if you do not know what a chain saw kick is you should not have one in your hands.

As always thanks for the reply guys. You are freaking me out with the safety. But i think i can handle it just fine. I hope. But i still need your help. My buddy probably does not know what wood for me to get. So my question is. Is there any way of identifying soft wood and hard wood. This is all i hear all the time but i cant seem to find out what the really means. I know oak is hard wood and pine is soft wood. But dont know how i would identify any of those woods in the wood. Sorry for my ignorance but i truly have zero experience on this as wood was never needed in my household.

[Tscarborough]

Re: Work of Love and Passion... Miami FL

Safety issues aside, it doesn't matter what wood you burn. Seasoned oak is best, but it all burns and even resinous wood is OK for the initial burns.

Just remember you generally only get to make one mistake with a chainsaw.

[Gulf]

Re: Work of Love and Passion... Miami FL

As always thanks for the reply guys. You are freaking me out with the safety. But i think i can handle it just fine. I hope. But i still need your help. My buddy probably does not know what wood for me to get. So my question is. Is there any way of identifying soft wood and hard wood. This is all i hear all the time but i cant seem to find out what the really means. I know oak is hard wood and pine is soft wood. But dont know how i would identify any of those woods in the wood. Sorry for my ignorance but i truly have zero experience on this as wood was never needed in my household.

Here is a start. Trees & Shubs of Florida.

You mentioned in your earlier post about using trees that have already fallen. The first year that I had my oven, that is all that I used. (That gave me a year to fully season the live cut trees) Selecting mostly the limbs from these trees that had not touched the ground. If it is not too far along in decay, and has not picked up any insects, this type wood is ready to burn. I also selected new "wind falls". Limbs that have fallen during a recent storm. They are usually limbs that were dead well before the storm, and have already had plenty of dry time. Even the very small branches of this type wood is easy to snap by hand into starter tender .

[Greenman]

Re: Work of Love and Passion... Miami FL

You need to seek some local knowledge about what is what in the timber world in your area. With some knowledge and experience your chainsaw will tell you what is hard and what is soft.
Safety is really key with saws, you will only get one chance at it. I harvested timber and milled it and have 10 digits, I know plenty with less than that. Take every precaution with chainsaws and get some knowledge from whatever source that you trust about how to use them safely.

[kanoer54]

Re: Work of Love and Passion... Miami FL

To reiterate what Gulf and Mr Chipster has said...I would suggest you get ALL of the safety gear. A good pair of chaps, leather gloves, eye and ear protection, steel toes boots and even a hardhat. Some hard hats come with eye protection. I would also highly suggest taking a chain saw safety class. I don't know about FL but in IL and MO, the local arborists can often point you in the right direction for where to take a class. Sometimes the government offers classes cheap or even free. Reading a book is one thing but having someone show you is a LOT better and safer. There are many ways to cut a tree down but there is only one safe way. My wife is a retired forester and even she has a slash in her chaps.

[gugahulk]

Re: Work of Love and Passion... Miami FL

Hi guys. Thanks for all the replies on the wood and chain saw safety.

I now have some time as I am waiting for forno bravo to ship to me the ceramic boards. I am planning for my door to be 9 inches or 11 inches tall. What is the standard? I want it to be small as possible but large enough to fit a baby pig and my thanksgiving turkey. Love to hear how tall your doors are. Also if my door is 9 or 11 inches. How tall should my roof dome be?

[mrchipster]

Re: Work of Love and Passion... Miami FL

The golden number is door height 63% of dome height,

Usually people decide on a dome size or in your case vault height. And then make the door to fit.

A 9 inch door would be a 14.25 dome height
An 11 inch door would be a 17.5 dome height.

The width of the doorway is something that does not affect the performance of the oven, so your choice on that.

My doorway is a true arc and it is just wide enough to get my largest paella (21 inch) cast iron pan in. Of course the handles need to be aligned with the door or it will not fit. But that is not a problem because in order to push it in or. Pull it out I. Need to drag it with a hook with one of the handles.

Because you are building a vault - barrel you may want to consider vertical walls for the. First few layers of brick, then a flatter than hemisphere domed roof.

This would require buttressing of the side walls because of the outward forces of a flatter dome.

I have not researched Ratios of wall height and dome arch for this style so others may want to chime in on this.

You have already read Brickie's posts so I believe you know what is required for buttressing.

[gugahulk]

Re: Work of Love and Passion... Miami FL

This would require buttressing of the side walls because of the outward forces of a flatter dome.

Thanks chip. This is just what I needed. Can elaborate on buttressing? Brickie talks about but he does not do it. I will have zero support and i am not building a house. The side walls will stand alone.

[gugahulk]

Re: Work of Love and Passion... Miami FL

Finished laying the floor. But i am afraid I did this totally wrong?

[Tscarborough]

Re: Work of Love and Passion... Miami FL

It looks fine to me, but for the little triangle in the very front right. Better to break bond and split the difference with two larger pieces, especially right in the area with the most use.

[gugahulk]

Re: Work of Love and Passion... Miami FL

It looks fine to me, but for the little triangle in the very front right. Better to break bond and split the difference with two larger pieces, especially right in the area with the most use.

But isn't the pattern wrong? Should i redo it?

[mrchipster]

Re: Work of Love and Passion... Miami FL

Your pattern is not a herringbone but it does the same thing with regard to brick orientation so your pattern is fine. Ovens do not experience linear horizontal forces so the bricks being lined up is not a big issue.

What is that foil? Under the brick?

Take the 3 bricks - front right and make them into 2 per drawing.

[Gulf]

Re: Work of Love and Passion... Miami FL

But isn't the pattern wrong? Should i redo it?

No need to redo. Unless you wanted a herringbone design. As long as your peel strikes the floor brick at a 45 degree angle, your golden. Your floor pattern will work just fine .

[gugahulk]

Re: Work of Love and Passion... Miami FL

Your pattern is not a herringbone but it does the same thing with regard to brick orientation so your pattern is fine. Ovens do not experience linear horizontal forces so the bricks being lined up is not a big issue.

What is that foil? Under the brick?

Take the 3 bricks - front right and make them into 2 per drawing.

Thanks Chip, yes I was going for the herringbone design but I should have researched more how it really was. I can not believe I did this mistake. I am so upset about it. The foil under the bricks is just a support holder of Styrofoam board I bought for template of the door nothing else, it will not be use. Right now is on top of a pallet. I didn't want to lay on the floor and brake my back.

Thanks for the tips on the dual brake. Its a perfect solution and I will work on it tonight.

How ever I am so upset about the pattern, stupid mistake. But the whole purpose of this was not to get my peal stuck so I guess I am ok... I might just leave it how it us and move on. The forms still on as you can see in picture below.