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Design phase of my new WFO at the Cove

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  • #16
    I have some final sketches for the planned oven. Please pick apart at will
    It took me quite a while to work out the inner arch and how it fits in with the dome, i at least now understand the arch position. Tapering the bricks and beveling them to suit the dome will be another challenge.

    I have another question, i have created a dome shape that follows an ellipse. If i use an IT, do i need to make it adjustable to allow each course to be a different distance from the fixed centre point?

    Thanks

    PS i also read a few threads on solid red bricks, it was detailed and scientific, i still think im a chance to use them where spalling is not an issue?


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    • #17
      I have been yo yo ing about the style of vent arch for days now.
      I need good smoke draw and i like the idea of creating more landing width through this section.

      Again i think a elliptcal arch is my preference with some vertical section at the base, this ties in with my overall final oven shape.

      A few examples i have stolen critical parts from from are:

      the darbster - for the brick layout
      https://community.fornobravo.com/for...b-suckling-pig

      JR pizza - like his serpentine shape and bevel at inner arch face joint
      https://community.fornobravo.com/for...er-build/page9

      Sharkey - was the first thread where i saw the curved flue transition, it looks the most streamlined for draw. Awesome engineering on that shade too!
      https://community.fornobravo.com/for...rd-place/page2

      I still find both the hemispherical and and elliptical style looks good to me on any given day - but i need to make a decision or this will never get built. I may even change my mind throughout the build. i haven't cut a brick yet!

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      • #18
        Tommo, your proposed oven is only 1" shy of being a hemispherical oven - If you aren't going to go with the Naples style low dome, why not just make a Tuscan style hemispherical dome? This would allow you to use a fixed length IT? Alternately, if you really want a 40" oven with a 19" height, you could make your IT 19" long from the pivot point, and make your pivot point 1" from the dome centerline and located at the dome floor - I have seen this done using a gate hinge (like the one shown in the picture). Since you are really not a low dome, you could easily go with a hemispherical arch. Your proposed 12" height and 19 inch opening would allow you to use a 9.5 inch radius starting 2.5 from the floor (a brick's thickness) and your opening will essentially look like mine.
        My build thread
        https://community.fornobravo.com/for...h-corner-build

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        • #19
          Originally posted by tommo21 View Post
          Thanks deejayoh,
          I would like to eliminate the inverted vee and if i can find a sensible priced brick saw i will. brick saws here in Australia are about $1000!! i might be able to source a cheaper 'tile' saw and make it work.
          Tommo, to get rid of the internal vee, you really only need to bevel the very front edge of the inner face. See the attached pic - although I beveled the length of the brick, only the touching edges matter. I thought about this when I was cutting my bricks, but with the wet saw it was just as easy to cut down the full length. In a pinch you could always just mark and hit the inner edge with a masonry blade on a angle grinder. When I build my vent arch and chimney I found myself using the grinder a bit and was surprised at how fast it could remove material and shape bricks. If I had to pay over 1K for a saw I might have given the grinder a try. It would leave the gaps at the sides of the bricks with a slight inverted triangle making packing in mortar a little more difficult, but maybe worth the cost and grinding dust?
          My build thread
          https://community.fornobravo.com/for...h-corner-build

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          • #20
            Thanks JR! You simplified a few things for me there. The IT with the offset base will be the way forward. Cheers

            I was originally aiming for a low height dome, however i figured a hemisphere would be easier to build and not require butressing.
            I chose some dimensions that were sort halfway between the tuscan and naples style, but when i drew it up with my chosen dimensions and rounded some of the inches to mm measurements off it sort of matches the tuscan ratios - as you point out JR.
            I think even with the dimensions i have chosen the dome is as 'flat' looking as i was hoping for.

            I just hope by deviating slightly from the hemisphere i don't make construction 100% harder for no real gain.

            And thanks for the tip on cutting corners on the bricks literally

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            • #21
              Have any of the builders in Australia used a cheaper style tile wet saw for their build? I noticed builder 'cookie monster' had used one but i notice he is no longer around to ask about it.
              There are a few on the market much cheaper than a trade quality brick saw, which would be a large outlay for one project. And as much as i like buying new toys - i can't justify a new saw on top of all the material cost.

              Cheers

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              • #22
                And does anyone think i should aim to shorten the distance from decorative arch to oven interior? currently 540mm or 21 inch.
                Deejayoh, i notice you recommended 15" would be better.
                Thanks

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                • #23
                  Look for a used one on your version of Craiglist or classifieds. Normally the cheap tile saws are smaller diameter blades, ie 7" abt 18 cm. This makes it difficult, but not impossible, to do through the brick cuts. But it can be done. Look for a saw with at least a 10" or 26cm diameter blade. Several southern hemi builders have been able to find used saws. I quite understand how expensive materials and tools are for you folks downunder.
                  Russell
                  Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by tommo21 View Post
                    And does anyone think i should aim to shorten the distance from decorative arch to oven interior? currently 540mm or 21 inch.
                    Deejayoh, i notice you recommended 15" would be better.
                    Thanks
                    Yes, I would shorten that. I think it's better to go as short as you can but still fit the flue. You get better angles into the oven with your tools with a shorter vent arch.
                    My build progress
                    My WFO Journal on Facebook
                    My dome spreadsheet calculator

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by tommo21 View Post
                      Have any of the builders in Australia used a cheaper style tile wet saw for their build? I noticed builder 'cookie monster' had used one but i notice he is no longer around to ask about it.
                      There are a few on the market much cheaper than a trade quality brick saw, which would be a large outlay for one project. And as much as i like buying new toys - i can't justify a new saw on top of all the material cost.

                      Cheers
                      I just used a hand-held power saw with abrasive discs and sometimes an angle grinder. That is one reason I came up with the curved flu transition - the cuts are easy.
                      Sharkey.

                      I love cooking with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

                      My Build - Between a rock and a hard place

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                      • #26
                        Here is a link to one of the builds by Alex that was done with a brick bolster and a BFH (big flipping hammer). So it is possible to not use a wet saw and still have a nice build.

                        https://www.flickr.com/photos/alexgu...7627486470166/
                        Russell
                        Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]

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                        • #27
                          Thanks Gents,
                          I still have a bit of time before i begin cutting so i will look in to all the options mentioned!

                          To check my plan of attack though, these are the steps i am planning to take to get started.

                          1. Concrete hearth is curing - i want to add a plastic or painted membrane on top of the slab to stop rising moisture.

                          2. I have read that a 'drainage layer' is a good idea (Randy J's idea?) to get the insulation off the hearth - so i was planning to lay concrete pavers on the hearth. But i am considering Hebel (aerated concrete i think) for this layer. i have seen hebel used on some Aus build as the insulating layer also.

                          3. insulating layer - either insulating firebrick, calsil board, ceramic board, or hebel if efficient? Open to all options here and i probably need to research a bit more.

                          4. Then the cooking floor inside the dome using standard 75mm thick or 3" fire brick for the floor, probably herringbone pattern.

                          I have materials to source and i need to weather proof the area a little bit to start as we are just about hitting the depths of winter here - no snow like the USA builds - but plenty of moisture which could ruin some materials.


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                          • #28
                            Thanks Utah, Alex has done some fine work there. That stand footing would've taken some filling too!
                            I really like his render finish and face brick integration.

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                            • #29
                              Some pictures of works so far.
                              I am trying to reuse materials on hand, so you will notice some unorthodox or not so pretty building methods and results...

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                              • #30

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