It begins!

[mfiore]

Re: It begins!

I poured my footing for the foundation today. This was my first time working with concrete, so I wasn't sure what to expect. I decided to have it delivered. It took 1.7 Cubic Yards to put a 12 inch deep, 16 inch wide footing down. I'm glad I paid the extra cash to have it brought in.

The company pulls curbside, so we had to wheel it to the back yard. I recruited two helpers. It actually went fairly quickly. Twenty minutes, and he was gone. The concrete was much thicker than I had anticipated. They told me the concrete for footings is typically much coarser and stiffer than other applications, and that watering down any makes it weaker.

I had set up some wood frames above grade to act as a remote screeding system, similar to what Dick built. Dick's was built much better, mine didn't work as well. I think the coarseness of the concrete made if fairly difficult to work with. All in all, it went well. If I had to do over, I would push in pieces of rebar (vertically) periodically in the trenches to use as level guides, as Chuck mentioned above. As I've been told, their will be plenty of opportunity to level out as I build up.

I did end up using rebar in the footing. It seemed to be relatively inexpensive. I had received mixed advice, so I went the conservative approach.

Time to order some blocks!

[mfiore]

Re: It begins!

I started building a block foundation. Building a 8 inch wide wall in a 16 inch wide trench that is 4 feet deep is not fun (nor easy), and I'm a thin guy! I'm about 1/4 way done. For my first attempt at using block/mortar/concrete, I am glad that I am underground and none of this will be seen. It does not look very professional.

For this block foundation (remember I live in a cold weather climate with concerns for frost heave), do I need to apply a foundation sealer before I back fill the dirt?

[dbhansen]

Re: It begins!

...do I need to apply a foundation sealer before I back fill the dirt?

Mike, you're probably sick of hearing from me, but since our builds are so similar, I'll give my $0.02. I also debated the sealer. It's certainly added insurance against water infiltration, especially if you're in an area with poor drainage. If by "does not look very professional" you mean that there may be some gaps in your mortar that would allow water into the block cavities, then personally I would seal it. Knowledgeable people I trusted told me that it would be unnecessary for my wall, so I ended up not using it. As long as you're using a jointer tool to strike the joints (see pic attached), you shouldn't need the sealer. Just my unprofessional opinion!

[thebadger]

Re: It begins!

Mfiore,

Thanks for the compliment... I think you did a great job! I just dry stacked my blocks but I did pour concrete in every core (all below grade) and a few cores are "hollow" above grade. Since I did that I didn't add any sealer but did think about it. Glad you went with the rebar. I put rebar in my footer as well...

Keeps us posted.
Dick

[mfiore]

Re: It begins!

Daren, your input is always welcome and appreciated!

The problem I've been having is that their is simply not enough room for me to work. I have 4 inches, at best, on each side of the block foundation. The walls are straight, but if the trench is not in a certain area, than I have less than 4 inches. I've been trying to get the seams filled adequately with mortar. Most are gooping out (too much). Those I'm not as worried about. Others seem to have gaps. I can try to put more in with a jointer. How do I use one of those? I assume just pack the mortar in with it.

I also don't think there is enough room to use a sealer. How is that applied? If its a roller, than I doubt I could get one in that 4 inch space.

How about if I fill all of the cores with concrete. Will sealing the block be as important? How's your foundation coming. These Midwest winters suck! I'll have been working for a month before I can just get to the point where everyone else starts!

Thanks again for your input.

[mfiore]

Re: It begins!

Dick

I think I will fill the cores. It's too late for me to dry stack, but I'm a little concerned about the integrity of some of those mortar joints (see my last post).

I was worried about the foundation, as it was very stiff concrete and difficult to level off. After drying, though, I was only 1/8 inch off level at it's worst points . Pretty happy about that!

[thebadger]

Re: It begins!

Mfiore

Glad to hear. I was off about 1/4 of inch which I made up when I poured my hearth. Sounds like we're buidling very similar foundations.

I'm hoping to fill my top dome with sand so I can finish my rows - on course 6. Hoping to end up about 17 inches high.

Dick

[dbhansen]

Re: It begins!

Filling the cores might give the most peace of mind; I probably should have done that myself.

The masonry jointer tool is used after the mortar is set and slightly firm. You slide the curved portion of it along the joint, compressing and sealing the mortar. It helps keep moisture out, so it may be an important step for a below-grade wall that isn't filled or sealed.

BTW, I concur about our winters! I'll be so happy when I can start working above grade! The cement truck arrives tomorrow for my foundation.

[james]

Re: It begins!

Filling the cores is just labor and money. :-) No skill required. If you want to do something, but not the entire stand, you can fill either just the corners, or the corners and one core in the middle, or every other core.

Drop in a section of rebar.

We have just finished a block wall completely around our house -- and we pumped all the cores. Time and money! Still, for a big wall that was the right thing to do.

James

[james]

Re: It begins!

One more thing. I really like dbhansen's Avatar. Excellent.
James

[mfiore]

Re: It begins!

What is the true benefit of filling the cores? I understand that it will add more stability, especially if rebar is put in.

Will it help, though, if my mortar joints are not the best (will it keep water from entering, freezing, heaving, etc).

Thanks again
(PS. I agree, very cool Avatar for Daren!)

[dbhansen]

Re: It begins!

Thanks about the avatar. It's the only good thing to come out of my brief foray into Google SketchUp!

Concerning the cores, it seems like a below-grade wall may need every core filled, especially if the first row or two of block is mortared down already. Otherwise you'll have water filling up the cores and freezing. Perhaps that wouldn't be a problem as long as there is space above for the ice to move into, but you might want to consider filling every core like Badger did. If they weren't mortared at the bottom the water would have somewhere to go.

[mfiore]

Re: It begins!

Update: I've had two nice days off work and was able to make some progress with the foundation. I put down 4 courses of 8x8x16 concrete block down (over a 12 inch concrete footing). The foundation was tied to the footing with re-bar in the corners.

I plan to fill the cores with concrete tomorrow. I don't think I will seal the foundation. As I got used to working the mortar (and higher up) the joints looked better. I also don't think I could get down the sides of the foundation to seal adequately (I only allowed 4 inches each side of the foundation).

Questions: I plan to put some vertical re-bar into the cores as I fill them with concrete. What is the best way to do this? Should the re-bar just fill be used to lock the foundation blocks together, or should it extend above the top of the foundation (and into the future slab of concrete at ground level) to tie it all together. If the latter is the case, is it enough to have the re-bar poke up a few inches into the future slab, or should it be longer and bent over 90 degrees to provide horizontal support to the slab.

I realize these all sound like silly questions with perhaps obvious answers.

Also, what is the best way to bend re-bar (without buying a "re-bar bender").

thanks

[gjbingham]

Re: It begins!

My neighbor, the iron worker recommended tying in the cores to the slab with bent rebar. He does it for a living and teaches it at a trade school. I took his word for it.

I used a forked tree to bend my 3/8th inch rebar. It works really well. A 5 or 6 inch forked tree allows you to put the rebar in the fork at the point you want to make the bend. Walk with the rebar around the tree and check your bends in the forms. Once bent most of the way, you can do the rest by hand/foot pretty easily.

[dbhansen]

Re: It begins!

Lookin' good, Mike! I bet you're glad to be out of that hole. You're almost caught up with me; I poured my slab last Friday and hope to start the stand this weekend, weather permitting.