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  • Brick base construction

    I'm looking to make a base from brick, rather than Besser blocks, primarily for aesthetic reasons. The oven will be 90cm, so the base will be around 1.5*1.5m. The base will be square and not in a corner. I have a few questions

    Should I double layer the brick? What's the best double layering pattern?

    What should the overall shape of the base be? I've seen an H shape being recommended, but I'd like to use the cavity to store firewood. Does it need something down the middle? I'm thinking maybe like an "m" shape, but the middle of the m goes halfway into the centre. Will this be strong enough?

    And the builds I've seen have the vermicrete layer on the brick layer. Is it OK if I surround the vermicrete with bricks 1 brick thick, as I think not seeing sides of the vermicrete looks better?

    Thank you!

  • #2
    Have a look at my dimensions. I did my base with bricks. https://community.fornobravo.com/for...-oven-drawings
    I did not do an H as I wanted to have my one storage space accessible from the 'front' and the other from the 'side'.
    My 42" build: https://community.fornobravo.com/for...ld-new-zealand
    My oven drawings: My oven drawings - Forno Bravo Forum: The Wood-Fired Oven Community

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    • #3
      Thanks! I'm going to go with my "m" shape to maximise storage and still have some support in the middle.

      Any comment on the laying pattern, or using bricks to hold in the vermicrete layer? I'm thinking a brick surround would be better than putting up a wooden scaffolding to shape the vermicrete layer.

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      • #4
        Another question is, is it ok to use pavers to build the base? I have 230*115*50mm clay pavers that are smooth and have no indent.

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        • #5
          I'm looking to make a base from brick, rather than Besser blocks, primarily for aesthetic reasons. The oven will be 90cm, so the base will be around 1.5*1.5m. The base will be square and not in a corner. I have a few questions

          Why not use 4" block and face it with dimenential brick? For a novice this will be much easier to achieve than building a double brick wall. Beside that you will achieve the same look. If you are in an earthquake area I would use the block/brick. This would also be easier considering the difficulties in the adding of vertical steel for the brick. There are several ways to do it all of which are much more involved than would be just doing block with the brick I mention.

          Should I double layer the brick? What's the best double layering pattern?

          Double layer is necessary not so much for weight but sheer. You need to do a row lock course every few courses, you could divide it up evenly so it looks pleasing. You could also pour a lock band in place of the row lock but that would require forms and would give you a concrete band every few courses. Not the greatest look but an option.

          What should the overall shape of the base be? I've seen an H shape being recommended, but I'd like to use the cavity to store firewood. Does it need something down the middle? I'm thinking maybe like an "m" shape, but the middle of the m goes halfway into the centre. Will this be strong enough?

          With a 3-4" slab there is no need for any middle under support the slab is more than sufficient to hold the weight of a couple of ovens and then some. The H shape works well or a modified H. With the H you can use the opposite side for some type of other storage not even necessarily oven related.

          And the builds I've seen have the vermicrete layer on the brick layer. Is it OK if I surround the vermicrete with bricks 1 brick thick, as I think not seeing sides of the vermicrete looks better?

          No problems doing it this way



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          • #6
            Thank you very much mefornaio! That's very helpful, and I'm digesting your response as I new to masonry

            The other reason to aesthetics is cost - I can get free brick from demolitions.

            When you say row lock course, do you mean, say every 3 courses, that whole course has bricks going across, or do you put a horizontal brick every few bricks on that course? Do you have any recommendations as how many courses?

            And is vertical steel required for double layering brick?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by yoboseyo View Post
              Thanks! I'm going to go with my "m" shape to maximise storage and still have some support in the middle.

              Any comment on the laying pattern, or using bricks to hold in the vermicrete layer? I'm thinking a brick surround would be better than putting up a wooden scaffolding to shape the vermicrete layer.
              Yes, that's exactly what I did. Works fine.
              My 42" build: https://community.fornobravo.com/for...ld-new-zealand
              My oven drawings: My oven drawings - Forno Bravo Forum: The Wood-Fired Oven Community

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by yoboseyo View Post
                Another question is, is it ok to use pavers to build the base? I have 230*115*50mm clay pavers that are smooth and have no indent.
                Sure, they're clay bricks after all. Most older bricks have no indent so there's no reason why you can't use pavers as regular bricks.
                My 42" build: https://community.fornobravo.com/for...ld-new-zealand
                My oven drawings: My oven drawings - Forno Bravo Forum: The Wood-Fired Oven Community

                Comment

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