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  • Blairt
    replied
    Thanks - you're right. I only had the outer circumference shown. I've drawn in the inner circumference now - is this the correct placement for the arch?

    I do intend to use half bricks for the soldier course - is there a preference to half headers over half soldiers?

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    The far right bottom of the inner arch needs to intersect the "ID" of the dome. Since the card board template is the OD and the ID is not shown, cannot tell if placement is correct or not. Also, are you really using soldiers and especially full soldiers, if so you need to be aware of the outward pressure of the dome and top of soldiers at the joint which may require some buttressing. Half soldiers or half headers would be better. Click image for larger version

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    Last edited by UtahBeehiver; 03-07-2021, 05:15 PM.

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  • Blairt
    replied
    Frames are off. I've cut out a 51" circle to show where my oven will go (42" + 2 x 4.5" Soldiers). It doesn't look like it but the cardboard is centered on the slab. With 11" to the outer edge of the slab from the cardboard cutout, I have lots of room on the base for a 4" steel wall for my doghouse cover. I'll cut the inside corners off somewhat with cement board but most of the space will be filled with vermiculite over a 2" FB blanket.

    My inner arch is 13" high and 20.25" wide at the base. I have my door arch frames cut so that the outer arch is 1.5" larger all around. Should make for a good seal around the door. My distance between the arches is 1.5 bricks or 6.75" If I go approximately 16" wide for the chimney opening before going into a square chimney above the arch, is this sufficient? I expect that I will go to an 8x8" square chimney once I am about 2-3 rows above the arch. (I need a full masonry chimney due to code here). Height will be at least 12' so there should be plenty of draw.

    Is the placement of my inner arch correct in relation to the cardboard cutout and where my dome walls will be?

    Next step is to cut the CaSi board to fit my carboard cut out. Bricks on target to arrive early in the week.

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  • MarkJerling
    replied
    Looking good! Don't try to remove your supports under too soon.

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  • Blairt
    replied
    Pad is done. Ended up about 5.5" thick using 2x6 framing material.
    I had leftover fiber-mesh reinforcing material from a concrete countertop project. This is about 1.5" below the concrete surface. In addition to the plentiful rebar, I think it should be quite solid! The weather here is dipping below freezing overnight so I had the tent/cover sealed off overnight with a heater inside. I've now got the heater in the storage area under the pad and the front entry closed off. Concrete is not getting to freezing temps.

    Placed my order for firebrick etc today so hopefully will be able to start the fun part of the project in a few days!

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  • MarkJerling
    replied
    Aha. Makes sense. Other than recommending a 6" slab or more think you have a good design.

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  • Blairt
    replied
    The sheet under the rebar is Durock - cement board. It stays in place and will be a base for the slab. Under that, I have a particle-board support which has 2x4 blocking all around it and is supported by additional 2x4s which are temporarily screwed into the CMUs to ensure that they cannot come down once we start pouring the slab.
    My slab will be about 5". I know there's a risk of cracking above the angle iron but I don't think it's too much of a concern as it would be cosmetic and will eventually be hidden behind the front wall of the doghouse covering. When I go to pour the slab, I am also going to lay down a sheet of fiber mesh concrete reinforcement in that front area where the angle iron is. I used this material when I poured concrete countertops in my outdoor kitchen last fall. It seems to work very well...

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  • MarkJerling
    replied
    Originally posted by Blairt View Post
    Hi Mark. Are you referring to the angle iron? If so, yes. The final height of the pad will be about 1" higher than the iron rails.
    No, I'm referring to the sheet of stuff behind the angle iron, resting on the blocks.
    You'll need to be quite a bit thicker than 1" above the angle iron if you don't want a crack forming above the angle iron. How thick do you plan to make your concrete slab?

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  • Blairt
    replied
    Thanks again Russell. The CaSi is Thermo-1200 which I've seen others use. Not cheap! Ouch!$$

    I do plan on putting in a few drain holes. I've bought some cheap ceramic tile to lay under the CaSi board. Only $1 per foot - they are large tiles but I'll cut them up to allow for more drainage options for the water to find the weep holes.

    The final design will have a doghouse coverage with steel roofing so hopefully once the initial moisture is baked off I don't have ongoing moisture issues. I'm in BC where we get a fair amount of rain so I definitely want good coverage to keep both the oven and myself dry in the long term.

    I'm looking at Gulf's build. Very nice! And yes, that's a tall chimney! Mine will be even higher by the time I go through the roof and clear by 2'. I'm having a professional mason do that part of the build. Better safe than sorry...

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Look at Gulf's build, he also has a large brick chimney under a scissor frame open roof structure. Also the CaSi should have these two critical specs

    Compressive Strength of 75 PSI at 5% compression and a K value of around 0.55 BTu*in/(hr*ft2*F) at 500 F. There are some soft CaSi out there so be aware.

    CaSi is very water absorbent so you need to mitigate, weep holes in the concrete hearth is easy for you to place now rather than try and drill in later with all that rebar. Place on 1/2" pvc cut just short of the top surface with the end taped over then after the pour you can take a piece of rebar or rod and knock though the top easily. Also place the CaSi on on cheap or scrap ceramic tiles to raise the insulation off the concrete hearth. With being under a pergola water ingress would be as prevalent but these are two cheap preventive measures.
    Last edited by UtahBeehiver; 03-01-2021, 08:52 AM.

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  • Blairt
    replied
    Thanks Russell. A vote of confidence on the base is really appreciated! There's some pretty serious rebar in there (all free which was a bonus! Many of the pieces are 3/4") The corner rebar pieces are also drilled into the concrete base about 3".

    I have actually found 4" CaSi board so that will be my insulation. I'm pondering still adding a couple of inches of perlite/cement to raise the oven base a bit more but, as you suggest, I'm going to play with it a bit to see where I think it will be most comfortable.

    I have a roof overhead and need to clear a beam which is directly above the front of the CMU base. That pushes my opening back a few inches from the front so I will likely have a longer than typical opening.

    I'm constrained by our local building code which prohibits any type of steel chimney or liner on a masonry fireplace or oven without going through a professional engineer sign-off. That would cost a lot so I don't want to go that route. I'll end up with quite a tall chimney once it clears the roof peak by 2' so there will be a LOT of weight on this base and the oven arch.

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    I agree with David on IFBs, they typically run in the 4-5 USD range each. CaSi or AlSi board, Thermo Gold 1200 or "equivalent" is the best current floor insulation. Min 2 inches up to about 4 optimum. PS, your CMU base is done right and has some serious metal in it. The oven is going nowhere. It is deep so play with how you place the oven opening and access with a peel. Gulf has a really deep oven so look at his build for ideas.
    Last edited by UtahBeehiver; 03-01-2021, 08:08 AM.

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  • Blairt
    replied
    Hi Mark. Are you referring to the angle iron? If so, yes. The final height of the pad will be about 1" higher than the iron rails.

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  • MarkJerling
    replied
    Originally posted by Blairt View Post
    Put blocking underneath Durock and installed rebar today. I filled several of the CMU holes with rocks to avoid having to fill ALL of them with cement. When I looked at the height of the door opening for the firewood under the dome, I thought that 3 blocks high wasn't enough for comfort. I used 2 pieces of 3/8" angle iron to span the opening. This will be filled with concrete as well.
    Is the shuttering permanent?

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  • david s
    replied
    Yes you can, but IFB's are overkill and an expensive solution. Use the 23's as they are lower temperature rated and should be cheaper. You will get a shock at the price and probably want an alternative solution.

    Do some more investigation re stainless flues. Some areas require triple walled flues for indoor applications. That would certainly get around any issues created by the extra weight of a masonry chimney.
    Last edited by david s; 02-28-2021, 07:53 PM.

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