New Modular Corner Build

[njforno]

Hi all, finally getting around to this. I poured the slab for the corner build in 2020. I am going to install a volta 100. I have a few questions and looking for some advice. First, I was wondering how close to the rear edge of the slab I should come with the block? I plan on doing stucco on the rear of the island and oven. In the front, i know where I need to line up for the faux stone facade we plan to use. Next, in the front where the block angles in- What is the best way to fill those gaps? I plan to rebar every other hole, how far do i drill down into the slab to insert the rebar, and do I use epoxy to secure it? Thanks ahead, and I am sure i will have more questions as we go along.

[Pizzarotic]

First, I was wondering how close to the rear edge of the slab I should come with the block? I plan on doing stucco on the rear of the island and oven.

Allow approx 3/8" for the stucco so 1/2" from edge of slab should be fine.

Next, in the front where the block angles in- What is the best way to fill those gaps?

Cut the blocks to the correct angle so there is not a large gap to fill otherwise form it up and fill with concrete.

I plan to rebar every other hole, how far do i drill down into the slab to insert the rebar, and do I use epoxy to secure it?

Between 2/3 and 3/4 of the slab thickness is plenty. You don't really need to set reo into the slab as there is no lateral force on the structure, infact there is no reason to use reo at all in the block work. Yes, epoxy is the normal setting method but you could just use cement and water mix.

[njforno]

thanks very much. I am planning to dry stack the cinder blocks- still no need for rebar?

[Pizzarotic]

As long as you are core filling then the concrete is creating a monolithic structure of the block work and all the forces are compression. Generally, block home construction gets the outer blocks core filled without reo, there is some reo used but this is to tie the slab to the roof trusses. Add some reo if you like or have some available just not strictly necessary in this application.

[Chach]

I don't think there is anything wrong if you pour the cells first with rebar and then tie the structural slab rebar to the rebar coming out of the cells. You can also bend longer pieces of rebar coming out of the cells to tie into the structural slab. If you do a monolithic pour that's great but you can pour it seperate and just make sure to tie it in to the rebar so it won't be able to shift.

Worried though about your access to the pool equipment.

Ricky

[njforno]

thank you- I plan to bend the rebar coming out of the block to tie it into the hearth rebar. This week i will be getting the rest of the block, stacking and filling, and hopefully will have the rebar and form done for the hearth. Pool equipment is accessible, but yes it is close.

[UtahBeehiver]

Cutting the block to minimize the joint is your best option. CMUs are relatively easy to cut with a brick saw or even a hand held grinder with a diamond blade. Mono lintel pours works well and also ties in the hearth to the structure as well.

[njforno]

that looks very nice. i have another question about the hearth depth, and vermicrete. The oven I am buying comes with ceramic insulation board that goes under the oven, on top of the hearth. I read that 4" of vermicrete are recommended on top of the concrete hearth. If I am planning to use the ceramic board, but would like some extra insulation, can I use 2" of vermicrete, with the Ceramic insulating board on top of that? As for the hearth itself, 3" or 4"?

[Chach]

Sure you certainly can do that with the insulation but keep in mind 4" of vermicrete equals 2" of calsil board so 2" of vermicrete is equal to 1" calsil board. As far as the return in R value not sure there will be much there but 2" of calsil is the minimum insulation recommended under the cooking floor. Also vermicrete needs to be pretty dry before you start to build on top so you don't trap the moisture in. It may look dry but it retains a lot of moisture and will need to be expelled. I'd personally either forget about the vermicrete and add another inch of calsil board or better yet put down 1 1/2" of foamglas because it repells water and will keep your calsil dry and still acts as an insulation and gives you nore R value. Or you can just use the 2" of board you have and move on.

Ricky

[njforno]

I like the extra board idea better than the vermicrete- Is Foamglas the same as the pink board insulation you can get at home depot? Or would i need to source the actual Foamglas product somewhere?

[Giovanni Rossi]

Different product. Foamglas board is a bit tough to source in the U.S. and is more available in Europe. It is more of a commercial specialty product for insulating pipe in industrial applications. The board fell out of favor with the construction industry due to cost. Most on the Forum have been able to get the board from Distribution International. I contacted the company through their site just yesterday and am waiting for a response. They show the actual Corning Foamglas product as well as their own version of the boards.

[Chach]

Yes as Giovanni stated, it is a different product than the Styrofoam sheets at home depot. It is a glass cellular product and Distribution International is one of the best places to get it from.

Ricky

[njforno]

I think I have found some foamglas, am in touch with distribution international thanks for the suggestion.

I am having an issue on the corner of the hearth stand. I need to make this turn, looks like a 45 degree but it's probably not exact. Is it ok to cut a triangular piece for the opening on the ground in picture 1? If so, how would I go about flattening out the corner overhang seen in picture 3? I searched and found something like i drew in picture 4. Trying to figure out how to make this work, but I can definitely use some help. Thanks ahead.

[Chach]

Can you sketch how you want your structure to look? This way we can see and try and give some input.


Ricky

[njforno]

thank you. Here is a picture. I will have angle irons spanning the middle opening above the 4th row.