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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Should work like a champ, originally concerned when I saw pic for FoamGlas on top the realized you were using CaSi as a template. Cutting FoamGlas gives of a rotten egg smell, it is from the gas that is used to form the bubbles in the molten glass during the manufacturer process.

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  • Huckleberry Hill
    replied
    Got help from son and grandson yesterday and set the oven prices onto the build. I got foamglas don pecker88 and got that situated under the casi bd. The Casa 90 pieces were ok to move with 3 people-I had been concerned.
    Mortared the seams with the high temp mortar. Really have to keep moist for a few hours to prevent shrinkage cracks! Striped forms off CIP deck. Came out pretty good for a first. Today - insulation blankets and mesh-

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  • SableSprings
    replied
    Looking great Huckleberry Hill Michael! The curing system that most of us agree on now is to start the curing fires with the insulation batting secured on the dome. The insulation moderates the brick temperatures through the curing process and helps keep driving the moisture out more evenly. The more consistent (and slowly increasing) brick temperatures in the dome/cooking floor during the 7-10 day curing process, the less likely the oven is to develop cracks. This is another case of the outdated instructions causing some confusion...and another great reason that when you have done your research that you see these type of inconsistencies, and you ask the forum community.

    Again, great job ... incidentally the tile underlay looks really good. I thought the sheets would allow fairly easy trimming to match the oven footprint...wonderful to see it laid out so nicely. I really like the smaller tile pieces here to create more airflow/moisture escape routes under the ceramic board...even though now it's just "belt & suspenders" . Fabulous that Dan had enough leftover foamglas for your oven as well. Anxious to see the next progress pics.

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  • Huckleberry Hill
    replied
    I ended up getting some small round mosaic tile at Home Depot, It looked like they would allow water free travel between them. I laid them down with the backer facing up so it would not interfere with water flow. I think it looks pretty good! After that was done I found out that Dan, pecker88, could send me his leftover foamglas in time to meet my weekend warrior with the sons this weekend, now i will have a "belt and suspenders" assembly with the tile and the foamglas! I have a question that should probably ask FB- I keep seeing you guys recommending starting curing fires before stucco is done ( igloo style) but the FB instructions say to wait a week after stucco before starting fires. What do you think?

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  • Gulf
    replied
    Michael,

    Any amount elevation of the insulation is better than none. Elevation with a moisture barrier is even better imo. I think that you are golden with your choice.

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  • MichaelPBoisvert
    replied
    Originally posted by Gulf View Post
    I don't think that would be an issue as long as there is not too much of a gap between the tiles. I would be conserned about the mesh unless it were a very close knit mesh. MichaelPBoisvert was thinking about using tiles for elevating the insulation on his build. That was last month, I haven't seen any recent updates on the build.
    This is correct! I had leftover floor tile and lined the structural concrete with it, under my insulation. I left a little sticking out past the insulation. I've been keeping everything covered, so I'm not sure how well or not well it will work.

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  • Huckleberry Hill
    replied
    Originally posted by SableSprings View Post

    How did the pour go? The set up looked great...interested to see some pics of your progress.
    Good morning!
    it went pretty well. I used a higher priced mix- Sackrete 5000 Plus and it set up a lot faster than I expected. I even used a water reducing agent, which should have made it more flowable. I could have used a helper but, that's the way it goes. All in all I got it all in place and tamped into place in a couple of hours. Got a good hard trowel on it in a few more hours. Since I had the 80# bags on the back of our flatbed truck I did not have to lift them to the mixer, saving that fun for the bucket lift to the slab. It turned out easier than I thought.
    I uncrated the Casa 90 yesterday and finagled the pieces off the truck so I could get to the ceramic insulation board. I was surprised there was not a template included to cut the board to for a perfect fit. There were 2 -24"x36" pieces and a couple of irregular cut scrapes that I will have to cut into little pieces to make work. I would have hoped that FB included whole, factory edged pieces! In light of how all the other components are so well made and pristine, I'd have to put this down as a mistake on the factory floor.[ 8/20/2018 edit- got an email from Anthony at FB today and they have overnighted a new full piece! Excellent customer service! Thanks Guys!]
    Thank you for the tile mat idea! Brilliant! I probably have that laying around in the shop. I can return the pavers to HD and by a six pack of beer.
    Well, think I''ll go out to the shop and dig around for that tile. I'ts so smokey here from all the fires around the Pacific Northwest I don't even want to go outside.
    cheers,
    michael
    Last edited by Huckleberry Hill; 08-21-2018, 02:02 PM.

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  • Gulf
    replied
    I don't think that would be an issue as long as there is not too much of a gap between the tiles. I would be conserned about the mesh unless it were a very close knit mesh. MichaelPBoisvert was thinking about using tiles for elevating the insulation on his build. That was last month, I haven't seen any recent updates on the build.

    Leave a comment:


  • bentedesco
    replied
    The tile squares are a very interesting option, actually, I was going to go out and buy pavers today. My only concern is if over time my casi board would slowly "settle" down "into" the tiles? I'm not sure if I'm explaining it right, but could the insulation board eventually be pressed down into the tiles and form indentations where the squares are and thus no longer be 5mm off the concrete?

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  • david s
    replied
    Originally posted by SableSprings View Post

    I've been thinking about the paver option and although they put a minor barrier between the slab and the insulation board, they are concrete and may absorb/transfer moisture more than we'd like. I think David's right in that we can do better. I thought another solution for those who can't find something like foamglas and don't want to chance pavers, would be to buy some of the porcelain/glass mosaic tile sheets/squares to fit on top of the concrete slab, just below the insulation board. No need to grout them in place, so the channels between each of the small tile pieces would remain open for drainage/moist air escape routes to the slab weep holes. Obviously the glass pieces would not absorb water and at about 5 mm thick would provide all the moisture break/barrier needed between any slab moisture/seepage and the insulation board.

    I suspect that most tile places would have sample sheets, partial cases, or discontinued patterns that could be had for quite a bargain price. I would guess most families know someone who's got a box of extra shower or backsplash tiles sitting out in the garage that they would love to trade for a future pizza invite.

    I put a few pics of a sample mosaic tile sheet below, just so everyone is clear on the type of product I'm thinking would work best here to do the job. Anyway, just a thought...not extra insulation like the foamglas, but much less expensive and far more available as a water barrier. Probably even the bigger single porcelain floor tiles would work well and there are always big broken pieces available for the asking at any place that does tile work...
    Good idea Mike, tiles would be a better solution as they'll never rust, many also come pre-glued onto a plastic mat with nice even spaces, although the steel mesh is probably cheaper and provides a bigger volume of air space, could be subject to corrosion living in a moist and hot environment.

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  • SableSprings
    replied
    Originally posted by Huckleberry Hill View Post
    i added 3 1/2 poly tubes for weep holes today. Screened the ends and will trim to just below finish tomorrow before I place the slab.
    How did the pour go? The set up looked great...interested to see some pics of your progress.

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  • SableSprings
    replied
    Originally posted by david s View Post
    I’m not convinced that pavers are the ideal material for this application. Because they are quite water absorbent. You could seal them but their interior would still be water absorbent and the sealing would make any moisture that did get in that much harder to eliminate. A material that is not water absorbent but provides space between the supporting slab and the insulation would be a better solution. Foamglass with spaces between pieces of it or some galv steel mesh would achieve this.
    I've been thinking about the paver option and although they put a minor barrier between the slab and the insulation board, they are concrete and may absorb/transfer moisture more than we'd like. I think David's right in that we can do better. I thought another solution for those who can't find something like foamglas and don't want to chance pavers, would be to buy some of the porcelain/glass mosaic tile sheets/squares to fit on top of the concrete slab, just below the insulation board. No need to grout them in place, so the channels between each of the small tile pieces would remain open for drainage/moist air escape routes to the slab weep holes. Obviously the glass pieces would not absorb water and at about 5 mm thick would provide all the moisture break/barrier needed between any slab moisture/seepage and the insulation board.

    I suspect that most tile places would have sample sheets, partial cases, or discontinued patterns that could be had for quite a bargain price. I would guess most families know someone who's got a box of extra shower or backsplash tiles sitting out in the garage that they would love to trade for a future pizza invite.

    I put a few pics of a sample mosaic tile sheet below, just so everyone is clear on the type of product I'm thinking would work best here to do the job. Anyway, just a thought...not extra insulation like the foamglas, but much less expensive and far more available as a water barrier. Probably even the bigger single porcelain floor tiles would work well and there are always big broken pieces available for the asking at any place that does tile work...
    Last edited by SableSprings; 08-18-2018, 10:55 PM.

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    FoamGlas - I got mine at Distribution International, they have a branch in Spokane, WA just down the road from you. The key, as David S says, is to make sure the CaSi is not sitting directly on the concrete hearth so it cannot wick moisture from the bottom but you also need to pay attention to possible ingress water points from the top as well.

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  • david s
    replied
    Originally posted by david s View Post
    Sorry, no I was thinking of something like 6 mm weld mesh with around 50 mm squares so it would create a 12 mm air space.
    Something like this. It is 3 mm galvanised bar, so is 6 mm thick with 45 mm square spacings. In Australia it is commonly known as weldmesh. My wife grew up in New Guinea in the mid 70’s and it was commonly used as security screening, it was known there as “boy wire”

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1872.jpg Views:	1 Size:	178.8 KB ID:	407415
    Last edited by david s; 08-16-2018, 02:21 PM.

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  • Huckleberry Hill
    replied
    David, I don't know what you mean by galv steel mesh. Can you post a picture or link? Thanks


    i added 3 1/2 poly tubes for weep holes today. Screened the ends and will trim to just below finish tomorrow before I place the slab.

    Leave a comment:

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