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  • #31
    10m x 10m - I thought mine was big at 6x3!! (Size isn’t everything ).

    I have progressed the glazed pergola - got 1 beam set and 2 of the 3 posts for the other side ready - hoping I can have some glazing in place a few weeks now.

    Can take the finishing touches to the oven at a slower pace then.
    My cast oven build thread

    https://community.fornobravo.com/for...-castable-dome

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    • #32
      So my dome is built and insulated (photos to follow).

      I am going to tile it however it is not covered up 100%

      How can I ensure it is waterproof? Or is tiling/grout enough to achieve this?

      would love advise one this one please

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      • #33
        Originally posted by aaronpizza View Post
        So my dome is built and insulated (photos to follow).

        I am going to tile it however it is not covered up 100%

        How can I ensure it is waterproof? Or is tiling/grout enough to achieve this?

        would love advise one this one please
        However, I'm also thinking a waterproof render will be A LOT easier and cheaper to do...

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        • #34
          aaronpizza I have just finished a stucco layer and after it dries for a while I am planning to use an elastomeric flashing sealant to waterproof the dome (I saw David S recommending it somewhere).

          It is not cheap but if it works it is worth it in my opinion. Not sure you will like this option but at least it is an option! Sure, tiles would look better but will probably cost more and from what I could find they are not waterproof.
          Last edited by sergetania; 10-09-2020, 07:37 AM.

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          • #35
            I’m not sure of the product you are going to use, but if it is like a bathroom under tile sealer it may not contain UV protection and therefore unsuitable for outdoor use. Also be aware that any waterproofing will also prevent water escaping from the oven interior therefore creating moisture build up in the insulation layers. If waterproofing the exterior it is important to have some kind of valve or system that will allow the insulation layers to vent to the atmosphere.
            Another approach which IMO is superior although more expensive and labour intensive, is not to waterproof, so the outer shell can breathe but then a roof over the oven. Also be aware that the oven can pick up moisture from high humidity even though no rain has fallen on it. In this case no exterior waterproofing will prevent its entry.
            Kindled with zeal and fired with passion.

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            • #36
              Originally posted by david s View Post
              I’m not sure of the product you are going to use, but if it is like a bathroom under tile sealer it may not contain UV protection and therefore unsuitable for outdoor use. Also be aware that any waterproofing will also prevent water escaping from the oven interior therefore creating moisture build up in the insulation layers. If waterproofing the exterior it is important to have some kind of valve or system that will allow the insulation layers to vent to the atmosphere.
              Another approach which IMO is superior although more expensive and labour intensive, is not to waterproof, so the outer shell can breathe but then a roof over the oven. Also be aware that the oven can pick up moisture from high humidity even though no rain has fallen on it. In this case no exterior waterproofing will prevent its entry.
              Thanks for this ill be sure to think about how it is going to lose internal moisture

              I'm currently on the fence about tiling, I checked with my supplier and they said it is UV stable etc so fine for outside.

              How do you usualy finish your ovens may I ask?

              It will have a roof over it's head so maybe I am just over thinking

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              • #37
                If you have a roof over the oven I believe it’s better not to waterproof it. That way it can dry itself more easily when you fire it. Additionally you can probably dispense with a moisture valve provided you have driven out nearly all the moisture before applying the outer rendered shell.

                The product I use to waterproof the outside is Flexible Pointing. This is a flexible high build acrylic product with plenty of UV resistance. designed to coat the mortar on tiled ridge caps. As a tiled roof experiences a wide range of temperatures and therefore movement, the mortar holding the ridge cap tiled often cracks, sometimes creating roof leaks. Before this product was invented it was a common job for roofers to remotest the ridge cap tiled back into place. Now they never do. Designed to be troweled on I find it way easier to apply by brush, but that requires dilution with water by 20% It contains fine sand which gives it a high build and 3 costs make a thickness of around 2 mm. It will cover tooling marks in the cement render coating, fill and bridge cracks, a wonderful product I’ve used in many other applications.
                Last edited by david s; 10-10-2020, 05:44 PM.
                Kindled with zeal and fired with passion.

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