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Buiding of a 60cm(24'') homebrew oven (NL). Vcrete question.

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  • #31
    have enough room for it?
    Nope, the room is limited will puzzle a bit how far i can go with extra layer.

    With the 'fluffyness' I mean, that I can imagine the fire blanket has a better isolating function if not compressed to much. Is this assumption correct?

    sergetania
    I really like your front or your oven! Looking for tiles like them .

    Did you used tiles that are resistant to frost? What would happen if I use standard bathroom tiles break them to mosaic the outer arch. Would frost break them
    What ratio did you used to make the front (outer arch) (portland:sand:sealer) any special sand for the white colour?
    Would it be possible to add the broken tiles them on a later stage (after I find suitable tiles)

    Will post some photo's tomorrow to share the process in progress.
    My build 60 cm/24'' homebrew, the Netherlands

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    • #32
      If you add an extra blanket layer you can reduce the thickness of the vcrete layer above it to 30 mm (according to David) though I don't think it is always easy because that stuff goes on thick. Fluffyness - yes, correct, don't worry about it unless you are doing something weird instead of simply laying on vcrete. You will see what I mean when you get there.

      Thanks on the facade! I did a really stupid thing with it. I glued the tiles to the bottom of the form with silicone (see the picture). I have since spent hours scrapping silicone with a razor blade and most of it is still there (I also got lucky with a really fresh tube of silicone!!!). Don't use silicone. I was afraid of the concrete getting under the tiles so I would not be able to see them. Lots of guys on the forum embed stones or glass in the bottom layer when casting and then polish it. You can't do it with tiles. I wonder if it would be easier to cast a facade and then glue tiles to it later and grout. I don't know if they would stay when heated or frozen. No idea on the frost resistance either but they are small pieces and they don't crack when heated. Hopefully ok when frozen. I also like the tiles because it is very easy to clean with a soot cleaner.

      I have used a hi-tech countertop concrete mix, same as I used for the hearth foundation and the tabletop next to the oven, with 1/4" rebar. I didn't want to bother with mixing concrete components myself, everything I used was a commercial mix (except pcrete and even then I managed to mess up using electric mixer - don't!). Also, forget the white color - gaps between tiles are now black. Soot only comes easily off the tiles, not off the concrete in between.

      Also, make sure you mount the facade like David suggests. Mine has stainless steel wire embedded in it that goes around the chimney adapter and there is a good size gap between the inner cast and the facade.

      Good luck!

      Click image for larger version  Name:	20200905_131927_HDR.jpg Views:	0 Size:	335.7 KB ID:	433065
      Last edited by sergetania; 11-20-2020, 07:08 PM.

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      • #33
        Maybe a stupid question, but would a entry(oven front) of some nice hard wood be an option or would the wood become to hot and break or even catch fire?

        Of course I would add a heat break of a ~8 mm between the entry and the front arch just an empty space (or some vermiculite barrier) .

        Here a photo of the where the oven front should be made

        Click image for larger version  Name:	for front opt.jpg Views:	0 Size:	172.5 KB ID:	433320
        Last edited by Matthijs; 11-28-2020, 01:08 AM. Reason: dome = entry
        My build 60 cm/24'' homebrew, the Netherlands

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        • #34
          And another one. show the flue gallery. Hope hot air will take this route......

          Click image for larger version

Name:	front opt 2.jpg
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ID:	433325
          My build 60 cm/24'' homebrew, the Netherlands

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          • #35
            Looking great!

            Judging by my oven, a wooden facade will catch fire very quickly. When you are heating up an oven quickly the fire will go into the chimney. It gets hot, very hot very close to where the facade is.

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            • #36
              I messed up my concrete front/arch. Therefore I wanted to try to wooden thing. But indeed there must be a good reason why it is hardly used in any part of the oven. I will do a second attempt with the arch.

              Wood is used in the oven door sometime wrapped with metal. What metal would be possible to use as oven door":

              - galvanized and Brass contain Zinc = very unhealthy
              -RVS = expensive.

              -aluminium = not very nice looking
              -Steel = oxidative
              -Copper = Nice


              The plan is to make it like this. Only a bit more insulating.
              What are the pros and cons with the 3 metals?
              Attached Files
              My build 60 cm/24'' homebrew, the Netherlands

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              • #37
                Sorry, too lazy now to find the pictures of the door I have made, please check in my build thread. I have used the same template I have used to build the entrance for a good fit. It has wooden handles and they are absolutely fine after quite a few high temp cooking sessions. I believe it's essential to use stainless steel because it conducts heat very poorly hence the heat is contained in the oven. I have used almost 2-mm thick steel so it stays perfectly flat. Next day after cooking the oven temp is still high enough for baking and slow cooking. I don't need any more insulation, just the stainless steel. Very happy with my door and it was easy to build partially because I used handles from an old useless grill gadget that was supposed to turn a Weber grill into a pizza oven (it didn't!)
                Last edited by sergetania; 11-30-2020, 12:23 AM.

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