Re: Michael's 42" in Portland
You will likely have to temporarily buttress the sides of the front arch to prevent them from kicking out as you build the chimney but it is perfectly safe to do it same day. If you wait until Sunday you probably wont have to buttress the arch, but if your not confident its easy insurance.
I would wait to start chimney construction until you felt confident to pull your arch form out. I pull my arch forms as soon as the mortar is firm enough to start tucking which can be as quick as 30 minutes after setting but most people like to wait a little longer than that.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Michael's 42" in Portland
Collapse
X
-
Re: Michael's 42" in Portland
Well I finished my dome over the weekend. Unfortunately I didn't read Tscarborough's comments before. So, I have a less then ideal bond pattern on my courses. It's gonna have to be "good enough" because it's done
.
Pictures in a day or two. Chimney design thrusday. Chimney construction this weekend.
Question: If I build up the vent opening and front arch on Saturday, is it safe to build a 3-4ft tall brick chimeny on top of it on Saturday or Sunday? Or should I wait a week for the base vent opening to set?
Leave a comment:
-
Re: Michael's 42" in Portland
Also, best practice says that the smallest unit should be no less than 1/4 of a full unit, so if if takes a smaller piece than this, cut two bricks to fill the (larger) gap to close the course.
Head joint issues in black, small pieces in red.
Don't worry about what you have completed, just work to avoid more as you finish.1 Photo
Leave a comment:
-
Re: Michael's 42" in Portland
This is not a problem, but you should always try and avoid head (vertical) joints extending though 2 courses. You have big and small brick and should always attempt to make the upper joint fall in the middle of the brick below it. This is called "bond", and the goal is called "half bond" meaning that the joint above always falls in the middle of the brick below. This adds a lot of strength to the dome.Last edited by Tscarborough; 08-03-2010, 08:49 PM.
Leave a comment:
-
Re: Michael's 42" in Portland
Looking good. Good luck on the vent opening and chimney. I'm still working out my vent and arch and really impressed even more as I cross this part by those that have come before me. Good luck.
Leave a comment:
-
Re: Michael's 42" in Portland
Two more courses in this past weekend. Looking to skip work on Thursday and Friday to try to get the dome finished and move onto the vent opening and chimney.
Leave a comment:
-
Re: Michael's 42" in Portland
Looks like it is coming along nicely. I'm looking forward to checking out your spreadsheet. I've made some scale drawings, but when I lay everything out it doesn't seem to some out right.
I'm enjoying following your thread. Please keep the pictures and information coming.
Jon
Leave a comment:
-
Re: Michael's 42" in Portland


I'm happy with the arches. I think I calculated how to cut the bricks correctly, but then I miss measured - oh well you know what they say about practice and theory. So I have a mix of cut trapezoids and square bricks. That made the angles come out correct in practice.

Leave a comment:
-
Re: Michael's 42" in Portland
Here's the photos of the next few courses. Things finally went smoothly on course 4. I'm using the tool distance to the top edge of the brick and the angle of the course to set the bricks.
Leave a comment:
-
Re: Michael's 42" in Portland
Had I gotten my spreadsheet working before I started, I would have used an upright soldier course with the top edge cut on an angle to minimize that large gap. Instead I cut a bunch fo brick wedges to fill in the gap.
Leave a comment:
-
Re: Michael's 42" in Portland
Just mortared the arch in place, and cut bricks for 2 more courses. Should get those in tomorrow.
my excell spreadsheet is finally seeming to be correct. If it is still on track after a few more courses I'll clean it up and post it.
Here's a plot of the bricks for each course. This is a visual check that things are calculated correctly. I'm using this to calculate dimmensions for cutting the bricks, and to calculate the length of the tool.
Leave a comment:
-
Re: Michael's 42" in Portland
Here's the photos from my first go with the mortar:


I'm keeping the bricks covered with wet sheets and plastic to help the mortar cure:

Leave a comment:
-
Re: Michael's 42" in Portland
Thank you thank you! Dmun responded soon enough and I got it sponged off last night. It cleaned up easily. I was probably cleaning about 3 hours after I stopped working.
I'm keeping my mortared bricks covered with some old bed sheets soaked in water then covering the whole thing with plastic. I'm trying to keep the mortar moist as it cures. I also soaked my bricks for several hours. Some threads have indicated that soaking for too long can be a problem. I did not have a problem with the bricks being too wet.
Do other people worry about keeping the mortar moist? I think this should reduce the risk of cracks in the mortar.
Leave a comment:
-
Re: Michael's 42" in Portland
They've already said immediately or very soon with a wet sponge. Agreed. A hand held wire brush the next day also works well and is pretty quick. I just spray water on it, brush and rinse. (Part of that is the price for letting my 9-y.o. stuff mortar in a few cracks, but he feels good about helping... LOL!)
I have a circular wire brush I may chuck into my drill to try for final cleaning, but that remains unproven.
Definitely, though, sooner is better.
CB
Leave a comment:
-
Re: Michael's 42" in Portland
It's best if you remove or sponge off excess mortar as you go. I've always removed excess mortar which oozed out by using my finger immediately after joining pieces together, and later followed by a light sponge cleanup.
A caked on mortar on a brick face is a b*tch to clean, especially if you have a large area to clean.
George
Leave a comment:





Leave a comment: