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Do I really need an insulated door?

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  • #16
    Re: Do I really need an insulated door?

    BSO, There have been a few posts on making doors and at least one on what not to do. I think the problem is that everyone that builds has a different inner entry to plug, so the doors always differ. This said, the materials that do best for the inner surface are, Steel and some Aluminum alloys. The reason for metal here is durability to survive the banging around that the doors get.

    After this metal inner layer, the next layer is insulation. This insulation is sometimes loose vermiculite or stonewool or insulating blanket encapsulated inside a metal door. Sometimes vermicrete, or rigid insulating board is sandwiched between inner and outer door surfaces.

    Then some outer surface is attached, this is often metal again. The problem with all of this is the weight and metals transfer heat. Some have tuned these doors by adding braided fiberglass rope to seal the door against the oven. The least amount of air movement in and out of the oven once the door is in place is best for heat retention.

    Because of the weight two handles are attached most often by bolts through the door structure, these bolts of course create a conduit for heat migration but since the doors are heavy the handle connections need structure and running the bolts through the door gives the needed structure.

    In my opinion, this is one area of the oven that needs re-thinking. I think that if the inner door and doorway were prefabricated the door could be hinged and a much cleaner, tighter more efficient seal could be created.

    The logical place for this to happen first is in the modular home ovens. I envision a door or set of two doors that swing clear when the oven is in use and swing shut when we’re done. A real advantage would be that full or nearly full thermal isolation of the oven can be had and pizza temps day after day would not require nearly the fuel that is needed for current ovens.

    I can imagine leaving the oven deck at 850F the night before and coming in the next night and having it at 750F. These sorts of thermal efficiencies would easily allow the normal household electrical system to maintain a pizza oven..


    Chris

    PS I need to really insert that I understand that the WFO Pizza oven cooks not only by the stored heat in the floor but also the by the affects of radiant and convection heating. An electric oven doesn’t completely emulate a WFO and it would really need some engineering to accomplish an electric oven that could compare.
    Last edited by SCChris; 07-02-2010, 08:09 AM.

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    • #17
      Re: Do I really need an insulated door?

      I'm in door making mode myself, and am thinking simple and with materials I already have on hand. For my inner door, I like the old world idea of a thick slab of hardwood (2" mesquite), possibly soaked in water before use to help resist the effects of heat and to give a quick injection of moisture into the baking.

      For the outer door, a piece of 1/4 inch plate with some support brackets welded on the bottom to hold it up and a couple of handles...also an air space on the bottom, maybe an inch and a half or two.

      I sure they won't be my only attempt at doors. Looking forward to hearing about other ideas and designs.

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      • #18
        Re: Do I really need an insulated door?

        Hey, Fx.
        You could take a FB like metal door and High Temp silicone or High Temp Epoxy, HTS or HTE, a 1" or 2" piece of Insulatin board to the inside. I know that my door/IB board never is beyond 100F on the outside and this relates to the ambient temp of the entry not the internal temp of the oven, so something like a HTS or HTE should bond things.

        Chris

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        • #19
          Re: Do I really need an insulated door?

          I have a lot of insulation blanket left. If I sandwich 3-4" of insulation in between two pieces of SS will that work? I will have a wooden door made to put on the outside but I'm just saying for the insulation part, will that work? I went to home depot and the silver high temp tape only goes up to 200F, is that high enough or would I need to get something that withstands more heat?

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          • #20
            Re: Do I really need an insulated door?

            The tape isn't going to work for you so a high temp something is what you?re going to need to find.

            At the top of my doorway the surface brick temps run higher than the oven floor. It makes sense really, the exhaust gas can and does run over 1000F and the brick that these gasses flow over will heat to those levels. These high temps span the thickness of the door in the top of the arch and entry to the flue, and because the outside of the door is often built for outside of the oven temps it can suffer and breakdown here.

            The blanket is going to be great as long as you can contain it in some kind of structure.

            And any door is better than no door. If it comes down to using a wooden door soaked in water and waiting for the temps drop before using it, this is how it was done and is still done by many.


            Chris

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            • #21
              Re: Do I really need an insulated door?

              Originally posted by texassourdough View Post
              Hi Les!

              The one factor you fail to mention is that in Carson City your daytime temps can be 242 degrees F! (Okay, I am exaggerating, but...) )

              Actually I am impressed by your profile but I suspect your oven is also dryer than most. Mine gets close in a drought but...not when it is wet!

              Thanks for putting up the profile!
              I checked out the weather for that day. The low was 36 deg and the high was 69, mean temp was 55.5. Sounds about right for April - this year I was probably shoveling snow.
              Check out my pictures here:
              http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f8/les-build-4207.html

              If at first you don't succeed... Skydiving isn't for you.

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              • #22
                Re: Do I really need an insulated door?

                George

                Since you have a beveled entryway, you may want to consider a door similar to this. It is a piece of thick aluminum about the thickness used on road signs (in fact, mine stared out life as a "DO NOT ENTER" sign). The ends are bent back at the same angle as the entry way bevel so it fits snugly and, as a bonus , is free standing. I pop riveted on a bit of aluminum channel from a recent soffet job and backed it with 1/2 inch insulation salvaged from an old stove. The handle is a wooden marshal town handle with "stand off" mounting to prevent it from catching fire. Also add an recycled barbecue temperature gauge.

                I have been using it for a number of years and it works great. The whole thing weighs 2 lbs 15 oz.
                Last edited by Neil2; 07-02-2010, 05:09 PM.

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                • #23
                  Re: Do I really need an insulated door?

                  What materials is it made of? It looks like copper on the inside with aluminum out and maybe something sandwiched in between. It doesn't look too heavy.. Tell us more George..

                  C

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                  • #24
                    Re: Do I really need an insulated door?

                    Great info on this thread Chris.

                    Regarding the aluminum tape: I've seen high heat aluminum tape at Pep Boys. I think they use it for mufflers. I was going to buy some to see how it works.

                    I do like Neils door too, something to think about.

                    I too am going to try to sandwitch 2-3" of left over FB blanket into a 1.5" or 2" metal door, with 1.5" or 2" bolts between them (don't know the mechanical-tool-guy term ) so the 2 pieces of metal are rigid and apart from each other. Then bolt a wood door to the outer metal.

                    What to do about the side and top edge: I was going to use fireplace mortar with aluminum tape to enclose the fiber blanket (don't want that stuff exposed).

                    I also am toying with this idea:


                    I've seen something called a "seamer" online that was 3" wide and 1.5" deep that should bend the 24 gauge stuff you buy at Lowes or HD. After bending the 2" "TABS" over the top of the door, I thought of high-heat fireplace/flue glue in a tube to close up the seems (I don't do welding or cake decorating)

                    If others have tried it or something obviously wont work, let me know, I have more sketchup time than brains. -Dino
                    "Life is a banquet and most poor sons-of-bitches are starving to death." -Auntie Mame

                    View My Picasa Web Album UPDATED oct
                    http://picasaweb.google.com/Dino747?feat=directlink


                    My Oven Costs Spreadsheet
                    http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?k...BF19875Rnp84Uw


                    My Oven Thread
                    http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f8/d...arts-5883.html

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                    • #25
                      Re: Do I really need an insulated door?

                      No reason to overthink this door thing. Simple is usually best. Unless, of course you want to build a metal masterpiece.

                      I think if you want metal on the hot face the thinner the better as the less mass to heat and transfer temp.

                      Foil works fine, even aluminum (for 20+ months anyway ). When I need to replace my foil I will go with stainless foil, but that is about all I would change with mine. I have 3 screws embedded in the perlcrete, they don't conduct any appreciable heat since they are insulated inside the perlcrete.

                      For those concerned with weight, I just weighed the door at 14.5 lbs.
                      Last edited by wlively; 07-02-2010, 04:30 PM.
                      Wade Lively

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                      • #26
                        Re: Do I really need an insulated door?

                        Hey Dino, Thank FX for the thread. I'm wondering if what might be cool would be a thread dedicated to mug shots of doors.
                        50 words or less.

                        Door in place
                        Oven entry
                        Inside door surface
                        Outside door surface
                        Side door surface

                        Mine would look like this.

                        My current door is a 22” inch wide piece of 2” thick Calcium Silicate rigid insulation board.

                        The arch was cut using a band saw with a standard wood blade. The insulating board was attached to a swing arm and the distance to the blade set to the radius of the arch.

                        The oven entry has a 1 inch by 1 inch rebate cut into the brick to accept the door.

                        Chris
                        Last edited by SCChris; 07-02-2010, 05:36 PM.

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                        • #27
                          Re: Do I really need an insulated door?

                          Originally posted by Neil2 View Post
                          George

                          Since you have a beveled entryway, you may want to consider a door similar to this. It is a piece of thick aluminum about the thickness used on road signs (in fact, mine stared out life as a "DO NOT ENTER" sign). The ends are bent back at the same angle as the entry way bevel so it fits snugly and, as a bonus , is free standing. I pop riveted on a bit of aluminum channel from a recent soffet job and backed it with 1/2 inch insulation salvaged from an old stove. The handle is a wooden marshal town handle with "stand off" mounting to prevent it from catching fire. Also add an recycled barbecue temperature gauge.

                          I have been using it for a number of years and it works great. The whole thing weighs 2 lbs 15 oz.
                          Thanks Neil, I think I'm going to make something similar to yours. It is the most practical shape for the style of entry I have. Except for the handle, I have most materials already on hand.
                          This will be Thursday's project.

                          George
                          George

                          My 34" WFO build

                          Weber 22-OTG / Ugly Drum Smoker / 34" WFO

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                          • #28
                            Re: Do I really need an insulated door?

                            Here is my 1st attempt at doors. The inner door is just a slab of pecan (I mentioned using mesquite but didn't have a piece big enough). The outer door is a piece of plate (no insulation)...the air vent on the bottom can be adjusted using a brick to block part of the opening ;] The handles are scrap rebar and the wood is from the cutoff of a too long handle on the turning peel.

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