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36" Pompeii in DC

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  • rsandler
    replied
    Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

    I'm starting to think about tiling the exterior of my dome. I was originally thinking of doing a mosaic design, with some trepidation as I have very little artistic talent. Then I happened across some very nice looking slate tile while wandering through my local home depot. Mosaic artistry may be beyond me, but fitting rectangles onto a hemisphere is more within my power. The only question is how to put them on, and whether they will stand up to the weather.

    In principle, slate ought to be impermeable enough to be frost resistant. In practice, many slate tiles seem to be rather more absorbant, I guess because they are actually shale or quartzite? I picked up a 4-pack of tiles this weekend and tested them by soaking in a pan of water. One tile absorbed less than .2% of its weight in water. Another, which seemed to have pocked areas on the underside, absorbed more like 1-1.2%. The standard for exterior tile seems to be .3-1%. I'm thinking this may be close enough. Worst case scenario, they're cheap, and easy to replace if one pops off.

    Questions: Would it be possible and desirable to lay the slate tiles in an overlapping manner, much like slate shingles? See attached pictures.

    Also, I have never worked with thinset before. Do I need to make the surface flatter before tiling (e.g., by applying another coat of stucco?). How big of a tile can I reasonably apply? (I'm fairly sure that the 6" tiles in the picture would be too large).

    Still waiting for my steel to arrive, and hoping the existing door doesn't crumble or burst into flames in the meanwhile...

    Leave a comment:


  • kanoer54
    replied
    Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

    chip, thanks for the string. great information. also saw a string on '2 ways not to build a door' which had good information also. I'm a ways from needing a door but will bookmark these strings.
    thanks...jon

    Leave a comment:


  • rsandler
    replied
    Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

    Well, decided to order a 2x2 sheet of 14ga mild steel from OnlineMetals. The shipping is more than the metal, but it's still not too bad. Cutting apart the dryer door and grinding off the paint seemed like too much work, and I just don't have time for any of the other (surely effective) scrounging methods. I'll make a new inner face for the door, and at least a "collar" of sorts to protect the lip of my wood face from any more burning.

    Leave a comment:


  • mrchipster
    replied
    Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

    Originally posted by kanoer54 View Post
    without tearing it apart to measure, it appears to be about 1 to 1-1/8 inch thick. i really like your pyrex lid idea. i will keep that in mind when i am to the door build. that looks like the way to go. i hope to start my WFO in the next week or so and as a newbie will be asking lots of questions.
    Jon,

    There is a string I started about this window door at

    http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/...oor-18303.html

    Feel free to go there for additional details.

    Chip

    Leave a comment:


  • kanoer54
    replied
    Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

    without tearing it apart to measure, it appears to be about 1 to 1-1/8 inch thick. i really like your pyrex lid idea. i will keep that in mind when i am to the door build. that looks like the way to go. i hope to start my WFO in the next week or so and as a newbie will be asking lots of questions.

    Leave a comment:


  • Laurentius
    replied
    Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

    Originally posted by kanoer54 View Post
    a dryer is a good source of free metal and less to haul out of your basement. if you do decide to use your dryer door, it would be a good idea to grind off all of the baked enamel paint before you start bending and fabrication. i think the baked enamel is only on the outside. the inside is usually just a primer or lesser grade baked enamel. but otherwise a free source of good metal.

    on the stove door idea, i have an ancient self cleaning oven with a SS door and was thinking about re-using the door and glass for a WFO door but not sure of the temperature aspect. i know the self cleaning feature heats up to around 650F or so, but not sure it would work on a WFO door. any thoughts or ideas from anyone?

    ( i have been following this site for a couple months and am working on acquiring all the materials, IT, wet saw with miter, arch templates, etc. Have been working on the plans and am really anxious to get started in the next couple weeks.)
    Hi Canoe,

    If it's a self cleaning oven door, it might be insulated, how thick is it. Post photos.

    Leave a comment:


  • mrchipster
    replied
    Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

    Originally posted by kanoer54 View Post
    on the stove door idea, i have an ancient self cleaning oven with a SS door and was thinking about re-using the door and glass for a WFO door but not sure of the temperature aspect. i know the self cleaning feature heats up to around 650F or so, but not sure it would work on a WFO door. any thoughts or ideas from anyone?
    The glass would be great for a baking door but I would use fully insulated for trying to retain heat. I used a Pyrex frying pan lid as the window for my baking door. Baking temps (below 600) seem to be no problem for the glass.

    I do not use it when there is a live fire.

    Chip
    Last edited by mrchipster; 05-21-2013, 12:57 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • kanoer54
    replied
    Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

    a dryer is a good source of free metal and less to haul out of your basement. if you do decide to use your dryer door, it would be a good idea to grind off all of the baked enamel paint before you start bending and fabrication. i think the baked enamel is only on the outside. the inside is usually just a primer or lesser grade baked enamel. but otherwise a free source of good metal.

    on the stove door idea, i have an ancient self cleaning oven with a SS door and was thinking about re-using the door and glass for a WFO door but not sure of the temperature aspect. i know the self cleaning feature heats up to around 650F or so, but not sure it would work on a WFO door. any thoughts or ideas from anyone?

    ( i have been following this site for a couple months and am working on acquiring all the materials, IT, wet saw with miter, arch templates, etc. Have been working on the plans and am really anxious to get started in the next couple weeks.)

    Leave a comment:


  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

    Some SSs are slightly magnetic and will rust, 316 is not magnetic and will not rust either. But any SS would work and even CS is a good option. Scounging, if you are up to it, is like a treasure hunt sometimes. I picked up a side panel of 316 SS on a medical cabinet for free and using it for my door.

    Leave a comment:


  • rsandler
    replied
    Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

    Chip: Heh, maybe I'll give it a magnet test when I get home.

    DJ: Online metals might be an option, though the shipping costs more than the metal for a 2'x2' piece :P.

    Kanoer54: Hmm, good point about the enamel. Wonder if I could find one of these guys that picks up scrap metal and offer to trade? Trouble with waiting for a large item pickup day is that I really need some kind of solution, if only a quick fix, ASAP, as I want to keep using my oven in the meanwhile, and my cracked door is worrying me...

    Leave a comment:


  • kanoer54
    replied
    Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

    if you live in an area which has BIG item trash pickup day, perhaps you could find a stainless steel stove front...with high temp glass included. or if you have a place you can take recycled plastic, glass, etc. they might also have a piece of stainless you could get for nothing. i'd be careful of a dryer front as these typically are baked enamel steel designed for light dings and easy cleaning, not high temperatures. you could have baked enamel popping of in your food.

    Leave a comment:


  • deejayoh
    replied
    Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

    I would use at least 16 gauge. There are probably several metal resellers in the area. There is one called Potomac Steel that I found without looking too hard. Or you could order from Online Metals, although I am not sure about the shipping as their location is right down the hill from me so I get the metal will-call

    Leave a comment:


  • mrchipster
    replied
    Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

    Originally posted by rsandler View Post
    Hmm, maybe I'll look a little more for plain steel. Best price I could find for a piece of stainless was an offcut from a local fabricator $35, and would require figuring out how to actually get there during business hours (a huge pain). Lowes seems to have a 2'x3' sheet of 28ga plain steel, but I feel like that's probably going to be too floppy--same problem as I had with the aluminum.

    This is making me tempted to take my angle grinder to the old, unused gas dryer in my basement which came with the house and has remained because it probably won't fit out the door...probably isn't steel anyway.
    If a refrigerator magnet sticks to it it is steel.

    Chip

    Leave a comment:


  • rsandler
    replied
    Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

    Hmm, maybe I'll look a little more for plain steel. Best price I could find for a piece of stainless was an offcut from a local fabricator $35, and would require figuring out how to actually get there during business hours (a huge pain). Lowes seems to have a 2'x3' sheet of 28ga plain steel, but I feel like that's probably going to be too floppy--same problem as I had with the aluminum.

    This is making me tempted to take my angle grinder to the old, unused gas dryer in my basement which came with the house and has remained because it probably won't fit out the door...probably isn't steel anyway.

    Leave a comment:


  • mrchipster
    replied
    Re: 36" Pompeii in DC

    Originally posted by deejayoh View Post
    There is no need to use stainless. Mild steel works just fine, and is probably cheaper than SS needles. It will cost you less than $30, and you can probably scrounge something even cheaper
    I agree just make sure it is not galvanized and not painted.

    Chip

    Leave a comment:

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