My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

[deejayoh]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

I used this stuff. It is ceramic fiber, has held up really well. No problems at all

Kaowool Caulk Details

[kbartman]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

I think it would work. I have seen where others have used similar. Look back again though, if you will to my other post. The link for page 10/post 93 in it shows how I did my floor break. I used 2 runs of a 3/4" flat gasket material. That left about 1/4" of space at the top that I have let fill in with ash that hopefully separates the fibers from the floor surface.

Gulf, I went back and read about your floor thermal break. I missed it the first time. I need to take more time reading with wealth of info here on the forum. I find myself skimming over the posts and missing the details. I have some left over fiber banding material that I used around the over floor next to the dome wall that should work. I wondering how is yours performing and if you have taken any differential readings?

I used this stuff. It is ceramic fiber, has held up really well. No problems at all

Kaowool Caulk Details

Dee,
Thanks for the info I appreciate and value your opinion. How much did you end up using?

I'm also wondering if your and others have compared the performance of the different type of floor thermal breaks?

[brickie in oz]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

I'm also wondering if your and others have compared the performance of the different type of floor thermal breaks?

I did a comparison for the inner and outer areas near my TB's, you will just have to find them on the forum, they are here somewhere......

There is a very noticeable difference so the TB's are worth the effort to conserve heat.

[deejayoh]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

I used a tube of the Caulk, along with CF rope

I haven't done any comparison of different types of floor (or any other) thermal breaks. I only have one oven

In terms of impact, I think the break between your dome and arch is more important that the floor break. Heat rising and all, you will lose more heat through your arch if it is connected to your dome than you will through your floor. The floor is the first part of the oven to cool so I would worry less about that break. A simple piece of metal tubing is fine (and ignore bad math of others talking about the difference in conductivity. It's just two thin planes of metal that can conduct heat...)

[UtahBeehiver]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

KB,

I used Uni Extreme high temp caulk. It is made by McGill Air Seal and contains no hazardous stuff although it was used in an area that does not see food contact. Like DJ I stuff the air gap with ceramic rope and caulked over. I have a floor thermal break, SS tubing, does it make a difference, I don't know since I can't compare as if brick were there.

[cobblerdave]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

Gudday
I have no heat break myself but I do see them as a good idea especially in colder climates than my own. I just thought it was timely to point out that a certain amount of the heat in the entrance is radient. That is radiates through the air from the oven itself and that would account for some of the temperature measured here rather than that coming through the heat break itself.
Regards dave

[kbartman]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

Thanks all,
I been working 12hr days all weekend and have not had time to respond. I appreciated all the good information. I have the next few days off and hope to get some work done on the oven.

Thanks for the info on the sealers. Great discussing going here on the thermal floor break. Good point Dave, on radiant heat, which I had not considered in measuring the performance. I like Gulf's idea and simplicity of the ceramic band. I will have to do more digging on the forum. I need to complete the outer arch and vent before I can get back to the floor thermal break. I was hoping to find some good performance data on different ways and compare. This would help me with my indecisiveness.

Thanks again for all the help. I got to get some work done on the WFO!!!

[kbartman]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

I completed my outer arch/vent while I contemplated the floor thermal break. I need your all's help deciding which way to go. We still have some time to decide while I remove the arch support and work on the vent area floor. I was hoping someone might fire up their oven and take some readings with there IR temperature gun on each side of their floor thermal break and compare.

Anyway I decided to ditch the vent offset and took your all's advice that this would be a weak point. Plus the added complication in brick cutting, I choose a simpler version. I hope you all agree and approve with my solution, I'm done and hope it's sufficient.

[stonecutter]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

I missed why you wanted to off-set the throat. Does it have something to do with how you want the chimney to exit your roof?

As for the thermal break, it's a simple easy thing to incorporate it. Maybe you need it, maybe you don't...but why not.

[david s]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

A thermal break can also act as an expansion joint if made of a flexible material. This can be useful in reducing cracks to the outside decorative arch by both reducing the temperature differential and physical pressure from expansion of the inner parts of the oven. Think twice about using a heavy, dense, conductive material in this space.
Regarding the radiant heat from the oven mouth, I have a sheet of 500 x500 x 0.55 mm stainless as a landing in front of the decorative arch, completely outside the oven, on my mobile oven and when it's really cranking the radiant heat ( that Dave spoke about) is so strong and the stainless so conductive, that you can't hold your hand on it.

[kbartman]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

I missed why you wanted to off-set the throat. Does it have something to do with how you want the chimney to exit your roof?

As for the thermal break, it's a simple easy thing to incorporate it. Maybe you need it, maybe you don't...but why not.

Thanks Guys,

The offset was my hair brain idea to allow for more oven landing counter. By pushing the flue back a couple of inches allowing oven face to also be push back giving me more counter........ My original plan was to leave the lintel of the pool wall and use it to support the chimney, with the flue in front of the lintel. I had added additional insulation under the oven, which push the oven dome and insulation into the lintel making me revise my plan. Now I looking for suggestion on how to support the rear of the chimney. I have a few ideas but have not finalized them.

As far a the floor thermal break it seams too me the stainless tubing is the popular option. Although I will probably incorporate Gulf's idea into mine and place some ceramic band on the oven side. I think that will give me the best of both worlds.

My plan for the oven counter is to pour a additional 4 1/2 inches to bring the front of the stand to within 2 inches of oven floor. Incorporated the reinforcement for the counter and any needed chimney reinforcement. My plan is polished concrete counter. Not sure how much I can over hang the oven base, still researching and looking for suggestions.

[stonecutter]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

Thanks Guys,

The offset was my hair brain idea to allow for more oven landing counter. By pushing the flue back a couple of inches allowing oven face to also be push back giving me more counter........ My original plan was to leave the lintel of the pool wall and use it to support the chimney, with the flue in front of the lintel. I had added additional insulation under the oven, which push the oven dome and insulation into the lintel making me revise my plan. Now I looking for suggestion on how to support the rear of the chimney. I have a few ideas but have not finalized them.



My plan is polished concrete counter. Not sure how much I can over hang the oven base, still researching and looking for suggestions.

Set a level brick course above your arch to place the flue.

The more you overhang. the thicker the counter should be, and the more reinforcement it should have. I don't see why you couldn't have a 12" overhang with a 2" countertop...but specific questions get better answers.

[kbartman]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

Set a level brick course above your arch to place the flue.

The more you overhang. the thicker the counter should be, and the more reinforcement it should have. I don't see why you couldn't have a 12" overhang with a 2" countertop...but specific questions get better answers.

Yes my plan is to set a level course of bricks on top the arch for the flue. seems like a weak point just mortaring the bricks to the top of the arch. Although it looks to be common practice here on the forum, or did I miss some thing? Its a little late now but in hind sight I was thinking I should have tied those into the arch somehow.

When I get closer to preparing for the counter top I'll try to be more specific in my questions.

My biggest concern is supporting the back side of the chimney above the dome. There are many ways to skin that cat. I'm considering forming and pouring a arched lintel. I have 5 inches between the inner arch and top of pool wall. I want a minimum of three inches of insulation. That only leaves two inches for support at top dead center of oven. Not sure if that will be sufficient? Another thought is 3"x4" x 5/16" angle iron not sure if the brick could be set directly on top the angle iron? I'm only guessing at this point looking for different ideas and suggestions.

Pic #1 shows the area of concern.
Pic #2 shows area for the poured arch.

My goal is keep the gable end of the low profile dome enclosure hidden behind the chimney, and pool wall if possible.

Thanks again for everyone's help

[stonecutter]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

Yes my plan is to set a level course of bricks on top the arch for the flue. seems like a weak point just mortaring the bricks to the top of the arch. Although it looks to be common practice here on the forum, or did I miss some thing? Its a little late now but in hind sight I was thinking I should have tied those into the arch somehow.

When I get closer to preparing for the counter top I'll try to be more specific in my questions.

My biggest concern is supporting the back side of the chimney above the dome. There are many ways to skin that cat. I'm considering forming and pouring a arched lintel. I have 5 inches between the inner arch and top of pool wall. I want a minimum of three inches of insulation. That only leaves two inches for support at top dead center of oven. Not sure if that will be sufficient? Another thought is 3"x4" x 5/16" angle iron not sure if the brick could be set directly on top the angle iron? I'm only guessing at this point looking for different ideas and suggestions.

Pic #1 shows the area of concern.
Pic #2 shows area for the poured arch.

My goal is keep the gable end of the low profile dome enclosure hidden behind the chimney, and pool wall if possible.

Thanks again for everyone's help

Mortaring brick to the arch is only weak if you don't bond the brick correctly.

I'm not exactly sure what you mean by support on the back of the arch. Are you saying that there is 2" of the arch in which to set your flue on the back of the throat? If so, that is plenty enough for what you need.

[kanoer54]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

KB,
if your pool cage framing isn't in the way of your proposed flue location, could you cut the bond beam out where it is in conflict with the flue and let the cantilevered ends set on masonry built up on the dome? if the length of the cantilever isn't too long you may just let it cantilever out there without any support. is this a block bond beam with rebar or a cast in place bond beam?

just another option i thought i'd toss out to consider.
jon