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Poured the base slab and a small pad by my steps yesterday. Used the colored and imprinted concrete method. Only a small bit of it will be seen on the base slab, that's why only a small bit of it is done. It will only be seen at the entrance to the "wood storage area" and the rest is covered up by block work,etc. The front face will be made to look like the top, after I strip the forms. This is not the finished look, but close enough to give an idea of what it will look like later. I had my neighbor stop by and he wanted to play around with making the "joints" in the slab. Since most of it will be hidden, I let him play around w/it. Next step is to strip the forms in a day or so and do the front vertical area to make it match the top. After that's all done, I start w/the block foundation. I'll take photos when I can.
I can see where you would. You have alot more area to cover. If I could have made my pad on flat ground, I may have gotten away w/a yard or a bit more. Either way, there is no way I'd mix all that by hand or even w/a mixer on site. The mix I will get on a truck will be superior to anything that could be mixed on site. Plus, when I'm done, no mess. I'm using what we usually refer to as "pump mix", which is what they use when concrete is pumped. The reason I use that is because, for one, it's a better mix. Secondly, it works much better for the coloring and impressions I will be making. Kind of like what is commonly called stamped concrete. It costs a bit more, but it's a good strong mix and more user friendly when doing that type of work.
Did some more prep work today w/the slab. Just have to cut a few pieces of rebar, tie them up and add a few braces to the formwork and I'm ready to go.
Thanks. I am looking forward to getting back to it. Hope to have it poured real soon. I'm having the concrete delivered in a mixer. Way too much to do by hand. I'll need a yard and a half. Then it's on to the block work.
Had a bit of time and some decent weather, so I began prepping for my slab. Hope to get it done soon and poured. I will post more photos when I get it all ready.
After talking it over w/my better half and doing some layout at the site, we have decided to make it a 32", leaning towards a Neapolitan design. W/limited space, the smaller size helps and it would be plenty big enough for our intended use.
Thanks, AT. I plan on around a 34-36" oven. It just doesn't seem to me to be enough room, especially for the vent landing. The oven landing is more of a personal preference, I guess, whereas the vent landing is more of a structural thing. I guess I'm going to keep looking at other builds on here and see what looks good. All I'm doing now is planning my slab sizes. Thanks again, for your opinion and the compliment.
Like so many things the answer is - "it depends". It depends on the size of the oven you are planning to build and the type (geometry) of the chimney material you are planning to use. If you are building a 42" oven an 8" chimney vent is recommended - and your instincts would be correct - a 6" vent landing would be too small. If you are building a 36" or smaller oven 6" might be ok (assuming you design a good transition from the vent chamber to chimney).
I have been working on my drawings for my hearth slab. I wanted to ask of few of you experienced builders if you were happy leaving 6" for a vent landing and 12" for an oven landing, per FB plans. Or, "if you had it to do again", what would you change in this area, if anything? That seems a bit tight to me. Not being able to see it in front of me, but just in a drawing, it just seems tight. Any pros/cons to those measurements? I am tight on my space, so I am doing what I can to keep it as small as I can, but I have the room, if need be, to expand forward a bit. Just wanted some experienced input.
The forms must have to be pulled off soon after a firm set up?
Not really. The day of pouring, all you have to do is the top surface. I prefer pulling the forms the next day, while the concrete is still green, since the sides get parged w/some color hardener mix, then the joints are worked in to match the top. I just round off the edges w/a concrete edger the day of the pour, then blend the edge the next day w/the parging, etc. In other words, the sides get a coating of mix, then the joints worked into that, imitating a joint. Working w/the release agent makes it all come together. Hope this makes sense. When I do the slab pour, I'll post photos. It really is fairly simple, although I may make it sound complicated.
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