Build started on 36" Pompeii in Socal

[oblertone]

Re: Build started on 36" Pompeii in Socal

I 'cured' my oven without insulation; actually I used it for a year before adding insulation, render, vent arch and flue but logically leaving it bare must allow the water to be driven out more effectively. You just have to ensure it doesn't get rained on during the process.

[NCMan]

Re: Build started on 36" Pompeii in Socal

That is a long standing debate on here....how to dry an oven. True, it's done both ways. Successfully. I dried mine out w/the insulation off and it did just fine. I will continue to do it that way in the future on other ovens. The trick is to go slow and easy.

[kallipigous]

Re: Build started on 36" Pompeii in Socal

I think I'll do it without the insulation if only so I can see what's happening to the outside of my mortar. The weather got a lot hotter hotter yesterday suddenly as we were adding a further skim of mortar to the outside of the dome (left over mortar) and it left hairline cracks over a lot of the dome as it dried. This is probably because it was hotter but also because as it was just plain mortar it didn't have the outside of the oven to give it structure ( I figure). The places where it was added to the outside of the brick itself is fine - it's the thicker areas that have these little shrinkage cracks. As a result I'm going to watch the outside very carefully as I dry. Has anyone had any success with using briquettes to cure? It occurs to me it's likely to be easier to control. If so what was the process?

[Gulf]

Re: Build started on 36" Pompeii in Socal

............. Has anyone had any success with using briquettes to cure? It occurs to me it's likely to be easier to control. If so what was the process?

It worked just fine for me. I used to refer folks back to Karangi Dude's thread for the process. But, sadly it is no longer there. I made mention of it a few days ago on Randy's thread. I'll copy it over.

For the first drying fires, charcoal briquettes or lump (lump burns hotter) is a little more forgiving. They can be started in a chimney and then placed around on the oven floor. No charcoal starter fluid, though . Paper only .

I used a c-clamp to temporarily attach a charcoal starter chimney to an old broken boat oar. A 3/4" ripping would work. It wouldn't be too hard to attach one to an old broom handle. I lit each chimney in the entry with paper. When it was going good I just slid it through the door and dumped it where I wanted it. The chimney will barely fit through my door so it may have to be tilted for ovens with lower doors heights. It could probably be started on a portable charcoal grill and just shoveled in to the oven. I started by placing the first load in the very center. I just worked my out of from the middle of the oven towards the dome walls with successive placements. I would add a chimney full back to the middle from time to time as it burned down. It was an all day affair. If I remember right, I had bought 3 double bags of 20 lb Kinsford briquettes that was on sale at Lowes. I don't think that I got very far into the third double bag. Toward the end of the day it took less and less charcoal to maintain or raise the temperature. Again, it worked pretty good for me. But, I did not begin the charcoal drying right after laying the dome brick. Due to work and other projects, it was several months before I began the process.

I hope this helps.

[kallipigous]

Re: Build started on 36" Pompeii in Socal

Thank you yes that's very helpful. I've got two weeks away coming up
So I'll try when I get back. In the meantime I suspect the California sun will move it along.

[kallipigous]

I'm half way through the curing process now. A loose brick in the inner arch so far but that seems to be all. Everything else seems reasonably solid.

For those people who used the duratech plate did what did you use to stick it to the brick chimney arch. Bolts?

[gastagg]

I'm using the plate as well and am planning to use those blue masonry fasterners after drilling a pilot hole. Any tried-and-true methods on fastening that plate to the arch?

[kallipigous]

I used a couple of firebrick splits and just drilled pilot holes through. Then I screwed the blue screws in and they seemed to hold fast.

[kallipigous]

Here are some pictures taken with my Flir thermal imaging camera for the iphone. You can see how the calsil stops the heat from transfering very quickly and also how the airgap between the outer arch and the dome really stops the heat transferring across. You can see the double lined chimney staying cool while the top gets nice and hot. I got up to 700 today so if it cools down without collapsing I think we're on the right path.

[Gulf]

Kallipigous,

That's . It just stands to reason, that heat breaks work!

[kallipigous]

It's amazing how clear it is though. Falls right off.

[RandyJ]

I don't have the FLIR but can see the same thing with my IR thermometer. Nice to know it works though.

Randy

[NCMan]

Kallipigous,

That's . It just stands to reason, that heat breaks work!

And to all the builders/naysayers that "need proof" that heat breaks work......well, there you go.

[Greenman]

One for the heat break enthusiasts! There was never doubt but nothing like a bit of tech support.

[kallipigous]

The flir has been really fun when doing the insulation too. I can see immediately if there's a leak anywhere and where the heat is rolling around the outside and front.