MY NEW 42"OVEN BUILD.

[ivancito]

I have decided on my own to proceed using shims to fill in the large gap. I have searched thru other builds and could not find a clear answer to my question I posted above and no other forum members have
chimed in to offer advise as of this morning, I want to get an early start on my build. Hopefully all goes well. Wish me luck!
Ivan

[ivancito]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n387460[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]n387461[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]n387462[/ATTACH] Fellas I need help. My soldier course is done(no angle on top of bricks) and I dry fitted a half brick on my first ring and was surprised by the large gap of 1 3/8
I uploaded 3 pics to ask for your advise on how to proceed.
#1.Do I use a shim to pick up the space and fill with homebrew?
#2. Do I cut the brick at the slope angle?
#3. Leave it as is and fill gap with homebrew.
Please chime in guys, I intend on starting mortaring tomorrow morning.
thanks
Ivan.

[ivancito]

I was able to get the fire clay from my mason supplier. Looks like I can start my dome with the homebrew. I hope the cost savings will be worth it since the mason supplier said nothing beats heatstop50 and that my oven would crack if I use the homebrew mix. I trust the members of this forum and the vast amounts of info on building these ovens. Wish me luck.
thanks all.
Ivancito

[ivancito]

Well, after laying the floor and dry fitting soldier course and also cutting 50 bricks in half I only ended up with about 1 cup of fire clay. Seems like I will have to start my dome with Firestop50 mortar.
Local mason supply has it for $59.00 a 50lb. bag. Do I need to just add water to this product or should I use it to replace the fireclay ingredient in the homebrew mix?

[JRPizza]

Here is how I set up my HF saw. I placed a piece of scrap plywood under the saw such that it was a little short in front, allowing me to use the tray without a plug and drain in a bucket, and a little long in the back, so a bucket of fresh water could sit with the pump in it using the tubing that came with the saw. The bucket in the front kept me from having to pull the tray out frequently to dump the brick water, and the one in the back kept the water at the level of the saw making it easier on the pump.

[ivancito]

No, you do not need to drill a hole, just buy some plastic water supply line, at any big box store, long enough to take the pump out of the water tray and into a Homer bucket set off to the side of the saw. You fill the bucket with fresh water periodically and this keeps the pump from clogging up with all the brick sediment if you left it in the factory tray.

Ooohh OK I get it now. thanks UtahBeehiver.

[UtahBeehiver]

No, you do not need to drill a hole, just buy some plastic water supply line, at any big box store, long enough to take the pump out of the water tray and into a Homer bucket set off to the side of the saw. You fill the bucket with fresh water periodically and this keeps the pump from clogging up with all the brick sediment if you left it in the factory tray.

[ivancito]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n387288[/ATTACH] I got a lot done in just a few hours yesterday, Insblock 19 is down and my floor pattern is almost complete, just have to get back to the forum is see where the herringbone pattern stops at the front entry or continues to the outer arch entry.
Ivan

[ivancito]

Woot Woot!! My first brick cut , feeling super excited finally back at it.
Ivan.

[ivancito]

Finally bought my HF brick saw, paid $230. with a 20% off discount coupon. Instead of buying a stand I had an old camping grill with a sturdy stand on wheels that worked just fine.
Can you guys give me any info on setting the pump in a bucket method, will I have to drill a hole in the water basin?
thanks
Ivancito

[JRPizza]

Ivancito can you unscrew your L bracket from the end of your rod? I think when you get to the upper courses you might need a smaller bracket - I did as the bricks tend to get smaller. I also made an attachment to hold a pencil which can help laying out arch bricks and marking your floor.

[deejayoh]

Looks good. Your dome won't be exactly round if the IT pivot isn't dead center and floor level - but close enough! You can probably adjust the height but the offset in the wheel gives a little flat spot at the top.

[ivancito]

Hi Everyone,
I have my IT built and was just trying to adjust it to proper dome height and correct radius of 21". My plan is to recess the caster below the brick and attach it to the FB boards because the center of the caster is the exact thickness of my bricks, thus allowing for a round dome.I hope! Any comments or concerns would be greatly appreciated, as soon as I can find the designer to this style IT I will thank him, I think it was texman.
Thanks
Ivan

[ivancito]

Nice start Ivan. This site is great,

I've got my walls up and ready for the weekend to pour the floating slab and I am now thinking too that I should probably wait until spring time to start laying some brick. I'm in NJ and will only have the weekends to work on it too.

Good luck and keep posting

Hi, just wondering how your build is going. I was able to find the INSBLOCK19 and bought some fire bricks, just waiting on buying my saw. Keep posting.
Ivan

[ivancito]

I think most of your dementions look pretty good. Your door may be a little wide but doable. The one I may want to change is the revel at the oven entry. I would recommend another. 5" on each side. So 1.5" on each side. The rest looks good.

Randy

Good eye Randy, I will reduce opening to 20" and also gain 1/2 on each side for the 1 1/2 door reveal. The 1 1/2 makes sense because I intend on beveling my arch bricks for smoother smoke flow and the extra width will allow me to still have at least a flat 1" surface for my door to rest against.
Ivancito