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It is looking great. I am glad you managed to avoid the droop. I had it on mine. It was not a real big deal, and I fixed it pretty easily. Keep up the good work. You are getting close to done with the dome.
Randy
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Hello everyone
Just some pics of my progress thus far. Cleared the arch and feeling relieved didn't have to deal with the dreaded droop. "Even the sun shines on a dogs ass once in a while".5 Photos
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Good job clearing the arch. Now you can make shape adjustments and spread out over a couple courses. Looks like tapered arch went well. Take a pic and post so other builders can see how it transitions.
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Finally making some progress, my entry arch is mortared and 5th course is done. Next course takes me right over the arch. I'm very pleased with the build thus far.
Thanks for everyone on this forum.
Ivan2 Photos
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Big black cloud sitting over Massachusetts been raining for 3 days now and haven't had any progress on oven build. Can't wait to get going again and polish up my brick cutting skills.
Ivan.
Thanks Les for the quick responce, will keep battling these brick cuts and do the best í can. I'm still very proud of my build and enjoying this project.1 Photo
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Thanks Russell, I will move my arch flush to the vertical support bricks and just move on with the build, like you said just gotta do some shaping as I go. I will keep everyone posted on my progress and thanks for all the help.
Ivan
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Ivan,
This is common when the IT pivot point is not directly at the floor level. Ie the centerline of the bolt on the castor is probably about the offset you are seeing. I had a similar situation as well. I left my arch so it lined up correctly at the base. I had to do some shape transitioning (slighltly oval to round over a couple courses above the arch to get back to round (I adjusted the IT length). Otherwise you will have a lip between the IT slope and the dome slope (not the end of world since no one will see it) but I think you will be happier adjusting the dome shape to address the 1/2" out of round.
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Hello everyone, need your opinions please. I did a dry fit of my new inner arch and think they are still 1/2 short on the length where they will transition into dome bricks. Picture shows the arch pushed further into the dome to meet up with the dome bricks but now í am left with a 1/2 lip at the vertical support bricks. Will this cause more problems or should o make the arch face flush with the support bricks. Thanks Ivan2 Photos
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My daughter and son in laws oven (pic) fired their oven up a few weeks ago following our wet season when it's way too hot to be thinking about fires. Although the oven is totally undercover it still sucked moisture from the atmosphere into the dry refractory from our really humid weather. Consequently on firing the oven exterior was quite hot to the touch although it performed ok. It is the moisture that conducts the heat making the insulation less effective. I like to leave the door of the oven completely off when possible so air can circulate inside the oven. One wet season a few years ago I opened the oven and found mould growing on the inside of the door's insulation panel.
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Thanks Gulf, its awesome how you can never stop learning from this forum and all its experienced builders, you guys are truly a treasure of knowledge. Gulf I like the four entryway bricks as a threshold and especially like and will also do the door reveal on my outer arch. I live in New England and the extra door will definitely help keep the water and snow out of the oven. I also plan on enclosing my oven doggy style house like Hodgey from Pennsylvania. Thanks for looking out for us newbies!Originally posted by Gulf View PostIvan,
I may have missed it, but how are you going to finish your oven? Will it be an Igloo or an enclosure? As George can tell you from experience, keeping water out of it should be on the top of the list for any oven design. Even without the damage that freezing water can cause, there is the loss of "oven efficiency". It can take sometimes weeks to get the oven back to peak performance. We talk a lot on this forum about the reveal for the insulated door. But, there is another "reveal" that I like to see designed into an oven. That should be on the outer arch imo. Especially, in Igloo designs that have no other protection from the elements. It can be designed into a stucco or a decorative brick arch. It may not be a lot, however it does give a little more cover to help shed the water from the entry. Most importantly, it will also allow for the easy installation of a storm door. A storm door is by far the easiest WFO related door that I have built so far. I do credit it with several saves, so far, from wind driven rain.
I did not mortar my entry floor brick in place. However, I did mortar a firebrick threshold that spans across the floor of the decorative arch. Doing it this way has allowed me to turn my entry floor brick over once. A second time, I was able to take them up and place them in the oven for a "cleaning cycle"
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Here is a link to my Storm Door and the threshold that is mortared in.
I hope this helps.
Ivan
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Ivan,
I may have missed it, but how are you going to finish your oven? Will it be an Igloo or an enclosure? As George can tell you from experience, keeping water out of it should be on the top of the list for any oven design. Even without the damage that freezing water can cause, there is the loss of "oven efficiency". It can take sometimes weeks to get the oven back to peak performance. We talk a lot on this forum about the reveal for the insulated door. But, there is another "reveal" that I like to see designed into an oven. That should be on the outer arch imo. Especially, in Igloo designs that have no other protection from the elements. It can be designed into a stucco or a decorative brick arch. It may not be a lot, however it does give a little more cover to help shed the water from the entry. Most importantly, it will also allow for the easy installation of a storm door. A storm door is by far the easiest WFO related door that I have built so far. I do credit it with several saves, so far, from wind driven rain.
I did not mortar my entry floor brick in place. However, I did mortar a firebrick threshold that spans across the floor of the decorative arch. Doing it this way has allowed me to turn my entry floor brick over once. A second time, I was able to take them up and place them in the oven for a "cleaning cycle"
.
Here is a link to my Storm Door and the threshold that is mortared in.
I hope this helps.
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Thanks gastagg for your concerns and kind words. Yes I wasn't sure if the entry floor was supposed to be mortared, I looked around the forum and didn't see any entry floors mortared. I may pull up entry floor bricks and mortar them in now that I have learned from your experience. Also I intend on enclosing my dome and entry just as many builders have done with a doggy house style enclosure, perhaps that may help.Originally posted by gastagg View PostYour work is looking great Ivan. I have one concern...are your bricks on the entry floor mortared? Is there any possibility that water will get in there? I did not mortar or protect my entry way bricks from water. First winter, the water that got in froze, expanded the floor, broke the arch. Long story short...I have built two entryways the last six months. Here are some pics with descriptions.
thanks again.
Ivan
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Your work is looking great Ivan. I have one concern...are your bricks on the entry floor mortared? Is there any possibility that water will get in there? I did not mortar or protect my entry way bricks from water. First winter, the water that got in froze, expanded the floor, broke the arch. Long story short...I have built two entryways the last six months. Here are some pics with descriptions.4 Photos
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