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Block Stand Question - Pompeii 42"
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Tile grout can't handle the heat of the inner arch. You can tuck and point the gaps with the same mortar you did the dome with. Need to do it before you fire the oven or the soot will not allow for good adhesion.
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Hey Guys,
Happy memorial day!!!! I have all things in place minus the keystone! (Going to let it all cure first!) I also took out my form for my inner arch and starting to cleanout the inside. It was my first good internal view that shows some of the gaps between bricks. Everything from 1/16" to 1/4". I don't feel I have a structural issue, but curious if I should go in and fill those gaps in? (I was thinking of using a tile grout float if it was recommended). I am very excited to start letting it cure so I can start building fires!
thanks!
Yeager
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Like the Karate Kid movie saying............"patience grasshopper".
Most like not required if you have a heat break, If you have some letfover Ca Si board here's a good place to use it up though.
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Hey all,
I got my 10th row up today (and the starter for my 11th and final row). I ended up getting some 5 gallon paint sticks from Home Depot, cutting notches in them, and waiting 1.5 days for the starter brick to bond before touching it. With waiting a little longer for it to cure and the sticks it was fairly easy - thank you for all the help!
Starting to think/work on the entryway and arch. I plan on having a heat transfer gap (1/4 inch around dome arch and a square (hollow) piece of stainless steel on the floor. If I do the heat gap that way is there any reason why I need to insulate the floor underneath?
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Thanks guys!!!! This is really helpful! I will try these out. My frustration level was a little high yesterday and good to hear others had challenges here also and pushed through it!
thanks,
Yeager
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The old stick tricks in combination with what JR said about a stiffer mortar worked for me. This area of the dome is slow and tedious. Don't rush it.
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Originally posted by Yeager View PostHey All,
I am on row 10 of 11 (then keystone) and having trouble keeping bricks from falling. I even set one overnight and as I tried setting one against it it fell off!
I've heard of many techniques (exercise balls inflated, fill dome with sand, etc).. What do you suggest? I am really wanting to get the keystone in this weekend, but feeling a little intimidated!
thanks,
Yeager
Thomas
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Yeager, I had some trouble with bricks when I got near the top and was starting to get frustrated, but then I got on a roll and things went pretty well. Here is what I did. Bricks had to be dry(ish), not waterlogged. I mixed up some fairly wet mortar, and wiped the brick and mating bricks on all contact surfaces with a wet sponge (just enough to see about 1/8 inch of color change). If I didn't see a color change the bricks had too much water already. I buttered up a brick and used the IT to set it into position, quickly wiping off the excess mortar. After maybe a minute to a minute and a half (about the time it took to butter the next brick) I repeated the process. My IT was mounted such that I could remove it without knocking the brick loose, but only if I did it right after I set the brick (hold it with one hand while freeing up the IT bracket). With this method I was able to finish off each row, then allowed them to sit overnight where they were firm enough to start the next row. Some have had good luck with setting a single brick overnight, when I tired that it ended up thunking down on the floor when I tried to place the first brick in the morning. I also could not let the bricks set too long before I laid the next brick or the previous one would fall. I had the best adhesion with the wet mortar just after they started to grab. I found when I got a row in quick they seemed to support each other, and in these upper rows the bricks are pretty much straight up and down. If the bricks are too wet, or mortar too dry, I could not get them to stick when I tried to place adjacent bricks. If I had to jostle a brick after it set for more than a minute or so it would fall. Working quickly with "grabby" mortar did the trick for me.
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Hey All,
I am on row 10 of 11 (then keystone) and having trouble keeping bricks from falling. I even set one overnight and as I tried setting one against it it fell off!
I've heard of many techniques (exercise balls inflated, fill dome with sand, etc).. What do you suggest? I am really wanting to get the keystone in this weekend, but feeling a little intimidated!
thanks,
Yeager
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Another vote for supervent! I used the same adapter. My vent opening was about 6.5" deep by 9.5" wide at the top, so transitioning to about 8.25 square to drop the adapter in was pretty easy. I did have to do quite a bit of custom cutting though.
An 8" pipe has about 50 square inches of cross section, so a 12X3 inch opening won't take advantage of all the pipe area. I think I read someone talking about creating a venturi effect with a smaller throat feeding their pipe, but I wanted to make sure all the smoke got into the chimney to hopefully lessen how much comes out the front.
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Yep that is the same thing that I used. It is the only option I found without going to duravent witch seamed like it cost twice as much.
As for ssfbs it is boiler shutdown season now and if you and Yeager are building ovens you can bet many more people are too and not posting about it. Good luck and I hope the rest of the build goes well.
Randy
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Originally posted by Yeager View PostFor my vent I plan on making another archway with a vent on top. I think I need to go with a 8" for 42" oven correct? Can I buy a arched vent plate that goes from 12"x3" (or whatever makes sense) to 8"? I am going to go with a house with flue coming out at top , do I need to use stainless steel vent or should I just go with galvanized?
Thanks!
Yeager
I don't think I've seen a plate that goes from the 12x3 to 8" dia, so this was the best option I found locally. SSFBS really went through a lot of the Smithfield FB as they were almost out when I stopped by a week ago. I just finished my 10th course tonight and started on the vent base as well.
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For my vent I plan on making another archway with a vent on top. I think I need to go with a 8" for 42" oven correct? Can I buy a arched vent plate that goes from 12"x3" (or whatever makes sense) to 8"? I am going to go with a house with flue coming out at top , do I need to use stainless steel vent or should I just go with galvanized?
Thanks!
Yeager
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You will feel great when you plug your dome but you won't be done with the custom cutting unless you are casting your vent. If you build it out of brick you will have plenty of chances to use your saw and ingenuity
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