Block Stand Question - Pompeii 42"

[RandyJ]

Hi Yeager yes those are the same screws that I used. They worked great I recommend them. Also the edgeing I got at menards. I will put up a picture, but make sure to get the biggest one's you can find. As to the direction of the rafters that is why I ran mine the way I did. If you want to strengthen it a little more you could tack a wooden stud to the side of the track for the roof framing. That would stiffen it up some more.

As to the wire you can run Romex in a conduit but it needs to conform to wire fill per conduit size. It only counts a one wire because it is a cable . So you might need a 3\4 " conduit to fit it. So THHN is just easier to deal with. And you could then use romex in grommets or if it is not to much work you could do it with the conduit then if something happens you could change or replace the wires or add something. Just a thought and I don't want to make it harder for you.

Randy

[Yeager]

Hi Randy,
Thanks! I am guessing I can find that aluminum edge at menards/home depot now that I know what to look for! For the roof fasteners Is this similar to what you used?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Teks-10-1...1380/100160285

I am thinking about how to attach the roof to the walls and starting to wonder if I should have the roof studs go left/ right so they attach on every stud flush on the angle. (I am assuming you don't try to angle the front/back top of the wall)?

For electrical, I believe I need to use individual THHN wires inside of the grey conduit, but after I get that to a light/outlet can I run to the other locations in the unit with romex running through studs (i.e. with gromets)?

thanks,
Yeager

[RandyJ]

Hi Yeager. I used 5\8" plywood on the roof of my oven. I used a type of self tapping screws ment to go from wood to metal. I can take a picture of them later for you if you want. You sure can run the studs front to back. I did mine side to side as I thought it worked better for me that way but the other way is just fine and probably stronger for what you are looking to do. As for the edge protection it is a aluminum pice that is powder coated for roof edgeing. I can send you some pictures when I get home. If you have any more questions let me know.

Randy

[Yeager]

Hey Guys,
Getting ready to work on my steel frame and have a few questions:

1) Did you use plywood on the roof or Durock? How did you attach to steel frame if it was plywood?

2) I noticed you had your "studs" for the roof running left / right (width) versus front / back. My natural thought with a 18-24" overhang in the front would be to go front / back studs - or is there something I might be missing?

3) How are you protecting the edge on the roof? Is that a vinyl facia piece or how is the exposed (plywood) edge protected?

thanks!
Yeager

[Yeager]

Latest picture during my 3rd Curing fire. I was able to get it up to 390-400 degrees and hold for a couple hours. My plan is to add the insulation for the remaining fires. I am really happy with the new "charcoal" countertop. I ordered the polish sandpaper randy recommendation yesterday. Appreciate everyone's help and guidance!

[Yeager]

Yup - I have everything outside GFCI covered! I use to build swimming pools and totally agree with the importance!

[RandyJ]

Russell brings up a good point. No madder what route you take you need GFCI protection. I should have mentioned that. I also would say a real polisher is the best route but it can be done with a RO sander.

Randy

[UtahBeehiver]

Yeager,

I did polished concrete with embedded glass. You start with 50 grit diamond pads and progressively work up to 400 grit. I would be cautious using a regular orbital sander with water without some type for GFI protection. I used a Hardin wet polisher that was variable speed (essential) that had GFI protection as part of the cord. There is a YouTube video by Cheng that gives you a good understanding of the concrete counter polishing process. The process takes several days and like curing you have to be patient for the best results.

[RandyJ]

I see. That makes sense. I don't remember just how long I spent, but it was not to bad I think a few hours. Maby a little longer. Yes most of the time was on the 60 grit. Then 100 and so on. Here is the set I used.https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0056...89L&ref=plSrch.

I hope the link works. The product worked great and I would recommend it.

Randy

[Yeager]

Hi Randy,
I am going to use them on my outdoor kitchen bar/island/grill. It appears that is what the systems on bbqcoach.com uses (with concrete countertops, etc). I could use the traditional 2x4 steel framing, but these would give a little bit more room for storage, a little cheaper, and a little lighter weight! How much time did you spend on sanding? Guessing most of the time is on the 60 grit to get it all at same level, then progressively work up in the grits?

thanks,
Yeager

[RandyJ]

Hi Yeager. I used a RO sander with some polishing pads that I got off Amazon. It worked very well. I would say my sander will never be the same again but it will cost me less that a quarter the price of a water polisher to buy a new one. I would poor a little water on the slab and run it for a while and then wipe off the slurry that develops. And just repeated the process. I would recommend doing the polishing before you do the stone work. I might have stained a few blocks on mine doing it after. It doesn't take super long to do it. I will see if I can find the packaging from the pads tomarrow.

Congrats on starting the curing fires. It feels good to start that. Just curious where are you going to use the small studs?

Randy

[Yeager]

Hi Randy,
Thanks! Your oven is quite remarkable and you've set the bar high! I am thinking of polishing the new countertop. How did you do yours? Did you use a orbital sander with continually adding water or did you buy a wet sander? What sanding material did you use?

I started my curing fires this weekend. I did a 200 degree fire yesterday and 300 degree fire today. I am going to order the steel studs from Tamarack tomorrow and have them delivered. I need to get 1 5/8 18 gauge also, but I think they need to special order that.

thanks,
Yeager

[RandyJ]

Hey Yeager there is no reason why you can't use the cinder blockspeople do that from time to time. I also got a bit of sticker shock when I bought my metal studs. I spent well over 300$ on my small enclosure and roof. So I can see why you are trying to save costs. As for the roof most recommend the steel studs, but if you do 3" of blankets and then backfill with vermiculite I can't see a problem. Just make sure you keep away from the chimney the 2" needed. That is how you would build a house after all. I can't wait to see how the counter tops turn out. They are looking good so far. I also did the black additive for my counter top. It is amazing how it jazzed it up. Are you going to polish the counter top or leave it as it is? Keep up the good work.

Randy

[Yeager]

Hey All,
I poured my second countertop today. It is 1/4" lower than my oven floor. I used the charcoal qwikcrete color to jazz it up a bit. Went fairly well, I hired a neighbor kid to help with some of the work (I am getting old!).

I unsuccessfully tried to pickup some 10' 2x6 & 2x4 18 gauge steel studs today. It was painful and will spare the details. As I saw what the price for the framing was going to cost, I started to ask a couple questions:

- What about dry stacking with 6" blocks (filling core with concrete/rebar) versus steel studs / durock. I did the math and it would appear to cost about 35-40 per side (four sides!) which would be considerably cheaper than steel frame and durock.

- Why not use 2x6 Lumbar for roof? Most are already using plywood - why not for the framing on the roof also? If you have the clearances from the flue (2" usually), would that be unreasonable? Might be dumb question, but thought I'd ask.

- If you have 3 inches of insulation and backfilling the rest of space with vermiculite, what would be the clearance needed for the oven for combustibles?

[RandyJ]

Hi Yeager I would say that looks great. I like the idea of the 1\4" slope to help shed water. Mine is also sloped just slightly like that. What did you think of the drop-ins. They are pretty slick and easy to use.

As for the electric I would go for the gray pvc. If you need to it can be heated and bent. To bend you can get away with a heat gun or torch. If you use a torch keep it moving had spin the pipe you don't want it to look like a roast marshmallow. When it gets like a wet noodle you are good to go. It is amazing how fast the steel conduit will rust out.

I also think that you are smart to have it delivered if you can get away with it.

Randy