Block Stand Question - Pompeii 42"

[Yeager]

Got a lot done yesterday! Thanks to all that have helped out so far - you guys are the best!

I have about 20 people coming over this sunday, so still have a lot of work to do, but things are looking pretty good. I won't have the stucco/stone up, but did my 700 degree fire last night and everything looked great. Going to go for 800 degree fire tonight!

thanks,
Yeager

[Yeager]

Thanks Randy! My oven width is 70" so the roof width would be 8+70+8 = 86" Wide. I'll post some pictures later today. I just got my temporary structure taken down so am committed to getting a roof on!

[RandyJ]

Hey Yeager. I just went back and looked at Tom's roof. He is all of 24"maby 32". I don't think he worried about it. So it is what you feel comfortable with.

https://community.fornobravo.com/forum/pizza-oven-design-and-installation/pompeii-oven-construction/19279-randy-s-dreams-do-come-true-oven-build/page24

It is on page 24 post#350

Randy

[RandyJ]

Hey Yeager. How wide over all is the roof? I know when I was shingleing my roof I had no issues at all and I weigh 250 os so and was sitting on that outer edge of my roof that is probably almost 3' out. But I think you should be ok. But here are my thoughts.

1. you could reduce to 18"

2. You could use standard 2x6 wood lumber and attach it to the outside of the track to stiffen it up.

3. I am not sure what you mean by outriggers. That is a term I have not heard. .

4. You could spin the roof the other direction and have the studs hold the weight. It will just be a little harder to attach to the rest of the framework, but it is do able.

That is my thoughts. Anyone else have a great idea.

Randy

[Yeager]

Hey all,
I am back to contemplating on the approach for my 2' Overhang in the front with my 6" steel. Currently I would have the studs going left/right (vs front/back) which would put the 2' load on the two 6" tracks on each side.

1) Continue as planned (i.e. I am overthinking!)

2) Setup outriggers like you do on a house overhang (I'd need another 8' of 6" track so I can't really finish that today)

3) Do #1, but reduce to 18" vs 24" overhang..

I think thomas did #1 and it looks great. Not sure if his overhang is 18" or 24" though.

thoughts?

[RandyJ]

Yes it is ceader that I used as soffit and facia. I know my roof used 2 full sheets of plywood I had thought of running the roof out over the prep counter but was worried about how to support it and have it look good. Did you take any pictures of what you have done? I can't wait to see how it turns out.

Randy

[Yeager]

Thanks Randy,
Made good progress today (although was working at half pace with the hot weather & humidity!). I got three of the steel walls done and going to work on fourth (the front) and the roof tomorrow. What is that you guys (you and tom!) are using as your facia? Is that cedar?

Looks like I am going to need 3 sheets of plywood.

thanks,
Yeager

[RandyJ]

Hi Yeager. For the corners just screw the edge of the steel studs togather. You can reverse the direction of the stud to make it fit. You just need the same screws you are useing for the rest of it. Just screw from the inside of the stud. Call me if you need help.

[Yeager]

Thanks Randy! I owe you a cold 12 pack of your choice!

For connecting the walls at corners do I need to get longer screws to connect them or buy some sort of connector plate? I would imagine thats where a lot of the strength comes from, but its my first time working with steel studs.

thanks,
Yeager

[RandyJ]

Hi Yeager. No you do not need to screw both sides in. Most of my build only has a screw on one side. If you can get another in on some great but otherwise don't worry about it. In construction sometimes they only put in one screw per stud. If you can get 2 on the top go for it, but it eill be fine as well with one. The roof you will want screwed on both sides. Good luck. I can't wait to see how it turns out.

Randy

[Yeager]

Hi Randy,
So I thought I'd start by fastening down my track on the floor and "stick" in the studs, but I realized that i won't be able to reach both sides of the studs due to clearance to put in the self taping screw. did you build each wall separate and then fasten down or did you just fasten from the inside?

thanks!
Yeager

[RandyJ]

You are correct. If you build the roof on the ground then it is much easier to assemble it. The framework for the roof will probably weigh about 100# or so maby a little more. Then once it is up and squared and secured then put on the plywood. Make sure you leave a little room for a facia on top of the steel studs under the plywood. I also moved the last steel studs in a little so I could cut the track vertically and then put in a wooden stud.

Randy

[Yeager]

Thanks Randy - I am guessing when you mean you built the roof on the ground you did the studs and plywood, then cut the hole for flue, put the water membrane, and shingles up in the air? (I would think getting the flue exactly correct would be hard with the angles?)

[RandyJ]

I think that will be just fine for a overhang. As to the sides you might want a little more depending on what you are doing for the stone veneer. I think I had a foot and now it is down to like 8"or so. Because you have your cement board, scratch cote if you go that route, mortar, and stone. So it adds up and eats in to the overhang. If you have help you can build the roof on the ground and then lift it up and set it in place. That is how I did mine and it worked great. Keep posting pictures and I will let you know if I see anything wrong.

Randy

[Yeager]

Thanks Randy! I feel pretty confident on everything but the roof. I am a big guy and don't want to have to climb up there! I think I should be able to do most of it from ladders on the side - but we'll find out!

I am planning a 24" rough overhang in front, 6" on sides/back. Does that seem reasonable?

thanks,
Yeager