Block Stand Question - Pompeii 42"

[UtahBeehiver]

JR did a great sketch up of determining and explaining the lower slope. You can use your IT, if you make a pencil attachment, turn pencil horizontal, start at arch form scribe arch upward (inside diameter of dome) to where it intersects top slope. I string and pencil may work but string needs to be really taunt. As mentioned before, the angles from one side of the brick to the other side are not symmetrical, It is really important, as JR mentioned that the forward/aft placement of the work is correct. Again use your IT to place. See pic.

[JRPizza]

See if this sketch helps. The curved lines are the inner and outer surfaces of the dome. The rectangular brick is the arch top brick, set where the bottom is the door height. If I understand your other question, the bottom slope is cut to match the inner surface of the dome, which should be about perpendicular to the line created by the IT (shown in the sketch). The top slope matches the slope of the brick that is going to sit on top of it . This only works though if you have your arch in the right place, front to back.

[Yeager]

OK, Cool. I think I get the top slope. If I draw a line of the outer dome with the IT and then put a stringline (on the side of brick) from the Center of dome (floor) to the new line - that line becomes the top slope. Been staring at the photo to try and figure out the bottom slope - is there a way to determine that?

thanks!

[UtahBeehiver]

The slope is the same angle as the center of the rod on the IT. The inner arch line is the inside of the dome. The outer line is the outside of the dome so if you use half of a 9" brick. These lines will be abt 4.5" apart on a angle that the IT sets the brick for that course. It is a little confusing until you actually cut a brick.

[Yeager]

Thanks Russell! How do I determine the slope? I can envision on how to scribe the top line, it's where the top of brick touches the outer done plane/radius. The inner dome plane /radius is a line and not sure which point to choose?

[UtahBeehiver]

Stealing each others ideas is what the forum is all about......LOL. FYI, when you scribe you bricks for the tapered arch us a pencil attached to the IT and start with the top dead center brick (TDC) then work each way. Note that the brick face angles change from left or right or right to left. Also it takes more than a half a brick to make the tapered arch so scribe on a full brick..

[gastagg]

Looking great! Looking forward to see how waiting to do the arch and the adjoining rows at the same time works.

[Yeager]

Hey Guys,
Thanks for the compliments. This is my first time working with brick, so am making lots of mistakes and learning from them!

Utah,
What you've shared is what I've been envisioning (or at least close!). I need to put some more thought into it for final design - I've been procrastinating on this step!

Thanks,
Yeager!

[UtahBeehiver]

Yeager,

Very nice brick joint work. Here is a pic from, I think MrChipster, on how you use your IT to do a tapered arch like the one I think you are going to do.

Also, as you do your courses, the last thing to do is set a brick or two on the next course at the back of the dome and let it cure overnight. It will give you an anchor to set the bricks especially as you move up in the higher courses.

[RandyJ]

Hey Yeager it is looking great. Yes you will probably need to replace the blade a time or 2. It depends on what blade you are useing. If yo are useing the continues rim blades you might go through 3. I used the rigid brand segmented blades and went through 2. When you think about it it is suprising how long they last.

What type of oven entry arch are you doing? I am a little confused looking at the pictures.

Randy

[Yeager]

Made some good progress over the past couple weekends! Starting to get the hang of the cuts! It's taking me about 2 - 2.5 hours per level including cuts. I think my Diamond Blade needs to be replaced soon - not cutting as smooth/quick as it used to.

[Yeager]

I've been able to do the joints without making a jig. The newer 10" HF Saw allows for compound cuts. I use my dewalt miter saw and cut the angle on a 2x4 (I get better angle precision on that) and then transfer that angle to the HF saw blade. I'll work on a picture or video.

thanks!

Yeager

[david s]

From what I have heard that stuff flashes over very fast and makes it much harder to work with. My advice is to use the standard mix. It is much easier to use and if you are not a pro Masson that is good.

Randy

I agree. For the temperature range we use the home-brew is adequate and proved to be more workable as well as cheaper, we are building ovens not kilns. You could make out an argument for using calcium aluminate for the top third of the dome, which does receive higher temps, but I don't think it's necessary. You will also get a shock when you hear the price of calcium aluminate cement.

[gastagg]

Joints look great Yeager!

[RandyJ]

From what I have heard that stuff flashes over very fast and makes it much harder to work with. My advice is to use the standard mix. It is much easier to use and if you are not a pro Masson that is good.

Randy