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42" Pompeii at Canyon Lake

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  • 42" Pompeii at Canyon Lake

    I’m a genuine newbie looking for some advice. First, I have a FB Pompeii 110 Oven Kit and plan to build a 42” dome oven with a stucco igloo enclosure. Does anyone have a good design using the kit? The instructions at the FB site and on the DVD (Pompeii Oven™ Plans Version 2.0) show a compendium of multiple designs rather than a consistent design for all parts of the construction. I’ve looked at lots of posts and designs but most are not based on the FB kit and I could not find any plans, only pictures of in-progress and completed ovens. I probably can decipher it and come up with my own design but it would seem that someone has already done that and I could both save some time and avoid newbie mistakes.

    Second, has anyone tapered the bricks using the calculations in Pompeii_dome_calculator_v4.xlsx? The spreadsheet calculates I need 170 firebricks without the entry arch and vent. The kit comes with 140. Do I need to buy more bricks if I taper them? I assume that 140 are enough if I do no tapering…does anyone know?

    Third, has anyone done less tapering by trimming the bricks to eliminate the “inverted vee” while using mortar to fill most of the “vee” that gets larger for the higher chains? I’m not planning to fully taper the bricks and will be happy with the nominal 1/2” mortar joint on the outside diameter of the dome.

    Fourth, has anyone cut the bricks in thirds or quarters for the higher chains to either reduce the sizes of the “vee” and “inverted vee” or reduce the amount of tapering needed to eliminate them? I’m thinking about using 3” wide bricks for chains 5 – 7 and 2-1/4” wide bricks for chains 8 - 12.

    That’s a long enough list for now, but I’m sure I will have more questions as I go forward. For now, I’m getting ready for the slab pour next week. Thanks in advance for your help!

  • #2
    Here is a link to some of the more documented builds. It will give you a vast array of techniques and designs for you to pic and choose from although like you said, most are not from kits.Deejayho did the taper/bevel spreadsheet which was developed after my build but it is a great tool. That said, you really only need to worry about the taper and bevel right near the interior side of the bricks and let mortar fill in the voids on the backside (which never gets seen after you insulate. Some of my upper course bricks were thirds and quarters.
    Google Photo Album []


    • #3
      For most of my build I did just the bevel cuts. I found the taper to be way to much of a hassle. The only thing you will see is the inside. I also did thirds and quarters as the rows got higher. The bricks will tell you when you need to adjust.

      As to the design that is up to each person. There is no set plan. That is what makes it yours and unique. It is not that hard to design the enclosure just read a few builds and see how people did it. There are also framing how to things on the net. We all have obstacles that influence what we build and that is how you end up with the huge variety. Keep asking questions and you will find your answers.



      • #4
        Thanks for the help. Has anyone been able to translate the hyperlinks to the new FB server?


        • #5
          John, I went with the bevel to eliminate/reduce the inverted vee, and used mortar to fill in the exterior gaps (didn't bother with tapering). I also, after the first few courses, started using progressively smaller bricks. The best looking interiors, and probably the strongest, have all the vertical mortar joints staggered. If you try to use bricks of the same size for successive courses you will have to insert small bricks (1/3, 1/4) somewhere in each row or the joints will get progressively closer as you build the course. The cure for this is to make the bottom edge of bricks in a course the same size as the top of the bricks in the course below them (assuming you are beveling). If you start a course on the far side from your arch (the most visible bricks) and center the first brick on two bricks below, this method of sizing/cutting will eliminate the need to stick in the occasional small piece.
          My build thread


          • #6
            Originally posted by John@CanyonLake View Post
            Thanks for the help. Has anyone been able to translate the hyperlinks to the new FB server?


            We have corrected the missing hyperlinks in that posting.

            Forno Bravo


            • #7
              I am some what local to you in Rancho Cucamonga, I used a block saw to taper and bevel the bricks, also using a template and a angle finder. DM me and I will give you my email and I can send some pictures. ND