36" WFO in Candia, NH, USA

[UtahBeehiver]

Start a thread under "Pompeii Oven Construction" and I will merge current post to it.

[UtahBeehiver]

Start a thread under "Pompeii Oven Construction" and I will merge current post to it.

[MichaelPBoisvert]

Should I continue to post progress here, or start a new post under Brick oven photos?

[MichaelPBoisvert]

Should I continue to post progress here, or start a new post under Brick oven photos?

[MichaelPBoisvert]

Thanks JR! That's sounds like a great way to go. I learned a few other things from that thread as well.

[MichaelPBoisvert]

Thanks JR! That's sounds like a great way to go. I learned a few other things from that thread as well.

[JRPizza]

Michael, I recommend all new builders read the thread linked below. Good information about what would folks do differently. Several builders echo what Russell said above, just doing a bevel on the sides of the bricks to keep internal joints tight would save a lot of time with little to no effect on oven performance or looks. You will use more mortar, but if you are going the homebrew route it is relatively cheap.

https://community.fornobravo.com/for...change?t=12453

[JRPizza]

Michael, I recommend all new builders read the thread linked below. Good information about what would folks do differently. Several builders echo what Russell said above, just doing a bevel on the sides of the bricks to keep internal joints tight would save a lot of time with little to no effect on oven performance or looks. You will use more mortar, but if you are going the homebrew route it is relatively cheap.

https://community.fornobravo.com/for...change?t=12453

[MichaelPBoisvert]

More great info, thanks again! I'm drafting up my design and will post it for advice, in the proper location of the forum. Cheers

[MichaelPBoisvert]

More great info, thanks again! I'm drafting up my design and will post it for advice, in the proper location of the forum. Cheers

[UtahBeehiver]

I did do a full side compound bevel on my bricks, I did to show myself I could, would I do it again, most likely not (a lot of saw time) That said, you can accomplish the same inside joint tolerance by just doing a bevel cut but only the first inch or so from the inside of the dome out (where the bricks conflict - you will not see this the first couple courses but as you go up this cut eliminates the "inverted V"), then let mortar be you friend and fill in the gap on the back side. I believe JRPizza did this and his inside joints look very nice. This way you can spend you time resources elsewhere.

Also here is an example of a build that did not use bevel angle and the inverted v is prominent.

[UtahBeehiver]

I did do a full side compound bevel on my bricks, I did to show myself I could, would I do it again, most likely not (a lot of saw time) That said, you can accomplish the same inside joint tolerance by just doing a bevel cut but only the first inch or so from the inside of the dome out (where the bricks conflict - you will not see this the first couple courses but as you go up this cut eliminates the "inverted V"), then let mortar be you friend and fill in the gap on the back side. I believe JRPizza did this and his inside joints look very nice. This way you can spend you time resources elsewhere.

Also here is an example of a build that did not use bevel angle and the inverted v is prominent.

[MichaelPBoisvert]

Another mortar option is a home brew version that has work very well for the members. 3 sand, 1 lime, 1 portland, 1 FIRE Clay and less expensive. You will use more mortar than you think. Heat Stop 50 does have a recommended maximum joint size up to 1/2". You will see these joint sizes larger than this on the back side of the dome or arch bricks unless you do compound tapering of the brick (not worth it IMHO). That said, I have seen many builder use this product with larger joint sizes,

I see in your build it seems you used compound tapering (maybe I'm confused?) So your opinion is greatly appreciated. Is there a specific reason you don't think it is worth it? I was looking at the Dome calculator and it seems that utilizes some pretty intricate cutting as well, which I'm not necessarily opposed to. What is the negative with using half blocks only cutting 1 or 2 per lift, at angles without face mortor, like mentioned in the original plans? Thanks again for your input.

[MichaelPBoisvert]

Another mortar option is a home brew version that has work very well for the members. 3 sand, 1 lime, 1 portland, 1 FIRE Clay and less expensive. You will use more mortar than you think. Heat Stop 50 does have a recommended maximum joint size up to 1/2". You will see these joint sizes larger than this on the back side of the dome or arch bricks unless you do compound tapering of the brick (not worth it IMHO). That said, I have seen many builder use this product with larger joint sizes,

I see in your build it seems you used compound tapering (maybe I'm confused?) So your opinion is greatly appreciated. Is there a specific reason you don't think it is worth it? I was looking at the Dome calculator and it seems that utilizes some pretty intricate cutting as well, which I'm not necessarily opposed to. What is the negative with using half blocks only cutting 1 or 2 per lift, at angles without face mortor, like mentioned in the original plans? Thanks again for your input.

[MichaelPBoisvert]

Thanks again! Your oven is incredible! Beautiful work