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36" WFO in Candia, NH, USA - Forno Bravo Forum: The Wood-Fired Oven Community

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  • 36" WFO in Candia, NH, USA

    Hi, I'm throwing myself at this project and I'm way over my head. I'm building a 36" Tuscan style Pompeii from the "Build and Authentic Itailing Wood-Burning Oven" plans. I have limited framing and wood working skills, and have zero experience with Masonry, but I think if I take my time and stay patient I can conquer this thing (wishful thinking). I've already built my foundation and Block frame (photo attached) I plan on following the plans as close as possible and using Youtube videos as well. Are there things that I should avoid from these plans or will I get a decent product following those steps? One of the key pieces I'm deciding on, is insulating the Hearth with Fiber boards or cement and vericulite. It seems like the fiberboard is the way to go due to time savings and oven efficiency?

    I'm in the process of purchasing FireBricks. Prices seem all over the board. What are people typically paying?

    Any words of encourgment and advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Cheers
    Mike

  • #2
    I am assuming that you are using the Forno Bravo plans, just so you are aware, the plans are a great baseline document but somewhat dated. Peruse the forum for updated construction and materials that have been developed by it's members since the plan was originally published. A majority of us were not professional masons when we started this project but it you stay patient and not be afraid to ask the forum questions then you will be successful.Ceramic fiber board is certainly more efficient but also absorbs water easily, it is more costly than vcrete but vcrete needs to be thicker for equivalent thickness of CF board. Again peruse the forum for the various options to make an informed decision.

    Go to refractory suppliers for fire brick, not you big box stores, less than 2 bucks each should be available unless you are our poor Aussie/Kiwi friends who pay 4-5 buck each. Here is a link to some of the more documented builds on the forum

    https://community.fornobravo.com/for...n-the-archives
    Russell
    Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]

    Comment


    • #3
      I am assuming that you are using the Forno Bravo plans, just so you are aware, the plans are a great baseline document but somewhat dated. Peruse the forum for updated construction and materials that have been developed by it's members since the plan was originally published. A majority of us were not professional masons when we started this project but it you stay patient and not be afraid to ask the forum questions then you will be successful.Ceramic fiber board is certainly more efficient but also absorbs water easily, it is more costly than vcrete but vcrete needs to be thicker for equivalent thickness of CF board. Again peruse the forum for the various options to make an informed decision.

      Go to refractory suppliers for fire brick, not you big box stores, less than 2 bucks each should be available unless you are our poor Aussie/Kiwi friends who pay 4-5 buck each. Here is a link to some of the more documented builds on the forum

      https://community.fornobravo.com/for...n-the-archives
      Russell
      Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]

      Comment


      • #4
        I priced bricks all around the Boston area. Best I found was Masonry Drywall Supply in Raynham, about $1.60. Lots of places are over $2.Stone Gallery in Newton was reasonable at $1.80 and a lot closer to me, depending on where you are in NH it may or may not be reasonable. I've got about 2/3 bag of left over FireStop 50 mortar and a few bricks that I'd give you if you wanted it.
        My build thread: https://tinyurl.com/y8bx7hbd

        Comment


        • #5
          I priced bricks all around the Boston area. Best I found was Masonry Drywall Supply in Raynham, about $1.60. Lots of places are over $2.Stone Gallery in Newton was reasonable at $1.80 and a lot closer to me, depending on where you are in NH it may or may not be reasonable. I've got about 2/3 bag of left over FireStop 50 mortar and a few bricks that I'd give you if you wanted it.
          My build thread: https://tinyurl.com/y8bx7hbd

          Comment


          • #6
            Thank you both for the advice and input! I found a place a few towns over, Hudson Quarry that have bricks for $1.90. That is the best price I found in my area. I guess with Mass tax that would be the same ballpark? Rubix composite in Woburn is selling "Heat Stop 50, 2500F Dry, NWS Indoor/Outdoor refractory mortar - $65 per 50# bag." seems like a good price. Thank you for the offer for the mortar and bricks. I'll probably buy on the low side and If I think I will run out I'll take you up on that for sure. That's really nice of you.
            Cheers

            Comment


            • #7
              Thank you both for the advice and input! I found a place a few towns over, Hudson Quarry that have bricks for $1.90. That is the best price I found in my area. I guess with Mass tax that would be the same ballpark? Rubix composite in Woburn is selling "Heat Stop 50, 2500F Dry, NWS Indoor/Outdoor refractory mortar - $65 per 50# bag." seems like a good price. Thank you for the offer for the mortar and bricks. I'll probably buy on the low side and If I think I will run out I'll take you up on that for sure. That's really nice of you.
              Cheers

              Comment


              • #8
                Another mortar option is a home brew version that has work very well for the members. 3 sand, 1 lime, 1 portland, 1 FIRE Clay and less expensive. You will use more mortar than you think. Heat Stop 50 does have a recommended maximum joint size up to 1/2". You will see these joint sizes larger than this on the back side of the dome or arch bricks unless you do compound tapering of the brick (not worth it IMHO). That said, I have seen many builder use this product with larger joint sizes,
                Russell
                Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]

                Comment


                • #9
                  Another mortar option is a home brew version that has work very well for the members. 3 sand, 1 lime, 1 portland, 1 FIRE Clay and less expensive. You will use more mortar than you think. Heat Stop 50 does have a recommended maximum joint size up to 1/2". You will see these joint sizes larger than this on the back side of the dome or arch bricks unless you do compound tapering of the brick (not worth it IMHO). That said, I have seen many builder use this product with larger joint sizes,
                  Russell
                  Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks again! Your oven is incredible! Beautiful work

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thanks again! Your oven is incredible! Beautiful work

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
                        Another mortar option is a home brew version that has work very well for the members. 3 sand, 1 lime, 1 portland, 1 FIRE Clay and less expensive. You will use more mortar than you think. Heat Stop 50 does have a recommended maximum joint size up to 1/2". You will see these joint sizes larger than this on the back side of the dome or arch bricks unless you do compound tapering of the brick (not worth it IMHO). That said, I have seen many builder use this product with larger joint sizes,
                        I see in your build it seems you used compound tapering (maybe I'm confused?) So your opinion is greatly appreciated. Is there a specific reason you don't think it is worth it? I was looking at the Dome calculator and it seems that utilizes some pretty intricate cutting as well, which I'm not necessarily opposed to. What is the negative with using half blocks only cutting 1 or 2 per lift, at angles without face mortor, like mentioned in the original plans? Thanks again for your input.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
                          Another mortar option is a home brew version that has work very well for the members. 3 sand, 1 lime, 1 portland, 1 FIRE Clay and less expensive. You will use more mortar than you think. Heat Stop 50 does have a recommended maximum joint size up to 1/2". You will see these joint sizes larger than this on the back side of the dome or arch bricks unless you do compound tapering of the brick (not worth it IMHO). That said, I have seen many builder use this product with larger joint sizes,
                          I see in your build it seems you used compound tapering (maybe I'm confused?) So your opinion is greatly appreciated. Is there a specific reason you don't think it is worth it? I was looking at the Dome calculator and it seems that utilizes some pretty intricate cutting as well, which I'm not necessarily opposed to. What is the negative with using half blocks only cutting 1 or 2 per lift, at angles without face mortor, like mentioned in the original plans? Thanks again for your input.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I did do a full side compound bevel on my bricks, I did to show myself I could, would I do it again, most likely not (a lot of saw time) That said, you can accomplish the same inside joint tolerance by just doing a bevel cut but only the first inch or so from the inside of the dome out (where the bricks conflict - you will not see this the first couple courses but as you go up this cut eliminates the "inverted V"), then let mortar be you friend and fill in the gap on the back side. I believe JRPizza did this and his inside joints look very nice. This way you can spend you time resources elsewhere.

                            Also here is an example of a build that did not use bevel angle and the inverted v is prominent.

                            Attached Files
                            Russell
                            Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I did do a full side compound bevel on my bricks, I did to show myself I could, would I do it again, most likely not (a lot of saw time) That said, you can accomplish the same inside joint tolerance by just doing a bevel cut but only the first inch or so from the inside of the dome out (where the bricks conflict - you will not see this the first couple courses but as you go up this cut eliminates the "inverted V"), then let mortar be you friend and fill in the gap on the back side. I believe JRPizza did this and his inside joints look very nice. This way you can spend you time resources elsewhere.

                              Also here is an example of a build that did not use bevel angle and the inverted v is prominent.

                              Attached Files
                              Russell
                              Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]

                              Comment

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