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42" build in McPherson KS

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  • slschoming
    replied
    Originally posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
    blue is a high temp caulk - see pic.but hard to find and expensive. Kawool makes a version called moldable caulk. There are others out there. Red is just home brew.
    Thanks, Russell. Would something like this work?

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rutland-...-202218155-_-N

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    blue is a high temp caulk - see pic.but hard to find and expensive. Kawool makes a version called moldable caulk. There are others out there. Red is just home brew.

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  • slschoming
    replied
    UtahBeehiver Hey Russell, I have a couple questions about the photo attached. I saw that you stuffed some ceramic/fire rope between your inner arch and your vent arch. My question is: Is this regular homebrew mortar circled in blue or is it a vermiculite mix? Also, where I circled in red, did you do anything special with that joint since part of your chimney is resting on the inner arch and part is not? I am wanting to do a very similar thing with my vent / chimney. I have seen others where they will put a quarter or third of a brick width on the backside of the outer arch to rest the back of the chimney on, but I was hoping I could save a little bit of space and rest the back of my chimney on the inner arch like this.

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  • slschoming
    replied
    She's wishing I was dropping pizza scraps instead of brick scraps...

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  • slschoming
    replied
    Made some more progress this weekend. In the last few photos the arch bricks are not cut or mortared, I just placed them there to visualize and make sure my spacing was still correct.

    Is there any issue with having the bricks touch at the bottom on my arch like they do in the photo, or should I be leaving a little more room between the bottoms for mortar?

    I am almost through my first batch of bricks. I might need to take a day off work this week and go on another material run to get another 150 bricks and some blanket.
    Last edited by slschoming; 07-22-2019, 10:19 AM. Reason: Edit to ask question about arch mortaring

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  • slschoming
    replied
    Awesome, sounds good. Thanks Chach!

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  • Chach
    replied
    I would leave it alone as it does not affect the operation of the oven whatsoever. It may just go away on its own when you fire the oven up.

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  • slschoming
    replied
    I just got home after being gone for 5 days and checked on my oven.. It might be a little difficult to see in this picture, but there seems to be a gray haze left from portland that I must not have fully wiped away from the face of my bricks. Would a little sanding take care of this?

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  • slschoming
    replied
    UtahBeehiver Yes, I noticed that your bricks were tapered in all dimensions. Your work is very impressive and even if your mortar would burn up your dome would still be standing! However, I agree that time is a valuable resource..and I'm already slow enough as it is!

    To maintain the stagger I have been starting each new course in the middle back and making sure I am centered over a joint. Then only my bricks that meet the arch will have to be cut to a different width. That's basically what you are saying, right? I hadn't thought about leaving an anchor, but I did it each day unintentionally and it has worked well.

    Also,good time saving point about the side bevel.. I had been beveling the whole side, but since the backs are about an inch apart I suppose they don't need any beveling back there!

    zoolander Thanks! Did I see you're making pizzas now?

    Thanks for the feedback!

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Here are a couple tips,

    Make corrections on brick width (to maintain staggered joints) on the front half of the dome and the best work and best faced bricks on the back half of the dome. Once the oven is complete and fired up, you really only see the back half and your guest are non the wiser. Also, you do not need to do a full side bevel to remove the inverted V, just the front quarter or so of the brick. Use mortar to fill the larger gap on the backside. I was one who wanted to have perfect side joints and did full side bevels but it is not worth the time resource. Last, at the end of the day, place and mortar one or two bricks on the next course (back middle) and let them sit overnight, this gives you an anchor to start the next days work.

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  • slschoming
    replied
    I started mortaring today. I'm bevelling every other brick on course 4 to try to prevent the inverted V. I'm also tapering my arch wall bricks as I go up. I haven't made my arch template yet but plan to do that before I go any higher.

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  • slschoming
    replied
    Originally posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
    I have a 42" oven with an inner arch width of 20" and have no issues with getting a large turkey in the oven.
    Good to know! Thanks Russell!

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    You're stressing over the width too much. I have a 42" oven with an inner arch width of 20" and have no issues with getting a large turkey in the oven. Here is a pic of how the IT is used to do a taper arch like the style you are talking about. It came from Mr.Chipster.
    Last edited by UtahBeehiver; 06-28-2019, 11:35 AM.

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  • slschoming
    replied
    Originally posted by JRPizza View Post
    Seth, If you have not built your inner arch form yet now would be a good time. You can set the form in the location you have chosen for your arch, set a brick on the top of the form, and use your IT to make sure the dome and arch will mate properly.
    I have not built it yet. I am thinking it will be 3 bricks of straight wall with a partial arch on top.

    Originally posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
    The inner arch alignment looks good now. I suggest that you make your IT adjustable and the key is that the centerline of the pivot point at the floor hits the centerline of the brick, ie if your brick is 2.5" thick then the centerline of the IT from the pivot point will should hit the brick at the 1.25" mark. There was a recent non-weld wood IT that was done recently that was adjustable. You do not say how high your arch is but it should be abt 63-65% of the dome height, width is not as critical. If you are doing a tapered inner arch (recommended), then you will be using full length bricks on arch not halves, the full length give you material to work with. The top dead center of the arch will be the longest brick, tapered inner arch make the dome to arch transition much easier.
    I think my center / pivot point is at floor level, and I did make sure the bracket is centering my bricks to the dowel. I grabbed some stuff at the hardware store on the way home yesterday and will work on making an adjustable version.

    My opening is going to be 13.5" and my dome height is 21" (64.3%). I would like a little wider opening like I had originally planned (25-26"), but I saw that apagios warned about losing too much heat with a wide opening. He uses loose cut fire bricks on the sides of his inner arch to slow down the outflow of heat when doing pizza, which I think is a great solution, I just think I would be constantly knocking those over with my peel and having to get gloves on to put them back up. So I am currently planning to narrow it down to about 22 inches wide.

    Apagios, have you had any luck with a turkey?

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  • JRPizza
    replied

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