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Many of us actually have two doors, one for firing and one for baking. My firing door weighs in at about 20 pounds and is an insulated, stainless steel door. My baking door is primarily used during active use (bread mostly) where I need to open and close with one hand (the other with loaded peel or baking sheet). Hope the link gives you ideas and information for your door solution.
Mike Stansbury - The Traveling Loafer
Roseburg, Oregon
Michael, it was suggested to me to use the form for your dome arch as a template for the door. I used it to trace an outline onto steel. I made the sides & top ~1/4 inch smaller than the traced outline, this was to allow for space for expansion of door due to heat. I then marked out tabs to bend over to create the thickness to the door (think straight tabs ~4.5 inches long, kinda like an asterisk for the rounded part). The straight bent sides formed the sides and bottom. For the top i had tabs that bent over then covered with a second strip of steel to cover the non-continuous tabs. It is filled with 3 layers of 1" ceramic fiber blanket insulation. The tabs that extend from all sides (top, bottom, & sides) all need to be long enough to bend for side and also extra (~1.25" to 1.5") to have part of the tab against the wood to attach bolts through (thus 4.5" tab length for 3" thick door). To be clear, this door only has 2 pieces of metal (it might take some sketching for yourself to understand what i'm describing)
I used 22G plain steel available at home reno store here. It has been functional and fairly effective so far, but has only been a few months (so i can't speak to longevity)
The pics below are essentially where it is at. I've made a few enhancements, because as shown in the picture it was a little flimsy with only 3 bolts holding on the wooden front. For this i bent out tabs to i could have more attachment points for bolts (i need a picture to explain). I also added fiberglass (or maybe ceramic) insulating rope, also not pictured here.
Here is a picture of the back in the current state. You can see the little metal tabs sticking out behind the fiberglass insulation.
Hope this picture helps to explain.
Here is a link to the door I built, which I think is practical as long as you or a friend has moderate welding skills. I built mine using only tack welds as my skills were slightly less than moderate
I used standard (alloy) steel and didn't paint the door, but after 2 years there is only a little surface rust on the outside. The bolts in the handles tend to work themselves loose after a while but the design allows for easy re-tightening.
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