Oven Build in Spring

[cbailey]

I reworked the brick placement to avoid the small triangle bricks abutting the landing bricks. I like this much more. I kept the herringbone for the cook area, but adjusted as needed to avoid small bricks around the perimeter that will be under the first course of the dome. Unfortunately, I ended up with 2 small bricks. I have an idea how to avoid those. I just need to think outside the box, or in the case outside 4.5" and 9" dimensions.

Thanks JR for the link. I'm been trying to figure out how to attach the pencil to the end of my IT. You gave me the solution.

Similar to you, I cut out brick templates from cardboard, rather than from 2x6s, to figure some of the brick placements. It helped me to avoid a lot of mistakes, but not all.

I made a template out cardboard that also helped with placement. Actually 2. I used one under the brick to protect the CaSi, and one on top to help with alignment and placement of the IT.

[cbailey]

Addition to my last post. I'll remove the cardboard between the brick and CaSi when I move the floor to the hearth.

[cbailey]

Anyone who knows Houston understands it rains. A lot. Even though I will cover the build water has a way of intrusion. I'm concerned about the CaSi getting wet. Any thoughts on waterproofing agent that could be painted on ( like foundation waterproofing) or smeared on (like silicone). Russell, I saw that you affixed a course of thin brick on your base. Did you use mortar or another bonding agent?

Thanks.

[Gulf]

Just about any thing that you do to seal the insulation could also trap water inside.
Russell may have not noticed the question directed to him. This UtahBeehiver should give him an alert.

[cbailey]

Thank you Gulf. Good point. But at some point that will be sealed. Or am I over thinking this and it's just not that big of a deal?

[UtahBeehiver]

I see I was asked a question that I missed. The veneer bricks were just around the front vent area and I just used my regular home brew.

The current thought process on keeping the CaSi from absorbing water from hearth are 1. put weep holes in the hearth so if any water do accumulate it can egress out, 2. raise the CaSi so it does not sit directly on the hearth, tiles, paver blocks both spaced so water can move to weep holes or in my case I used FoamGlas as my base layer of insulation (it will not absorb water but is every bit as expensive as CaSi. David S also suggests sloping the hearth during the pour so any water moves outwards. Water saturated CaSi is one of the most common problems with poor oven performance so I suggest you look closely at these alternatives and chose what work best for your.

[Gulf]

Actually it is a big deal to keep it dry during the build if at all possible. But, as you know we want to be able dry it out should all else fail. With the collective minds on this forum, we have come a long way with this idea in the last few years. Elevating the insulation with a non-moisture wicking material and strategic drainage holes is the best way to go imo. Of course, a tarp and an ease-up tent will help you get thrrough the winter.

[cbailey]

Thanks Russell and Joe for your help!

[cbailey]

I moved the floor from the garage to the hearth this weekend. Completed the first course and first arch bricks. I'm hoping to work out the angles I need for the arch and cut a few in anticipation of getting back to the build this weekend.

I need some help in finding the AngleIzer software that is referenced in so many comments. I have the tool, but it did not come with a link to software. Google searches have been fruitless.

Thanks in advance.

[UtahBeehiver]

One of the posters, within the last year, posted a shareware site that had a link to this software. You can search through my posts where I commented on thanking him or her for providing the group the link.

[SableSprings]

I'm hoping your picture of the first course and arch bricks creates just an illusion showing you so close to that back wall. Mostly, I'm concerned about you having enough room to work the peel & pizza without whacking the wall behind you. You not only have to be able to have room in front of the oven for the full length of the peel, but at least a step or two more to swing it out and over to a prep surface. I hope I'm wrong here, but now's the time to think ahead and not get caught without enough working room.

[SableSprings]

Here's the link to the post Russell referred to for the Angle Izer software (not the first link...go down to post #4).

https://community.fornobravo.com/for...ndows-software

I tried the link in this thread and although it connects to the web archive site, my system says something like "Failed Network Error - unable to read file". It might simply might be some temporary glitch or something on my system. I'll keep trying. Possibly one of our members has the zip file in their archive...I'll check mine a bit later for you.

Also, check out JRPizza's very useful spreadsheet (noted in post #6 in that same thread).

[LeeBird]

Are you trying to build the inner arch with minimal/uniform shaped mortar joints? In my opinion you don’t need to be so fussy on the inner arch, it will be mostly covered by the outer arch and insulation. I am not a mathematician, so I came up with a template for the inner arch brick just like you. I cut them all and dry stacked them with wedges and moved my arch form up or down so they are tight on the inside with full brick/no cuts. I made sure that the height of arch and height of dome were within recommended ratio and mortared the arch first before the dome. Then I set my IT to follow my arch at the desired radius and the dome came together. And the outer arch covered the fat joints. Now, if you don’t like fat joints, I would address that issue at the outer arch.
My two cents
LeeP

[cbailey]

Mike, the photo does look like the back wall is very close. I do have enough space to work a peel. There is 7 feet and change from the landing to the garage wall. There is 4 feet from the landing to the back of the oven. I have 3 feet to spare.

Thank you for the link. I'll check it out. Also JR Pizza's. I missed that build. I appreciate the help immensely.

Lee, thanks for the input. I agree with you regarding the tapered arch approach tying into the dome. Like most contemplating a build I was uncomfortable with the FB instructions, particularly in describing the dome to inner arch connection. It wasn't until I found this forum, and the tapered arch concept demonstrated in Russell's, John's, and other builds, that it all began to make sense. It really was an "ah hah" moment.

Looking at your photos that is a gorgeous build! I love the keystone in the outer arch. I can't tell from the photos, but which approach did you take? Did you taper the bricks, using a minimalist approach to mortar?

I grew up in SLC. Where is Mountain Valley? Heber?

Thanks,

Cory

[UtahBeehiver]

FYI, the best placement for the pivot point for the IT is at floor elevation. Since your is raised off the floor by the thickness of the wood (I did this too but learned later the issues) it will affect the radius of the dome as you move up. You will have to made some length adjustments at the taper arch area to makes all the angles mate. Not a big deal but something you need to be aware of when the IT is not flush with the floor. I worked a little with Lee on his build, helping with some CaSi blanket and some SS sheeting. He lives in the Morgan area.