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42" Corner Pompeii in Coastal Virginia

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  • Denamontini
    replied
    Thanks for the link! I will study it!

    Leave a comment:


  • JRPizza
    replied
    Have a look at the linked post by Russell and the one below it I did. They talk about cutting the arch bricks with a 10" saw.
    https://community.fornobravo.com/for...351#post400351

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    You start with a full brick, each tapered arch brick is different and well and skewed cut, IE the right side of the Top Dead Center (TDC) brick will be different than the left side brick of TDC. So not advisable to precut the length. The IT allows you to set the length, top, bottom and both side angles intersections. A ten-inch saw is capable of cutting the taper arch bricks, you may need to but from both sides the hand feather any irregular spots or grind with an angle grinder with a diamond cup. As far as dome bricks, you will need to look a a jig to help you cut compound angles, there are several out there on the forum to look at. Many designed for the Harbor Freight wet saws.

    PS there are a number of no-weld ITs out on the forum, do an "IT" search
    Last edited by UtahBeehiver; 03-22-2019, 08:16 AM.

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  • Denamontini
    replied
    Here's a question...

    The inner arch... are the tapered arch bricks full length (9") bricks at the beginning and then we cut them down later according to our measurements with the slope of the IT? Or should we cut them a certain length to start? I feel like I am going to have a hard time tapering a full sized brick with my 10" saw. Any ideas suggestions? My saw blade will bevel to one side only.

    Anyone have any arch building jewels of wisdom?

    Leave a comment:


  • Denamontini
    replied
    Russell,

    Thanks for the info on the IT! You are a big help to everyone on this forum! I'll post a pic once the IT we designed is finished. We needed something we didn't have to weld.

    Jay,
    I am a total novice with no experience in any of the skills necessary to build a WFO. I read through a bunch of builds and posts and asked questions. It seemed like many experts were saying that best practice would be to integrate weep holes into the hearth, elevate the insulation off of the concrete in a way to keep it dry but also allow for an easy path for water to flow into the weep holes. I just copied the idea. As far as the insulation goes... we decided (based on everyone else's experience) on Foamglas for the bottom because it is waterproof and would eliminate many of the worries people had keeping the insulation dry during the building process. We used 2" of Cal Sci insulation simply because it was in stock and we could have it the same day. We would have had to wait for 1" or 1.5" boards. The Foamglas was $4.33/ sq ft. The 2" Thermo Gold 12 was $6.46/sq ft. We picked it up so we didn't pay for shipping In all, we ordered 18 sq ft of each. I was being cheap, and we made it work, but 21 sq ft would have been an easier matrix.

    Dena

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  • terratree
    replied
    Nice work.

    My IT in Pic. I have to "modify" it so the pivot is centered over the rotational axis

    March 16- cut and laid down upside down cheap mosaic tiles, 2" Foamglas, 2" Thermo 12 Gold Cal Sci board
    Some serious insulation. I do have spare white tiles lying around, is it wise to use these to prevent moisture wicking ?

    Regards

    Jay

    Leave a comment:


  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Here is one version of an IT that has most all the features you need. If at all possible, place the pivot point a the floor level or as close as possible. I see you have a block out in the floor so this should make it easier to make the pivot point at floor level. The centerline of the rod needs to intersect the center line of the thickness of your brick, IE if your brick is 2.5" the centerline of the rod will be at 1.25" down from the top of the "L" bracket. PS the IT need to be adjustable to correct any variables that crop up..

    Leave a comment:


  • Denamontini
    replied
    Now for the questions...

    Can someone explain to me the exact math of the IT? I am cooking one up in a 3D printer. (I am only printing a swivel base and the brick placement piece. The rod will be a .5 inch steel rod)
    Does the pivot/swivel have to be as close to the floor as possible? (i assume so) Also, i have read discussion on where the rod should attach to the L shaped brick placer. Should the rod be directed centered on the brick? or the bottom of the brick?

    Thanks in advance!

    Leave a comment:


  • Denamontini
    replied
    Hearth, insulation, floor, soldier course

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  • Denamontini
    replied
    Ground breaking, slab and base work...
    Last edited by Denamontini; 03-18-2019, 08:40 AM.

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  • Denamontini
    started a topic 42" Corner Pompeii in Coastal Virginia

    42" Corner Pompeii in Coastal Virginia

    Confession: I originally thought we could build this oven, start to finish, in 6 weeks for $1,500. HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA. And a few more Hahas.

    So here we are...
    Jan 6- dug the area for the slab
    Feb 3- learned how to use the concrete mixer and then poured the slab
    Feb 10- learned how cut rebar with an angle grinder, then blocked the walls, secured with rebar and poured concrete in some of the holes
    Feb 14- (instead of Valentine's Day Dinner) poured the concrete hearth, made weep holes
    March 12- laid the pattern of the brick floor and traced the dimensions in the garage
    March 13- learned how to cut fire brick with angle grinder... cut the bricks for the floor
    March 15- learned how to cut fire brick with a wet saw... cut the bricks for the soldier course
    March 16- cut and laid down upside down cheap mosaic tiles, 2" Foamglas, 2" Thermo 12 Gold Cal Sci board
    March 17- ate green eggs with a green beer and then set the 1/2 brick on it's side soldier course using the 3;1;1;1;(1.5 water) homebrew recipe.

    A genuine "THANKS" goes out to all of the people who have seen my pleas for help on other posts and who have helped! Also, thanks to everyone who has documented a build or commented on a build. There is just no way a regular person could do this without all of the combined knowledge on this forum.

    I am now very comfortably in a spot where i KNOW how much I really DON'T KNOW about the math, science, tools, skill set and philosophy of making this monster

    Let me get a few pics up...
    Last edited by Denamontini; 03-18-2019, 08:46 AM.
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