Thanks for the info!
I am not so sure that I want to backfill with perlite - I have to assume that doing so delves deeply into diminished return territory, especially given my 6" slab with 2" if CalSil. I have several cubic fit here that was to be mixed with the cement/lime - just debating if I should use it or just add a total of 4" of blanket.
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BeanAnimal's 42" build - Pittsburgh PA
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I filled my enclosure with perlite and I purchased it through a company called Silbrico here in Chicago but they also have a location in PA
Silbrico
4250 EAST BRADEN BLVD
EASTON PA 18040.
1-800-323-4287
They sell direct to this public here in chicago and it was much cheaper. Just an FYI
Ricky
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Thanks for the kind words - plenty of flaws - I mean beauty marks! I really gave up on preventing mortar stains inside the dome and floor. I have set enough stone and tile over the years to loathe the process of cleaning up haze and grout embedded in nooks and crannies - I embraced the rustic look on this build and have no regrets - that and I have saved the frustration for the stone veneer that will look like hell with mortar mess on it.Originally posted by Kvanbael View Postfirst of all: your oven looks great.
I’d think a heater doesn’t harm as long as it has a thermostat. And it shouldn’t replace a curing day.
I am one of those that started curing before vcrete, and now I am wondering if I should start curing all over, or maybe from day 3 or so. As those first fires hardly warm up the Outside of the blanket.
I am going to follow the curing schedule provided - and likely even more conservative than that. That is the reason I thought about adding the heater now - in hopes of being even more conservative. I know cracks are virtually impossible to prevent, but I want to minimize them as best as possible.
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first of all: your oven looks great.
I’d think a heater doesn’t harm as long as it has a thermostat. And it shouldn’t replace a curing day.
I am one of those that started curing before vcrete, and now I am wondering if I should start curing all over, or maybe from day 3 or so. As those first fires hardly warm up the Outside of the blanket.
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The kit assumes insulation blanket, rendering with 2" 5:1 of perlite concrete and then waterproofing with a (supplied) roll on acrylic.Originally posted by david s View PostI think it's safer to cure the oven after doing the vermicrete layer and before doing the outer render, because the vermicrete contains so much water the steam pressure can crack the outer shell. Waiting at least a week to let the sun and wind dry this layer is also advisable. However you should probably follow the instructions given by the manufacturer of the kit.
Because I am building a house around the dome, I don't see the need for the waterproofing and am not sure I want to even bother with the perlite render - unless there is good reason to do so.
I guess the big question is - just add more blanket or is there a good reason to do add the chicken wire and perlite render?
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I think it's safer to cure the oven after doing the vermicrete layer and before doing the outer render, because the vermicrete contains so much water the steam pressure can crack the outer shell. However as you are doing an enclosure you don't really need any perlcrete. Many builders have just placed dry perlite or vermiculite over the blanket, or as you've suggested another layer of blanket and skip the perlite.Last edited by david s; 06-29-2020, 01:48 PM.
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Pulled the arch form this morning and am extremely pleased with the result. I am going to let it sit for part of the day before moving on to the flue gallery. I don't want to bump the arch and have to start over!
Kit Deviation:
The kit is supplied with 2" of insulating blanket that is to be set under 2" of pcrete.
I have ordered an extra 1" of insulation blanket and am considering skipping the pctrete render - as I am enclosing the entire oven in a house. What is the consensus here, given that it will be enclosed under roof?
1) more blanket and no pcrete
or
2) just 3"blanket and the 2" pcrete?
One way or the other, I am going to get started in the blanket today.
Second Question:
The kit calls for fully completing the oven before the small curing fires. If the consensus is pcrete over blanket, is there any reason to cure the insulated dome before the pcrete render?
Is there any benefit on placing a small heater in the dome now - while I work on the insulation layers?Last edited by BeanAnimal; 06-29-2020, 07:05 AM.
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The sun came back out and I was able to pick up where I left off. The dome is complete, as well as the entry arch. Next up is then flue gallery and insulation. I had a lot of mortar left over after the arch so I spread it over the top of the dome. I do t know if this will help anything with regards to cracking, but I do t imagine it will hurt either.
They keystone pieces for the dome were not that hard to cut, I just eyeballed them and took a few round trips to the bridge saw. The little table top junker slings water everywhere and I dislike using it.
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Just beat a very heavy rain shower, hopefully they will pass and I can finish the dome and outer arch this afternoon.
I decided to skip the fiberglass form and hand place the final rows. The trammel s somewhat useless on the narrow brick. I did keep it in place as a gauge and used the top of the holder as a support when needed. I basically threw the in as fast as I could and fenangled previous bricks into final position as they began to stiffen a bit. I cut a few support sticks, but did not have to rely o them except for every. 3rd brick or so. They helped to prevent the whole row from wiggling lose as I set new bricks.
Sorry, the iPhone is turning some of the photos sideways when I post them.
I am happy to have ended up with a circle instead some weird ovoid or football shape.
As you can see, I gave up trying to stay on bond on this course. I did not want t start trimming bricks and obsessing about it.Last edited by BeanAnimal; 06-28-2020, 01:32 PM.
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I talked to a local sandstone quarry on Friday. They can cut me a custom landing area 12” deep and the width of the stand. 6” thick is not a problem, but I am afraid something that heavy is sure to break by the time I horse it into place. I need to call back and ask them if they can possibly make it “L” shaped 3” thick, but have no idea what kind of saws they use. I am guess a band saw, meaning that the answer is a flat “no”.
FWIW sandstone weighs roughly 150 pounds per cubic foot. 6 feet wide, 1 foot deep, 6 inches tall = 3 cubic feet = 450 pounds. 2-3 people can lift this into place, but it will be awkward. Cribbing under it a few inches at a time, engine hoist rental, diy pivot lever, good ol’ brute force. Still working this out.Last edited by BeanAnimal; 06-28-2020, 07:27 AM.
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I was able to get a bit of work done between rain showers on Saturday.
Course 9 completed! it went so easy that I got excited that 10 would be a breeze. The course 9 bricks stuck like they had magnets in them. Course 10 is nearly vertical and umm... it is going to be slow going. I got 3 of the ~15 bricks set and did a lot of swearing.
The kit came with a fiberglass inner form that can be raised up (small bottle jack or scissors jack, etc) to set the last few courses. I just can’t bring myself to use it because I want control over the brick face and mortar joints that will be visible. Not that anybody but me will ever crawl into the oven and look up at the last few courses.
The kit also cam with refractory castable cement to be used as a dome plug instead of a tiny course and keystone brick. I am not there yet, but it looks to be maybe 10” on the outside. Like the form, I can’t bring myself to use it and instead feel that I need to custom cut the left over brick for a last course and a for a perfect fit keystone.
Rain intermittently forecast for today.... for now here is yesterday’s progress. Going to try to close it off today, weather permitting.
Last edited by BeanAnimal; 06-28-2020, 09:03 AM.
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Yeah - I am with you, but at the same time, I am fond enough of the igloo shape to leave it and certainly don't want to see or tend to the inevitable cracks and waterproofing issues.Originally posted by GreenViews View PostLooking good! I've been deciding on my outer house design also.... and as I prepare to put up metal studs, I'm feeling remorse at the thought of covering up my precious round shape. To the point where I'm just considering making a roof and doing a stucco finish over my insulation, but I probably won't... Just feeling sad about covering up the masterpiece. Maybe this is unique to my experience? But looking great!
I need to wrap my head around a prep area also. I have limited space and aesthetics are going to be tough. Because I am putting a tiber frame over this - I think the house will have a flat sloped roof. A peaked roof under a peaked roof will look odd I think. Not sure if I want to use metal, concrete, or something else.
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Looking good! I've been deciding on my outer house design also.... and as I prepare to put up metal studs, I'm feeling remorse at the thought of covering up my precious round shape. To the point where I'm just considering making a roof and doing a stucco finish over my insulation, but I probably won't... Just feeling sad about covering up the masterpiece. Maybe this is unique to my experience? But looking great!
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