42 build in queensland

[SirClutzz]

Success!!!
I've cleaned up some of the excess, need to clean up the arc curve yet, but am super happy with the outcome. I still need to clean the surface abit with a scrubbing brush and some detergent. The castable even pulled some of the wax out of the mould, so might be a bit of clean up so I'll still be able to paint it later.
No looking forward to installing it now, it's heavy..

[SirClutzz]

Flue gallery complete and installed, massive thanks for all the help and advice on this one.

[SirClutzz]

Does anyone have any clues how to clean this blue stamp off the bricks. I've tried a few things on some scraps without any luck, including vinegar, acetone, Hydrochloric (muriatic) acid, and even a gel based paint stripper, with no luck.

[Gulf]

Have you tried water? I’m not trying to be funny. We recently used some water based markers to mark the brick to cut on the wet saw. I marked one incorrectly. I failed to remove the marks with a damp towel and set it aside not wanting the marks to show in the finished dome. The brick happened to catch a rain and I noticed later that the marks were barely visible.

[Sixto]

The flue gallery looks great, I wish I had been more confident to try casting different parts of the oven, like that for example. I used recycled brick in my build and when removing surface imperfections, I used the side of my saw blade and gently ground them off, it was like scraping butter from a piece of toast. Others have used a wire wheel attached to an electric drill I bet that would work as well for removing the stamp.

[UtahBeehiver]

You might want to consider covering the ceramic rope in the vent chamber with some high temp caulk so the fiber don't drop into the food area. There are several different products out there, Most silicon caulks have too low a temperature rating. Look at something like Kaowool modable caulking or similar. You will need something with high temps around the chimney too especially since it is single wall.

[Giovanni Rossi]

The build kit I used is from your country. I had a few leftover bricks with a stamp that looks very similar in color to your examples so I experimented with a few things. I could get most of the stamp off with Goof Off. Not sure if that brand in Aus has a different composition from the U.S. It easily cleaned the surface. You would probably need a stiff fine bristled brush to work it out of the crevices. Also had good success with a carbide stone rubbing brick. Probably just as much effort but no chemicals. Finally, a propane torch worked very well too...and was the most fun.

[SirClutzz]

Have you tried water? I’m not trying to be funny. We recently used some water based markers to mark the brick to cut on the wet saw. I marked one incorrectly. I failed to remove the marks with a damp towel and set it aside not wanting the marks to show in the finished dome. The brick happened to catch a rain and I noticed later that the marks were barely visible.

I have effectively tried that, bricks have all been cleaned to get lime haze off with vinegar and a drill mounted scrubbing brush, and then water and the brush to try clean the vinegar off.

The flue gallery looks great, I wish I had been more confident to try casting different parts of the oven, like that for example. I used recycled brick in my build and when removing surface imperfections, I used the side of my saw blade and gently ground them off, it was like scraping butter from a piece of toast. Others have used a wire wheel attached to an electric drill I bet that would work as well for removing the stamp.

I did try a few attachments on a dremel, wirewheel didn't do anything, but have some little grinding wheels that did work, but do damage the surface. If the don't burn off, I'll probably do this inside the oven. I want to avoid that in the entry if possible, where you can see them up close.

The build kit I used is from your country. I had a few leftover bricks with a stamp that looks very similar in color to your examples so I experimented with a few things. I could get most of the stamp off with Goof Off. Not sure if that brand in Aus has a different composition from the U.S. It easily cleaned the surface. You would probably need a stiff fine bristled brush to work it out of the crevices. Also had good success with a carbide stone rubbing brick. Probably just as much effort but no chemicals. Finally, a propane torch worked very well too...and was the most fun.

I've never heard of goof off so I'll have a look at that. The stone is a good idea. The supplier suggested a "cermamic cup disc" on an angle grinder which I've not been able to find, unless he actually means a diamond one, which I already have and is very aggressive.

I am really hoping that it all burns off tbh, but if not, looking for a plan B..

[SirClutzz]

You might want to consider covering the ceramic rope in the vent chamber with some high temp caulk so the fiber don't drop into the food area. There are several different products out there, Most silicon caulks have too low a temperature rating. Look at something like Kaowool modable caulking or similar. You will need something with high temps around the chimney too especially since it is single wall.

the refactory supplier recommended a product calls corfix 900.

From the supplier "We have some material similar to high temperature mortar (corfix)"

I have a tube of some stuff called corfix 900, which I could find no reference to online anywhere, the refactory guy suggested it when I asked for high temp caulk "We have some material similar to high temperature mortar (corfix)" so I'm hoping it's suitable. I'll have a look for the Kaowool modable

I've got the rope between the flue and the gallery also, it's currently exposed also, and I'll most like get a stainless cover ring cut for that.

[SirClutzz]

I've been a bit undecided with the floors thermal break, I've seen others where they have put a bit of stainless in the gap. I really didn't want the different material in the floor like, partially for the look, and partially due door placement. I figured having a seam running at that point could interfere with the door when you place it. So I decided to try a hidden thermal break. I've cut a channel in the bottom of the bricks wide enough for a piece of calsil board to sit in. I know it's not a complete thermal break, but I think it's better then no break at all and I'm happy to try it all. I figured worst case, the bricks might crack at that point, but I have enough spares to try something else later if I do have a failure.

Now I'm just waiting for the oven to air dry a bit before insulation.

[SirClutzz]

been a bit quiet of late, as we went away for a week. Before leaving I finished off the flue installation, including the roofing penetration, flashing, DekTite, etc. As there is such little fall on the roof, we've installed a pan flashing for the full depth of the flue, which it then also goes through. This stop water building up behind the flue, in the roof corrugations. Hope this stops any potential leaking.

I also started some low temp curing with a gas burner. Brought the oven peak upto about 60, then 80, 100, and finally 120 degrees C for a few hours over successive days. I don't want to take it any higher without insulation to avoid cracking, but figured pushing a bit more moisture out before insulation might be worth it, so the insul doesn't jsut soak it up.

Anyway, I've start with the insul blanket earlier in the week, but I'm just short, so picking up more today to complete a total of 75mm of blanket. I might also do a 25mm of perlcrete yet, but I've not decided on that yet. If I do, it will actually be to bring up the final render size to match the rear edge of the slab (as it's curved with the shape of the oven, then then square). This should give me the look I want, and also not have any shelf behind the oven that will just catch water, and potentially work it's way under the oven.

[UtahBeehiver]

Be really careful with the gas burner and a rubber hose in an enclosed area. Too high a temp and the hose could get compromised and then there is a serious issue.

The pecrete will allow you to "round out" imperfections from the ceramic fiber laydown and also gives you a solid base for the render/stucco.

[david s]

Apart from melting the flexible hose and causing a gas leak the burner probably doesn’t have a flame failure device which can result in filling the hot chamber with unignited gas.

[Gulf]

We recently were able to safely achieve the recommended heating schedule ( over 6 days up to a saturated 550F) in a new 36" brick oven using only a charcoal chimney starter. This one is stainless steel.

EDIT: One can be homemade from a large bean can but, do not use the more common galvanized starter chimneys.

[SirClutzz]

thanks for the feedback on the gas burner, I was never intending to take this to a high temp doing this. While the top of the dome hit 120, the floor level never lifted above ambient, around 30. I didn't think of using a charcoal chimney, and leaving it in that (rather then just using to light it). I do have one, but I do think it's a cheap gal one. However I think I also have an off cut from the old flue, in stainless, so I could try to make something up.