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BrritSki's Build in Italy

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  • james
    replied
    Re: BrritSki's Build in Italy

    Ciao Rog,

    Your vermiculite layer came out very smooth. Nice. How would you describe the Italian vermiculite? Was it fine, or a little bit lit porridge (Scottish Oats?)?

    You oven will be fine using Portland cement, rather than refractory cement. That layer just won't get that hot.

    Keep going.

    How's the weather when it isn't raining?
    James

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  • BrritSki
    replied
    Re: BrritSki's Build in Italy

    I would have gone for a herringbone with square bricks, but a rectangular herringbone doesn't look right to me - I am a genuine Virgo and very obsessive about detail as my wife can confirm

    I understand about the peel catching an edge and I've been very careful to ensure there are no raised front edges that will cause a problem.

    As you say, this is the really exciting stage.

    Ciao Rog

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  • christo
    replied
    Re: BrritSki's Build in Italy

    Looks good. I was really excited when my oven got to that stage.

    Any particular reason why you didn't go with the herringbone pattern for the floor? I got advice that it helps to prevent the pizza peel from hanging on a brick edge and so far it's working very well for me.

    Christo

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  • BrritSki
    replied
    Re: BrritSki's Build in Italy

    Well, our last visitors have now gone and no more for a while and we had a nice holiday last week in Denmark for my svigrmor's (mother-in-law) 90th birthday, so it was back to work today.

    I laid out the brick floor and marked what cuts were needed and then assembled my brand-new brick cutter and set to work. Everything was fine except that I couldn't believe how much water it needed - I had to setup a drip-feed to keep it topped up. It was only when I removed the tray to empty the mud that I realised that the tray was cracked. Taped up now and it's fine.

    So, all the floor bricks are cut and also about 40 bricks cut in half, so I will have more have enough for the first 2 courses of the dome. Attached photo shows the dry layout - I will lay the first dome course (not soldier course) on top of the floor, so I'm not worried about the rough finish - that will be hidden under the insulation.

    Mud was all saved of course and I've pounded some of the brick offcuts and added that and some sand to make a nice paste tomorrow for laying the floor and the first course.

    Ciao Rog
    Last edited by BrritSki; 08-12-2008, 09:37 AM. Reason: correct typos

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  • BrritSki
    replied
    Re: BrritSki's Build in Italy

    Thanks to rlf5 and berryst for their replies - I bit the bullet and did the job yesterday evening !

    Photos of recent stages of the build have been added to the Album: "BrritSki's Pix".

    Progress has been slower than expected with various diversions with visitors and other vital jobs like extracting and cutting a pile of wood for the winter, car at garage for new exhaust pipe, tile/brick cutter being broken when I unpacked it and needing replacing, thunderstorms etc etc etc.

    Roger

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  • berryst
    replied
    Re: BrritSki's Build in Italy

    Roger
    Portland cement should be find. 5-1 is the generally accepted ratio. It looks like it would not hold up but in fact it has a high compressive strength...like 100psi. The oven is probably 1 to 2 psi.
    berryst
    by the way your photos are beautiful how about pics of the build?l

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  • rlf5
    replied
    Re: BrritSki's Build in Italy

    1) I believe everyone here used portland cement or regular mortar.

    2) Yes

    3) I believe its by volume.

    4) Thick, not runny at all. More or less holds its shape when not disturbed.

    Leave a comment:


  • BrritSki
    replied
    Re: BrritSki's Build in Italy

    Originally posted by BrritSki View Post

    1. The instructions say Portland cement, the bag of Italian vermiculite says use refractory cement - I'd prefer Portland, will this be OK ?

    2. Is the vermicucrete strong when it's set - it will have the full weight of the oven on it ?

    3. Is the ratio of vermiculite:cement 5:1 by volume or weight

    4. How would you define "oatmeal consistency" to a limey ?
    Any answers on any of the above or do I just go for it when it has stopped raining ?

    Christo: thanks for the answer on thermometers...

    Ciao Roger

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  • christo
    replied
    Re: BrritSki's Build in Italy

    I think most of us have had their ovens at 900 F plus. 900 degrees you have to be pretty skilled not to burn your crusts.

    I think something in the 1100 F range should be plenty. It would be a crematorium at that temperature...

    Christo

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  • BrritSki
    replied
    Re: BrritSki's Build in Italy

    Sorry, another ?

    Is an infra-red thermometer reading to 365C (690F) high enough ?

    If not, what max. temp should I be looking for ?

    Thanks again Roger

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  • BrritSki
    replied
    Re: BrritSki's Build in Italy

    I have now completed the concrete part of the base and hearth (photos to follow soon) and will be ready to mix and pour the Vermicucrete insulation layer on Monday.

    A few questions though:

    1. The instructions say Portland cement, the bag of Italian vermiculite says use refractory cement - I'd prefer Portland, will this be OK ?

    2. Is the vermicucrete strong when it's set - it will have the full weight of the oven on it ?

    3. Is the ratio of vermiculite:cement 5:1 by volume or weight

    4. How would you define "oatmeal consistency" to a limey ?

    TIA for advice...

    Ciao Roger

    Leave a comment:


  • berryst
    replied
    Re: BrritSki's Build in Italy

    Very cool, you are going to have sooooo much fun on this build

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  • BrritSki
    replied
    Re: BrritSki's Build in Italy

    Slab has now gone off (surface is a bit powdery but my pro. builder friend says it's OK) and visitors gone, so the blocks are all in place (see pic in "BrritSki's Pix" album).

    Design changed slightly to allow for a change in position of the barbecue by moving the front columns to line up with the sidewalls rather than stick out by a couple of inches.

    These front columns are still free-standing though as a) it's difficult to tie in 50x20 blocks and b) I didn't want the stand to come out any further. At the moment it's 1500mm wide and 1400mm deep, but if required I can gain another 100-150mm at the back because of the sloping terrace wall.

    To anchor the front columns to the rest of the structure I cut a notch and laid a thick galvanised-steel wire butterfly-tie (home-made) on each side at the top of each course. Both these holes will be filled, so that should make it nice and solid.

    The other slight change to the FB plan is that I will use a pre-fab reinforced concrete joist to bridge the gap between the columns rather than angle iron and a single course concrete block. This will make it easier to access the wood store amongst other things.

    Rebar is all in place too and I've left it standing proud so the reinforcing mesh for the hearth slab can be attached to it.

    Slab was nice and level, but blocks aren't precisely the same so there's a couple that rock and there's a couple of mm height difference left to right, but that can be corrected when I lay the hearth slab and shouldn't be noticeable. Neither will the gaps in the blocks once the outside is stuccoed.

    Great fun, but my it's hot ! Roger
    Last edited by BrritSki; 07-10-2008, 09:54 AM. Reason: Lat para added

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  • Frances
    replied
    Re: BrritSki's Build in Italy

    Lovely part of the world anyway!

    The Gaudi style finish intriuges me, too. I'll be watching this thread closely...

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  • BrritSki
    replied
    Re: BrritSki's Build in Italy

    Ah no, waife informs that I should know Poggi as we have driven through it

    Ciao Roger

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