36" build in coastal VA

[nlinva]

Yes, I realized that firebrick splits are not the cheapest option. How about if I use some additional pieces of slate to put it on? I have plenty of those lying around.

Whatever I end up using, is it better to fill the whole space, or should I rest my landing on a few pieces, with the rest being air, which might be a better insulator than the material?

[david s]

Firebrick splits are an expensive method of just elevating the space. A vermicrete slab, concrete pavers or a cast concrete slab of whatever thickness you require would be my solution. That area won’t see too much heat.

[Giovanni Rossi]

That was my thought or firebrick splits (1.25") if you needed a little more, since you're already using CaSil under.

[nlinva]

That is a good idea! Would save a lot of mess and effort. Thanks!

[rsandler]

Insulating firebricks, maybe? I won't post the link in deference to our hosts/forum policy, but a quick google search turned up an Amazon listing for a 6-pack of 9"x4.5"x0.75" insulating firebricks. Doubtless there are other sources if I found that one so easily.

[nlinva]

I need somewhere between 3/4" and 1", I believe.

[Giovanni Rossi]

How much more height do you need?

[nlinva]

I have another question for the forum experts. For my vent landing, I'm going to place both the landing and the arch on a third layer of CalSil. Putting the slate piece on top of that will not put it high enough, so I need some additional height. I could try to cut CalSill to reduce its thickness, but I worry that would be messy and uneven.

I am thinking I could get some perlite and make perlcrete as a bed for the slate piece. The idea would be to build the vent arch first, so the perlcrete has natural borders on 3 sides (both sides of the arch and the oven front) and I can temporarily put up a board on the front. Then I can pour the perlcrete and add or reduce exactly enough to make the slate piece level with the oven floor. Does that sound feasible?

[nlinva]

Laid another 2+ courses. I'm definitely having to use sticks to hold bricks in place now. I also realized, belatedly, that the closer one gets to vertical, the less the taper should be. The first half of the current highest row is a bit over-tapered. It's not a real issue, but my bricklaying is definitely not winning any beauty prizes! :-) On the plus side, I do feel I'm slowly acquiring a feel for basic masonry.

I estimate I have 3 1/2 courses left, plus the plug. I am close to reaching the limit of the bevel on my jig, but my saw can also tilt, so I'm going to experiment with that for the last few courses.

I am quite pleased that my hearth slab is long and wide enough that I can walk on it all around the dome, which makes it easy to get in position to place the next brick. I am also happy to have a roof already in place, but it does mean I can't stand up straight, so my back gets quite sore after a while.

[nlinva]

I sawed down the pool table slate with my angle grinder. Took a bit of effort, but worked pretty well in the end. I cut off all the edges (which had holes for the pockets), then cut the front landing, which will cover the entire width of the hearth slab, and the vent landing, which is of course much narrower. I have a third piece remaining, which I will divide into two pieces to go on either side of the vent landing for additional work space.

[JRPizza]

Mine arrived dented very close to the end which effected the join - I had then send me a new one free. The old one is at a friend's cabin in the woods

[nlinva]

Yes, mine was packed very well for shipping as well, so the damage occurred pre-shipping. In my case, I can put it up above the roof, facing the back, so I don't think it will annoy me every time I see it, and I won't see it while working at the oven. But I do think I'll try suction cupping it out.

[Giovanni Rossi]

That's some pretty significant dentage! I don't know what's with these companies. I had a similar problem but diff manufacturer. Mine were packed very well for shipping, so I assume the damage occurred in the warehouse. They have to know that if you're spending extra for SS you're planning to leave it exposed. I recommend new builders make it clear when ordering that the flue will be exposed and they want clean product. I was really pressed for time or I would have returned them. It's not like single wall pipe that you can hammer out with a rubber mallet. I was able suction cup most of the dents and position them to be less noticeable to the casual observer. BUT, I SEE THEM EVERY TIME I'M AROUND THE OVEN! I was able to to negotiate a 20% refund.

[david s]

Because the dent is near the end of the pipe it should be fairly easy to knock most of it back into shape. Place the dented part to the rear where it will be less visible.

[nlinva]

Another question: my chimney pieces arrived today, and one of them is dented (see picture). I can put this piece (I have two equal-size pieces), at the top, which will be above the roof, so it will not be particularly visible to the casual observer. These are 6" inner diameter, double-wall, stainless steel chimney pieces (Shasta Vent).

As I see it, I have 3 options:

1. Just leave as is. I'm not that concerned with the cosmetic imperfection, as long as the thinner insulation at the dent location is not an issue.
2. Using some kind of suction cup, try to un-dent it. This will be prettier cosmetically, but presumably will create an air void inside the double wall; is that an issue? And how likely is it that using a suction cup will even work?
3. Send back to the seller, asking for an undented piece. This is extra work for everyone involved (i.e. me, the seller, and the shipper), with dubious benefits. Is having an undented chimney worth that extra work? And what do I do if the replacement is also dented?

Any suggestions would be much appreciated!!