Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island
Bruce,
The belt/strap is to counteract the weight of the wet concrete pushing the forms out. You will get it once you mix 60-70 bags of concrete, there is a lot of force pushing out on the forms.
Eric
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The Greco's WFO - Long Island
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Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island
That "tool" looks awesome. How did you build/anchor it?
This is way off, and from much earlier in your posts, but I don't get the belt wrapped around the forms. I see this used frequently and I am skeptical. I was not a physics major, but it seems to me that a belt wrapped around the entire structure is the worst thing you can do to keep it square. It would seem that most of the pressure would be on the corners, trying to push the square into a circle. I know with all the engineers who have completed their ovens and not pointed this out that I must be missing something, but can someone explain how this would help, rather than encourage "bowing?"
Thanks. Your work looks great! I get to pour my hearth slab tomorrow.
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Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island
Finished my inner arch today and started the 4th course. I cut an angle into the inner bricks of the arch to help in the draw of smoke. Not sure if it will help, but in my head I think it will, so that is what I did. I realize this will create some door issues later, but I will deal with that at some point in the future.
Some conclusions I have come to thus far.....
1. It really helps to keep things moist. Letting mortar dry quickly is a bad thing. (this really should be stressed more)
2. It is difficult to get squared bricks to form a nice circle. (I am not tapering)
3. I like my version of the "tool"
4. This is even more fun than I thought it would be. (My wife thinks the stupid smurk that is constantly on my face when I am working on the oven is funny)
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Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island
I noticed in your earlier post that you plan on building a 15.5" height dome but your soldier course was not cut with an angle on top. Do you think this will make it difficult to get the anticapted lower dome?
I used a wedge brick in between the first and second course to achieve the desired angle and build the 15.5" height.
Was this crack a result of things not being kept moist while drying?
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Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island
You will probably sleep better if you replace these bricks. I've had some nightmares of my oven crumbling about the time when I was cutting and mortaring the bricks for the dome-to-arch transition.
I noticed in your earlier post that you plan on building a 15.5" height dome but your soldier course was not cut with an angle on top. Do you think this will make it difficult to get the anticapted lower dome?
~Bob
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Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island
I am in the process of doing the 3rd course. I set these bricks and had to go out for a few hours. Things were fairly moist when i left as I misted things with the hose before I left. When I returned I noticed this small crack. The brick has not moved at all.
My questions are, what did I do that caused this to happen? How do I prevent this as I proceed?
I am using heat stop 50 if that makes any difference and I know these outside joints are bigger than they recommend.
Do I just cover with mortar to fix, or do I need to remove the brick? The brick seems to be well seated right now.
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Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island
I put mine directly on the FB Board. The sand/fireclay is to make sure the floor is level. There is a lot more forgiveness in the dome that can be filled with mortar. So unless you have a major difference between boards (I had about 1/8 inch), it won't affect the soldier course.
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Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island
Several people recommend that you shouldn't mortar the soldier course to the floor to allow for expansion and contraction. The weight of the dome is sufficient to hold itself in place.
I, on the other hand, went the other way cause I live in an earthquake prone country. I wanted to make sure the dome would not slide out of position if ever one does hit us.
If you search the forums, there are varied opinions to this matter but I chose stability over flexibility. If you plan on an enclosure, maybe you can buttress key positions of the dome to hold it in place. If shifting and earthquakes won't be an issue, I don't see the need to mortar the soldier course down. Giving the dome opportunity to expand and contract freely will in the end help with its ability to cope with the periodic heating and cooling cycles.
That's just my two cents. Hope this helps.
Raffy
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Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island
I did a test run of the soldier course. I am ready to start with mortar tomorrow as long as work does not get in the way.
Here is the question.. Do I place mortar on the FB insulating board and place the soldier course on that or do I place the soldier course on a sand/fire clay mix?
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Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island
Hey DS,,
Looks like your off to a good start on the floor...
Cheers
Mark
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Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island
Finished the floor today and did a test run with the soldier course (which I am also placing on top of the FB board).
I rented a wet saw for one day and decided to cut as much as possible leaving the rest to be done with an angle grinder as I go. It was dark when I finished so complete floor pic will have to wait until tomorrow.
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Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island
Hi Ann
Please view and/or download the Pompeii oven building instructions from this website. They are free. There you'll find a materials list and step by step construction information.
Many/most of us had no previous brick masonry experience prior to starting our builds. If you can follow a recipe, have a strong back, a occasional helper or two and some free time, you can build a WFO.
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Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island
Hi,
I live on Long Island too. I was wondering if you could tell me what supplies were needed and how much expertise would you say a person needs?
Thanks,
Ann
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