The Greco's WFO - Long Island

[dsgreco]

Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island

I did use the baskets for the final proofing. I lined them with cloth which I lightly brushed with olive oil and dusted with flour.

[Dino_Pizza]

Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island

Wow, the Pugliese looks great! Did you use those baskets for final proofing? You've got a nice rise and airy insides. Sounds like a good plan (bread baking) while you wait for better weather.
Cheers, Dino

[ThisOldGarageNJ]

Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island

Set up the tent !!!!

[dsgreco]

Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island

The forms have been off for a couple weeks now and the stand and hearth are tucked away for the winter. I thought about setting up a tent and working through the winter. Then I decided I am in no rush. I am going to work on the floor and arches over the winter in my garage. I have also been working on some bread recipes that I plan on using once this baby is complete.

The pics are of the finished stand and hearth; and a Pugliese i made today using a sourdough starter.

[Dino_Pizza]

Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island

I'm with Greg, 2 full days should be fine but I'd leave the brace on the bottom underneath longer to ensure no sagging.

[glindhout]

Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island

Greco,

I couldn't wait to get started on my WFO, so I took the forms off after two full days of curing and had no probs... I know Dino recommended 5 days, but I'm not sure if it's necessary to wait that long or not. Just my two cents!

Greg

[ThisOldGarageNJ]

Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island

glad to see you switched to the 2 x 6 forms,, I used the straps on my form as well,, Nice job so far,, Keep up the great work....

Cheers
Mark

[dsgreco]

Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island

Thanks Dino. I cant wait to break off the forms and see that baby!

[Dino_Pizza]

Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island

Looks great Greco! I waited 5 days for curing, broke off the forms and started measuring out the center lines, where the oven center will be, where the arches will be...etc... You'll referring to often to that center chalk line (or permanent marker or etched in mark) for the center of the oven floor, both arches, finding the middle-line for the chimney and so on. Since you've got a cool corner hearth (I love that look) you'll want to be accurate.

I've been happy with the 2" FB board so I know you will be as well. Good job on the rebar too. I can tell you'll have nice oven already. Cheers, Dino

[dsgreco]

Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island

The hearth pour is complete! I sprayed the hearth with a little water today and covered it with plastic. The hearth sounded alive, like it was drinking the water when a misted it . Hope that was ok. I checked to see if things remained level, which they have. I attached a pic of the support i used under my backer board. At first I had one support, but added the second when I noticed a slight sag in the front about 1/2 way through the pour. I am not sure why I didnt add the second support in the first place. Things seem to have held fine and are level so I think I am ok. I am not sure who on the forum came up with the idea to use the strap, but it was a great idea to hold the form together. Thanks.

[dsgreco]

Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island

I picked up 2x6 and an extra roll of duct tape today. I also rented a small mixer for the weekend for $45. I have a long strap with a ratchet to wrap around the form to prevent bowing. I will post more pics after the weekend.

Thanks for the advice everyone. This forum is really a very good thing.

[jmhepworth]

Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island

I used 2x6s to form the hearth stand pretty much as Greg describes it. The other thing I did (as recommended by my concrete contractor friend) was to drill a hole through the 2x6 on each side of the frame and ran some wire back and forth through the holes on each side. I used pieces of scrap rebar to hold it in place and then twisted the rebar to pull the sides in. That eliminated the tendancy of the form to bow with the outward force of the concrete.

[glindhout]

Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island

I think that's a really good idea -- pick up (4) 2x6 at your local home depot, and you'll be much better off -- I think most of us had a slightly thicker slab than you planned. I ended up going 4.5 inches, and just positioned the boards 1" below the top of the block.

Greg

[dsgreco]

Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island

I had planned on making the slab 3.5" due to the fact that the 2x4 i have is really 3.5" and that is what i was going to use to make the form. I have now reconsidered and think I will go thicker. I am thinking 5-6". I will just have to pick up a few pieces of wider wood.

[splatgirl]

Re: The Greco's WFO - Long Island

Technically, the angle iron doesn't need to be there at all, as a rebar reinforced slab can bridge that opening without issue and your slab will be bridging a bigger distance than that across the base anyway. But it won't hurt to have it there and it's one less brace piece you need to cut for your formwork.
BUT...I think a hearth slab that is only 3.5" thick is a bad idea structurally, especially with that rebar spacing. Why only 3.5"? IMO, it's not worth taking a chance with that thin of a slab when it's what the whole rest of your build depends on. For reference, the minimum thickness for a sidewalk, driveway, patio, etc (which do not bear nearly as much load as the literal ton of bricks and mortar that will be your oven), is 4", keeping in mind that delivered ready-mix is typically of a higher and more consistent quality than what you'll get with bagged mix.
Another inch or two is basically the same amount of work and just a few more bucks. If you proceed with your plan for that thickness, I would add rebar mesh and decrease your bar spacing to 6" grid.

Getting your rebar grid suspended in the slab is harder with a thinner slab, but the "professional" method is typically just to pull up on it a bit once you've got some concrete in the form to get it up off the bottom. This also has the effect of getting mud to flow into any voids that may be around/under the bar.

Rent the biggest mixer you can haul. You'll still be in for a bunch of really physical work, but a lot less than trying to mix 40+ bags by hand.

Small gaps in the formwork, up to 1/2" or more won't matter. If they do, you're mixing the mud way too wet.