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  • oasiscdm
    replied
    Not to be a party pooper. I think it is very possible with a shit load of patience. My first oven, i used very little mortar and that was predominantly to hold bricks in place until the whole row was completed. I also used a small amount to set the first few bricks on the next course. My new build will also be similar but maintain a brick to brick fit with no V from side to side is very doable with the right saw and making a compound mitre brick tray. This one i will make templates for each row. II used only about a 2 ltr icecream container of High temperature cement in my first build.

    Lets see how i go this time as i am attempting a mortarless brick to brick fit. To hold in place i will cut two corners horizontal and vertical for a little mortar to simply hold in place but am also considering an adjustable spring steel loop for each course. watch this space.

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    That is up to you and if you have the time resource and a good wet saw, have at it. But when all done, only the inside of the dome is what we see and mortar is a friend to will fill in the backside the is eventually covered with insulation and final coating never to be seen again. I all for tight inner joints.

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  • MFA
    replied
    Utahbeehiver,

    No particular reason except the engineering challenge. I have not taken into account Gulf’s point about sealing and heat transfer. I am a couple years away from building and just starting to build my knowledge base to make sure I construct a pizza oven that will last and functions well. The fit of tapering is just I think it looks better and I will feel better knowing that I was able to do it.

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  • Gulf
    replied
    Here is a good discussion from a few years ago. Is Mortarless Realistic? I'm not sure if the point was brought out in this particular thread. But, I and others believe that the 100% contact which mortar creates between the bricks aids in faster heat equalization through out the dome". On firing, the apex of the dome will get to carbon clearing temperatures first. The slowest to heat are the lower courses of the dome. Imo brick which are just touching will not transfer that heat down to the lower courses as efficiently as would happen with mortared courses

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    There have been a couple builders talk about it but I do not think they ever executed a mortarless build. It is a lot of work to bevel/taper at least 3 sides and maybe 4. Do you want to do this for a particular reason?

    Update, after Gulf posted the link, the gray matter remembered the build by LES, I believe the dome was almost completely mortarless.
    Last edited by UtahBeehiver; 06-26-2020, 02:21 PM.

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  • MFA
    replied
    Hello all,

    Has anyone attempted to build a mortarless dome with only cuts that fit in all directions?

    Thank you.

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Deejayho did a nice calculator in excel. Attached is zip file

    Pompeii_dome_calculator_v4.zip

    Leave a comment:


  • GreenViews
    replied
    Originally posted by andrewe View Post

    An update to this. I created my own program to calculate the tilt cuts on each course for a non spherical dome (elliptical). If anyone is interested let me know. Basically the program gives me a read out of the angles I need to cut and a preview of what the curve should look like. Something like the photo I attached.
    Hi, Andrewe, I would be very interested in your program for these cuts. I am half way done with the build for the base under my oven and working on designing my actual oven. Thanks, Tom

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  • daniel679
    replied
    The figures for the rough number of bricks to buy is slightly confusing. I'm getting 133 for the dome and 25 for the floor (wide edge) for a 36" oven with 2.5x4.5x4.5 bricks. The 25 figure explicitly states "Assumes exposed face dimension of 4.5 x 9.0 inches" which means twice the size of the brick dimensions entered, which confuses me. Does that mean I need 133 bricks with the size 2.5x4.5x4.5 and 25 bricks with the size 2.5x4.5x9? Or 158 bricks 2.5x4.5x4.5? Or something else altogether?

    If someone could share an estimate for how many bricks are required (and what size) for the arch+front part of a 36" oven, that would be very helpful.

    Thanks! This forum and spreadsheet are very helpful.

    Leave a comment:


  • andrewe
    replied
    Originally posted by andrewe View Post

    Sorry for another reply, I just got out of school and I'm restarting where I left off.

    Will adjusting the radius and height of each course affect the jig calculations (will they be off) ?

    Probably the best solution for me would be to be able to have a secondary radius option (the height from floor to ceiling) and use that as the second radius in an ellipse to calculate everything. I am still not sure how every calculation works in the sheet. If you have any ideas about how this would be implemented, I'd love to hear your suggestions!
    An update to this. I created my own program to calculate the tilt cuts on each course for a non spherical dome (elliptical). If anyone is interested let me know. Basically the program gives me a read out of the angles I need to cut and a preview of what the curve should look like. Something like the photo I attached.

    Leave a comment:


  • andrewe
    replied
    Originally posted by deejayoh View Post

    If you know the shape of the arc you want for the side profile, you should be able do this by adjusting the radius and height of each course in columns H and J
    Sorry for another reply, I just got out of school and I'm restarting where I left off.

    Will adjusting the radius and height of each course affect the jig calculations (will they be off) ?

    Probably the best solution for me would be to be able to have a secondary radius option (the height from floor to ceiling) and use that as the second radius in an ellipse to calculate everything. I am still not sure how every calculation works in the sheet. If you have any ideas about how this would be implemented, I'd love to hear your suggestions!

    Leave a comment:


  • andrewe
    replied
    Originally posted by deejayoh View Post

    If you know the shape of the arc you want for the side profile, you should be able do this by adjusting the radius and height of each course in columns H and J
    Thanks, that's actually very obvious, I can't believe I didn't think of it. Great spreadsheet btw, thanks a ton!

    Leave a comment:


  • deejayoh
    replied
    Originally posted by andrewe View Post
    I'm wondering if there's a way to incorporate a radius taper (for low vault style ovens)? Anyone know how this can be achieved? Thanks!
    If you know the shape of the arc you want for the side profile, you should be able do this by adjusting the radius and height of each course in columns H and J

    Leave a comment:


  • andrewe
    replied
    I'm wondering if there's a way to incorporate a radius taper (for low vault style ovens)? Anyone know how this can be achieved? Thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • deejayoh
    replied
    Originally posted by Rocko Bonaparte View Post
    For the jig setup, is the difference between the current and previous tilt angles the angle I use on my cutting jig to get the appropriate bevel?
    the tilt that's in the model is the total tilt, if i'm understanding the question correctly

    Leave a comment:

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