cobblerdaves build

[cobblerdave]

G’day
woops done it again

[cobblerdave]

Gday
what happened there? Dunno
anyway where was I. Under the grill to toast the toppings. Crumple some feta over the top and Yummly.

[cobblerdave]

G’day
If you fire the oven up to dry it don’t waste the heat. Typically the fire doesn’t burn for more than hour way below pizza temps and saturation and all those other things. But still I hate wasting that heat!
Anything you want to cook put in a baking dish and wrap it around in cooking foil so it’s completely sealed. Put it on a few of those crockery feet they use on pot plants to keep it off the oven floor and leave in in the oven for a few hours. Can’t burn as the oven is cooling off. Typically some meat goggle Greek lamb kleftico.
Here some foccasia just a basic bread dough really but has a cake like consistency. Looks a little pale cause it’s cooked under sealed foil but all’s good. Top with salami tomatoe onion and pop under the grill

[MarkJerling]

G’day
You can get a long way keeping any rain off the hearth but one thing you can’t fight is humidity. Firebricks just soak up moisture from the air. I’ve just come to except that some times your oven will damp regardless of your efforts.
Regards Dave

Yes, you're right. Luckily, we don't usually have super high humidity. But, a friend of mine gave me some good advice: He said I should fire up the oven at least once a month, even of not used in winter so as to help drive out moisture. Our bigger problem is driving rain, i.e. rain with wind which is why I need to keep the rain off my landing.

[cobblerdave]

Hi Dave
I used Hebel like you for my hearth insulation. Like you, I've found that the fire bricks coming to far out is a problem with the rain. The solution I've decided on (that works) is to have an insulated door and an "outer" door to act as a weather shield. I'm working on that outer door now. The temporary "test" one I cobbled together from scrap works well.
Regards,
Mark

G’day
You can get a long way keeping any rain off the hearth but one thing you can’t fight is humidity. Firebricks just soak up moisture from the air. I’ve just come to except that some times your oven will damp regardless of your efforts.
Regards Dave

[MarkJerling]

Hi Dave
I used Hebel like you for my hearth insulation. Like you, I've found that the fire bricks coming to far out is a problem with the rain. The solution I've decided on (that works) is to have an insulated door and an "outer" door to act as a weather shield. I'm working on that outer door now. The temporary "test" one I cobbled together from scrap works well.
Regards,
Mark

[cobblerdave]

G’day narcosi
No there is no insulation between the oven and the entrance structure. No thermal break it’s just an old school oven. The entrance is plain brick commons they are heat resistant enough for use outside the oven proper and most importantly have a measure of water resistance.
Fire bricks are definitly not water resistant infact will soak up the water real fast. Chuck one in a bucket of water chuck a common in another. The firebrick will fizz like soda water as it the displaced air is forced out of the brick. The common will just sit there....
Enjoy making your oven
regards Dave

[narcosi]

Hi, may i ask some questions?

did you insulate between oven and arch/vent?
are those fire bricks on the arch and chimney? or standard clay bricks? i want to use clay bricks for decopration here but fire inside? will this work?

here is my build: https://community.fornobravo.com/for...-oven-build-uk

thanks

[slschoming]

Thanks for the feedback, hoping to find some time this weekend to start stacking blocks!

[david s]

Yes, this is a much better solution than an exposed piece of angle iron. It is also the standard method of building lintels. You can get blocks with the channel already cut out. They are called knock outs here or alternatively get blocks called lintel blocks. Use two reinforcing bars in them and it will be far stronger than a bit of angle iron underneath, additionally you won’t have any rust issues.

[slschoming]

Thanks for the info, I like how you can't really see the steel unless you're looking up from below.. I wasn't sure how I would paint or stucco over the angle iron in front and didn't want to have to stucco so thick to cover it up. I am hoping to be able to fill in any small gaps between blocks and then just paint the block walls.

I will have a 5-6 foot span of 4th course over a wood storage entry under a countertop off to the side that I have been worrying about. I may end up cutting a channel in the top of the blocks and throw some rebar in there (tied off to some rebar that is going down a core of the walls it's all resting on) and then fill that whole channel in with concrete. Basically making one long CMU beam that will rest across the CMU walls and tie into the vertical rebar. Does that sound like overkill or underkill? I have a co-worker who keeps reminding me that I'm building a pizza oven and not a bunker.

*crude drawing attached

[cobblerdave]

G'day
Under view of steel support and sheet
regards dave

[cobblerdave]

[cobblerdave]

G'day SL
Even simpler still, just a couple of pieces of square steel I had laying about. I topped it with some 6mm compressed cement sheet under the holes in the block. Some steel connected to the top slab steel. Once the concrete was poured it's homebuilt over kill!
You could use proper gal lintals..
One important thing with your block. It's designed to have Mortar joints but layed dry you'll have to except a few gaps to keep it straight and true!
enjoy the journey
Dave

[slschoming]

cobblerdave, I love your reclaimed brick exterior! I was just noticing the 4th course of your cinder block base. Did you use angle iron on the back side to hold the coarse above the wood storage opening? I finally have all my block, now I am ready to start stacking. Thanks!