New (2nd) build in Brisbane

[applor]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

I can see all your tape across the board joins but can't see any around the edges joining the block work.
Taped on the underside?

[cobblerdave]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

G'day
I've even checked out the underside of that slab. You know I can't remember! But it's doesn't have any bleed by at all so I must have. Can't find any evidence of tape anywhere though can't even find any evidence of those taped melamine.
Regards dave

[applor]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

Pour went well.

Bit of leftover concrete so we filled the blocks up to the top which wasn't planned/necessary.

[cobblerdave]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

G'day
Well as expected that's a neat piece of work well done!
Were in the hell did you come across those " clip thingys" on the steel?
I'm feeling positively prehistoric using tire wire and brick chips as chairs
Regards dave

[Greenman]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

Very tidy work. Looks good but the wire and brick chips do the same job.

It is nice to see tidy work though.

[applor]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

Were in the hell did you come across those " clip thingys" on the steel?

You can buy them from Bunning's. They are called trench chairs.

Whites On-Site Trench Mesh Reinforcing Bar Chair - 20 Pack I/N 0910179 | Bunnings Warehouse

I thought I'd give them a go after the dramas I had with the normal rebar chairs from the last WFO suspended slab with the big round bases.

I cut the bottoms off so that they'd sit lower at the height I wanted.

If you look at the attached picture in my very first post you will see I also used them for my corner slab.

Highly recommend them.

[oasiscdm]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

Looking good. Nice work. not far form moving onward and upwards.

[applor]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

Yeah should happen pretty quickly from now on.

Realised last night I didn't put enough support under the formwork so one of the sides has dipped a bit. No big deal it just won't be completely flat

[applor]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

It seems I greatly underestimated the force required to settle concrete when hitting under the formwork.

I would say that the guides and discussion on these forums really needs to be updated on the details regarding pouring of the suspended slab but given that I am the only one who seems to have had this problem (and have done it twice now) I am simply an idiot.

Feeling pretty down with a lot more messy extra work to do.

*sigh*

[david s]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

This is usually caused by insufficient vibration or too dry a mix, or combination of both.

[cobblerdave]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

G'day
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Don't muck around just paint this on and forget about it. It's under the slab where no one will look anyway.
Regards dave

Regards Dave

[applor]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

The underside can wait - the build must go on!

Spent most of today on it. First step, levelling the concrete with clay dust.

Had planned to drop the Cal Sil board straight in but it was a bit longer than it should have been and too tight on the tolerances so took 50mm and 20mm off the side/front.

I then began unpacking the shipping crate of my WFO.

Got the Cal Sil levelled then trialled the fitment of the hearth pieces. Unfortunately the hearth pieces were not level, especially the front piece which was 7mm too high.
Ended up chiselling into the Cal Sil board and using the clay sand to level everything else.

Laid one of my gorgeous Pietra Gray marble tiles on the front. These will be laid all the way around the oven and the side bench. They will contrast perfectly with my Calcutta Marble prep bench.

[applor]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

Now with the hearth pieces levelled, I assemble the two dome pieces with the help of my dad.
Unfortunately there were a lot of casting imperfections which I ground off. Also, unlike my old Vibrok WFO, the Vesuvio does not have interlocking lips so I have no choice but to use refractory mortar.
Fair bit of working around and getting everything right.

Then the next problem. The supplied front arch is actually too low to sit on the calsil board, you can't get the door in there. Only solution is to raise its height using some off cuts from my blocks.
The the major problem. The flue entry cast block just doesn't fit/work with the front block arch. If you butt it against the front arch it is just too restrictive and fits poorly. It can't be fit over the top like it is meant to without significant work.

Out with the masonry blade angle grinder and I now have everything fitting pretty well.

[applor]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

This is when I should also mention the quality of this kit ain't quite there. First attachment shows the height difference between the left and ride side dome pieces.
The same is reflected inside, with the left being about 15mm lower than the right.
Shouldn't affect performance though.
With all that done, I opened up the refractory mortar which was actually all mixed ready to go and started spreading.

On Monday I will begin the insulation and meshing.

My current concerns are the flue. It seems I am just meant to slot the flue into the cast piece - or should I buy a plate?
I also need to buy a ceiling plate and second flue piece to extend through the patio.
Need to find somewhere local that has a 150mmx900mm flue piece as no one ships those.
The other big hurdle is how to raise the level of the exposed cal sil area so it is flush with the block work so tiles can be laid over it. My best/easiest idea is to just use some old MDF I have lying around, cut it to shape to fill the areas and sit it on top of the cal sil - but I am not sure if tiles will glue OK onto wood.

[david s]

Re: New (2nd) build in Brisbane

I wouldn't be putting MDF in there, it could get wet and swell and cause problems. Why not use some mortar to level it off?
Regarding your flue it is normal to use a double thickness flue pipe if going through a ceiling and roof. The outer one does not have to be stainless. You'll also need a "Dektight" for the seal where the pipe exits the roof, although not absolutely essential, depends on what the pipe is passing through and beside. You need to go 600 mm beyond the roof where the pipe exits. There are two types of Dektights, a black rubber one and an orange silicon rubber one for higher temp applications.

If your oven floor is elbow height then you must be really tall.

Does the kit provide instructions for installation?