Casa 90 corner build (and outdoor kitchen) begins....

[UtahBeehiver]

Latex fortified mortar with nylon mesh tape I believe is the standard joint method for durock.

[terdferguson]

Thanks Utah.

This past weekend a got a fair amount done. I removed most of the forms!



I put down my pavers and my vapor barrier.




Then it happened. I did something dumb. Real dumb. When it was time to cut my fb board I got out a sharpie and traced right around the oven floor stones. But terdferguson what about the dome? Um....yeah. So I didn't cut it wide enough to allow for the dome. And to make matters worse, I'm using two layers of board and I did it to both layers. So I spent an entire day fabricating pieces to fit exactly snug up to the outside of my already cut boards. It took forever. When I was done, I stuffed the gaps with little pieces of shaved board for good measure. Probably overkill, but whatever. I could have ordered new boards but I need to move forward and I think the end result is just fine. Take a look:

[terdferguson]

I placed my cooking floor on a thin bed of sand. Nice and level thank you very much.



Then it was time to place the dome. That front piece of dome is heavy. My neighbor and I could lift it just fine, but getting it up high enough to place around the floor stones was a real bear. We got it done in the end and our backs are intact.

[terdferguson]

So now I have a question. I'm placing an order for all my duratech parts....pipe, different pieces for going into the ceiling and out of the roof, spark arrestor etc. How do I handle the place where the pipe exists my enclosure. If you look at this picture you will see that I'd like to have the pipe come up through a piece of granite or marble that rests on top of my enclosure.



How do I make that spot watertight?

[terdferguson]

I think I answered my question. I can buy the duratech storm collar seen here:

http://www.ventingpipe.com/duravent-...ollar/p2475894

Then seal it with high temp silicone.

On another note, the lady at duravent insisted that I keep my granite 2" away from the double wall pipe. That seemed a bit silly to me since it's obviously a non flammable material. What do you guys thing?

[admin]

I think I answered my question. I can buy the duratech storm collar seen here:

http://www.ventingpipe.com/duravent-...ollar/p2475894

Then seal it with high temp silicone.

On another note, the lady at duravent insisted that I keep my granite 2" away from the double wall pipe. That seemed a bit silly to me since it's obviously a non flammable material. What do you guys thing?

The reason they recommend that is fire code regarding heat transfer. If it is too close, heat can build up and transfer, they want it to dissipate.

Tim
Forno Bravo

[terdferguson]

For future reference for someone else, I decided to use the duravent flat roof flashing (6DT-FF) in conjunction with the storm collar . The flat roof flashing can be seen here:
http://www.ventingpipe.com/duravent-...shing/p2476119

If I used the storm collar alone I would have two points of water entry to seal (where the storm collar meets the granite and where it meets the pipe). By using the flashing piece, I reduce that to 1 (where the storm collar meets the pipe) as the collar slides onto and overlaps the cone part of the flashing piece.

Edit: I realize that there is still a water entry point where the flashing lays on the granite but it's a big flat piece of metal on a flat piece of granite. Should be very easy to permanently seal that with silicone.

[joeykramer]

what did you use as a vapor barrier? did you use it between the floating slab and your ceramic fiber board?

[terdferguson]

I used some plastic sheeting/visqueen type stuff from home depot. I put it between my layer of pavers and the insulation board.

[terdferguson]

Made some more progress!



My flue pipe anchor plate didn't fit in the opening at the top of my casa oven. The hole was too small. That was irritating. I had to grind the hole to make it bigger which was added unnecessary work. Oh well. Eventually I got the anchor plate in there. Mortared it down and filled the 3 seams in the oven with mortar too.

Then it was on to the insulation. That is some nasty stuff. Reminds me of fiberglass with the fibers getting in your skin. I quickly learned to put on gloves and of course I wore a mask while cutting it. I put 4 layers over the oven. Should be nice and insulated!

[RandyJ]

Looking great. You should be very well insulated. Yes the blanket is some nasty stuff. I wore a respirator and a long sleeve shirt, and was still itchy after I was done. You are getting close to being able to cook something. Keep up the good work.

Randy

[terdferguson]

Guys I have a question about the landing and my brick arch. My design has my brick arch (made with regular clay bricks) attaching directly to the face of my oven and my concrete landing butting directly up against the oven floor. As seen here:



What about these things heating up? If I have the bricks and the concrete landing/counter directly against the dome and oven floor are they going to get insanely hot? Hot enough to burn someone I would assume? If so, I can't have that.

I've been reading some threads about heat breaks and what not, but I'm still not entirely clear on this. If I wanted to insulate my concrete landing/counter from the oven floor would I fill a gap between the two with something like vermicrete?

[david s]

Yes, you are correct. You've added tons of insulation so it would seem crazy to allow heat loss via conduction to the front decorative arch. In addition as you point out the expanding oven will put stress on the arch. I've seen enough ovens that don't have a flexible expansion joint, with cracked decorative arches, to convince me of their value. An insulated door is also a good idea. I think you may have to fabricate it yourself., for some reason FB don't.

[terdferguson]

Yes, I'll eventually make an insulated door for sure. But how do I attach my brick arch to the oven? And what about my concrete counter? How do I insulate that from the oven floor yet still have a continuous surface between oven floor and concrete counter?

[david s]

Every build is different, but in my design the heat break/expansion joint is between the outer decorative arch and the flue gallery, with the outer dome shell an integral part of the decorative arch, the two joined at the sides and the top. In the case of the oven floor mine is raised above the supporting slab so the two are not level. The overriding principle is that the oven be completely surrounded by insulation and the inner parts are free to expand independently from the outer parts.