Michigan WFO

[staestc]

Re: Michigan WFO

I wish I knew I would think that the low temp short duration curing fires would not be a problem, but then you asked the question to get an informed answer, not just a rank newbies opinion

What did you use to join the pieces of the flue, would be my only question.

And as an aside, the only clay chimney flues I have found around here so far are only 12" long, and that will make a tapered flue a more complicated affair, but still doable if I don't find any longer sections.

Travis

[mfiore]

Re: Michigan WFO

I put the keystone in my dome 2 weeks ago, finished the second, outer arch 5 days ago, and popped the chimney flue tile on yesterday. Do you think I need more time before starting some low curing fires? We have a few nice days, and I'd hate to waste them.

[mfiore]

Re: Michigan WFO

Travis, that was cut from a 8x13 flue tile. 24 inches long. See dmun's thread, linked above. It clearly shows how to lay it out and cut.

[staestc]

Re: Michigan WFO

Very nice job Mike! I figured out why hearing protection is so important with the angle grinder while cutting the concrete blocks. I am still getting gravel and dust out of my ears! I suspect you trying to get orange dust out
What size flues did you start with?

Looks great,
Travis

[dmun]

Re: Michigan WFO

It should work great. Mine does. It sure is noisy and messy cutting that stuff. Good work.

[Dutchoven]

Re: Michigan WFO

Mike
Nice job!
You reduced the area by about half which should make for a nice draw...
Best
Dutch

[Les]

Re: Michigan WFO

Looks great Mike - I think it will suck the wood out of the dome, OK - maybe not, but I think it will draw just fine.

Les...

[mfiore]

Re: Michigan WFO

I followed the lead of dmun and Les. Took a clay flue tile, cut it at an angle, and mortared it back together to make a tapered chimney that is 8x17 on the bottom (easily fits over my vent) to 8x8 on top.



I hope this tapered chimney will draw better. If I need, I can always add 8x8 flue tiles on top. These are much lighter. I don't have great photos of the cutting, but I refer you to dmun's excellent thread and photos. http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f8/d...-oven-765.html Thread #95
It cut OK with an angle grinder, but man did I create quite a cloud of orange dust. If ever there was an indication for a mask and eye protection, this was it! I ground out a curve on the bottom to conform to my entry arches.

Here is the flue tile in place.



So, the vent transition is approximately 4.5 x 21.5 inches on bottom, tapering up to 4.5x13. Then, entering the chimney flue tile, the bottom is 8x17 inches, tapering up over 2 feet to 8x8 inches. How do you think this will draw? I hope it draws well. It seems to work for Les. I really wanted to avoid a tall, heavy chimney. My plan is to try it as is with the cure fires. If needed, I can always add to it later.

[mfiore]

Re: Michigan WFO

I pulled the arch supports today. Everything seems pretty stable.

I reinforced the sides of the arches with angled brackets, as has been done by others. I'm not sure if this will interfere with my finish design plans down the road. If that's the case, they are temporary. I used a little piece of insulating board I had left sandwiched between the brick and bracket.

[mfiore]

Re: Michigan WFO

fb

Yes, that's a swimming pool. Unfortunately, it's not in my yard. It's just over the fence. Just like the other 2 beautiful inground pools surrounding me. The kids are wondering why I'm building a brick oven, while the other kids get to have a nice pool. I'm sure someday they'll appreciate it!

[fullback66]

Re: Michigan WFO

mfiore,
Is that a swimming pool in your back yard???
fb66

[maroongold]

Re: Michigan WFO

Thank you for the comments. I now do agree that the acid on the inside would be too tricky to use without causing problems, too hard to control the application and be close enough to see what you're doing. The wire brush works, just tedious. Using a sponge is a good idea. I'll check out the nylon bristle brush too. Thanks.

[mfiore]

Re: Michigan WFO

I just used a damp sponge at the end of each mortar session. I considered cleaning more thoroughly with muriatic acid, but thought against it. There are some areas inside the dome that might have benefited from it, but it is a tight fit in there, and a real pain to move around. The thought of using a volatile acid in such a tight spot, with poor ventilation, half the time working upside down, was enough to scare me away.

[Dutchoven]

Re: Michigan WFO

What are the tools and procedure for cleaning the mortar joints on the inside of the oven?
I've been using a wire brush, but there's still a film of mortar on the face of many of the bricks. It doesn't look very "shiney". I know that Muriatic acid (diluted) is used to clean off bricks on an outside, visible surface. Would you use the acid on the inside? A wet rag has worked well to clean up as I go, but I haven't always been around to do that while the mortar is still curing. That's why I use the wire brush after it's cured (a day later).
Also, I thought about this for an idea: A wire brush attachment in a drill and lightly brushing the joints and surfaces that need it, might be faster? Like getting your teeth cleaned at the dentist.

The wire brush with the drill/grinder may be too hard on the bricks...there is a cup brush product that uses nylon bristles(I think it is made by 3M)that have aggregate like sand throughout each fiber...as the bristle wears off from the friction more aggregate is exposed...sells like sandpaper by coarseness...I think that would be better...acid would work also...just make sure you rinse it well and clean it off of the floor
Best
Dutch

[Frances]

Re: Michigan WFO

Well done, nice arch - I'll bet you feel better about it now!

So now its onwards and upwards...