Outdoor kitchen in Texas

[UtahBeehiver]

Re: Outdoor kitchen in Texas

Tex,

That is a serious belly up to the bar counter. Watching with alot of interest since I am going to pour a concrete counter over my existing hearth and polish. Great job.

[texman]

Re: Outdoor kitchen in Texas

here are the results so far.

[texman]

Re: Outdoor kitchen in Texas

I poured my counters (thanks to Tom) Went well i think. Going to have some work on the edges, but that is to be expected. My forms had some movement and didn't keep my curve as well as i hoped. Should have braced it more.

Anyway here it is.
120' of 1/4' rebar, 16 x 1/4" tapcons imbedded at least 2.5" to hold the tipping force(i hope) 5 bags of maximizer concrete, Bonding agent, fiber and 5 bottles brown stain with 1 bottle of red through the mix. Used the expanding foam to fill gaps around that center post and the back edge. That was a surprise. I worked the gap as it cured and it held the back edge in place! Lots of trowel work! the mix was hard to work but finally got the aggregate pushed down and smooth. I like the color. I have it covered in plastic to cure.
How long to cure and when should the edge forms come off? I think the vertical support should stay there a while? Tracy

[Tscarborough]

Re: Outdoor kitchen in Texas

That sounds like the best plan of action. Now let's talk about Maximiser. It is a great product, but it has one issue that can cause problems. It uses lightweight aggregate, which is expanded shale. This causes problems if you are not ready for it because the aggregate is at nearly zero percent moisture. It sucks all the mix water out and causes a flash set before you can get it placed.

Here is the best way to mix it, either by hand or in a mixer. Mix 3/4 of a bag with the recommended amount of water stated on the bag, then add the last quarter. In your case, assuming a mixer, here is the sequence:


All the recommended water, holding back a small amount. Do not forget to add the bonding agent to the mix water, about 1 gallon of bonder to 8 gallons of water.

The fibers, a small handful per bag of Max is fine.

Concrete dye if you are using it.

3/4 of a bag of Max. Let mix for 2-3 minutes, then add the rest. If it is too stiff, add a little more of the mix water, the texture you are looking for will roll in the mixer, not slop. Total mix time 5 or so minutes.

Edit- The other thing about any concrete is that it hits a point after being mixed for 4 or 5 minutes that is looks too dry, then it relaxes. Excess water is not your friend in this type of concrete placement, so be frugal.

[texman]

Re: Outdoor kitchen in Texas

I am thinking that reducing my cantilevered bar top to 8" from 12" may be the best option here. Redoing my form is going to be easier than building four corbels and getting them set in the existing brick. 8" is 2" greater than the 1/3 of total rule. The fiber, maximizer and 1/4 rod should make that work. The hot chicks will have to be more careful where they dance. The main concern was knee room at the bar. I don't think anyone will be spending a great deal of time sitting at the bar when all the hot nekkid chix are dancing on it.
Tracy

[texman]

Re: Outdoor kitchen in Texas

If i can get Hot nekkid chix on my bar, I will hold it up myself or let it break so maybe i could catch them before they got away.
I have been trying to school myself on this some more. That is a good idea on the corbels and might work. My cabinets are rough stained cedar. I found some I braces

These guys are discussing this same setup and they think it would work with your combination of fiber, steel and stronger concrete. I even saw some test videos of cantilevered concrete 2" thick with 24" unsupported holding 350# of sand at the outermost edge. That setup had much more supported on cabinet than i will which as i understand is what makes the beam concept perform.
As you pointed out earlier, i dont have enough base to support my 12" cantilever without corbels or something else. MAybe the Hot nekkid chicks would hold it up for me!Wishing.
I think the I braces might help, but wouldn't prevent a failure. IMO
I am thinking of going to 2" thickness for one thing. I am thinking or your corbels or maybe just 4 vertical supports of some configuration. Back to the drawing board.
Tracy

[Tscarborough]

Re: Outdoor kitchen in Texas

OK, I thought about it today, and I think you can make the corbels work and not look like crap. 4 corbels, 1 at each end and two more splitting the difference into 3 sections.

Kind of like in this pic (Pay no attention to the dust bunnies and general cord disorder, I move stuff around a lot). Bring the bottom of the support down as far as you can. Notch it into the existing brickwork at the lower end. I don't know what the rest of your kitchen style is but rough wood may work, and finished if not.



edit for spellink.

[Tscarborough]

Re: Outdoor kitchen in Texas

Normally you would want any cantilevered projection to be no more than 1/3 of the total bending member, and that is for an anchored cantilever with sufficient thickness to allow steel reinforcement to operate to design capacities.

I don't know, if you plan on having hot nekkid chicks dancing on the bar it will probably fail, but under normal sedate use it will probably be OK. I can't really give you a solution, but I would probably reduce the overhang to 6-8" since I ALWAYS anticipate hot nekkid chicks dancing on my bar.

[texman]

Re: Outdoor kitchen in Texas

the counter top base is 12" as well. So total counter is 24".
Tracy

[Tscarborough]

Re: Outdoor kitchen in Texas

You said the overhang is 12", how deep is the counter top behind that?

[Tscarborough]

Re: Outdoor kitchen in Texas

Short of cutting brick out, the cobeling isn't going to work. Bend the wire in shallow arcs along the length, not kinked just not straight.

[texman]

Re: Outdoor kitchen in Texas

It is the same, it can be painted on as a surface bonder or added to the mix water as an integral bonder. You want to mix it as an integral bonding agent, the ratio of water to bonding agent depends upon the particular product as they come in various concentrations.

A small handful of fiber per bag of concrete, a normal bag is good for 1 CuYd of concrete (1.5# bag), for the corbeling I don't know without seeing how you are doing the base.

This is the bonding adhesive at lowes. Is this the correct stuff and how would you mix?
QUIKRETE Gallon Bonding Adhesive
Item #: 10428 | Model #: 990201
Shop QUIKRETE Gallon Bonding Adhesive at Lowes.com
The attached picture is of the base. It is 8x16 cmu filled with concrete and full brick veneer of chicagos. Does that give you enough info ?
I am going to get the fiber and rod at lunch. Sorry to be a bonehead, but not sure i follow

If you were to bend the wire in shallow arcs back and forth it would be even better since it is slick rod.

The rod will overlap and be wire tied, do you mean bend at those intersections?
Thanks for all the help. I obviously need it.
Tracy

[texman]

Re: Outdoor kitchen in Texas

hey russell
thanks for stopping in on this thread. I started this one because of all the things that are unrelated to wfo that go into an outdoor kitchen. like concrete countertops. getting close i hope. should pour counters this weekend. i got the chimney pipe yesterday, so plenty of work awaits.
Great job on your dome closure! you should feel 20# lighter
tracy

[UtahBeehiver]

Re: Outdoor kitchen in Texas

Hey Tex,

See you have another thread. From what I have seen on your oven build the kitchen will turn out great too. Probably driving you nuts while you wait for your vent pipe. Going to watch with interest on your concrete counters. Thinking of doing something like it on the base of my build.

[Tscarborough]

Re: Outdoor kitchen in Texas

It is the same, it can be painted on as a surface bonder or added to the mix water as an integral bonder. You want to mix it as an integral bonding agent, the ratio of water to bonding agent depends upon the particular product as they come in various concentrations.

A small handful of fiber per bag of concrete, a normal bag is good for 1 CuYd of concrete (1.5# bag), for the corbeling I don't know without seeing how you are doing the base.