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  • david s
    replied
    Re: Finally started

    Originally posted by mnl View Post
    Thanks David. No brick laying experience so will see how I go and might use mortar on first course. With the trial stack, I seem to struggle with some if the tops of blocks not being level and a bit rough which looked like were the casing was when they were poured.

    First of two sheets of reo for the base.
    Yes, you need to knock off those bits or they will stuff up your level. The blocks are tapered on the inside so they will release from the mould. The thicker walls go to the top side. This gives you a wider platform to put on either mortar or adhesive.

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  • cobblerdave
    replied
    Re: Finally started

    Gudday
    Why a square A stand?
    If I could give you something to consider. Why not a H with the two wood stowages on the sides . With your angle iron and 1/2 steel in the slab it will be plenty strong enough. You can never have to many wood stowages. If someone offers you wood you'll take it. I have the stand then a ready use stowage and 1/2 a 6x8 shed full
    Just saying as I don't know how the stand fits into its position in your yard
    Regards Dave

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  • mnl
    replied
    Re: Finally started

    Thanks David. No brick laying experience so will see how I go and might use mortar on first course. With the trial stack, I seem to struggle with some if the tops of blocks not being level and a bit rough which looked like were the casing was when they were poured.

    First of two sheets of reo for the base.

    Leave a comment:


  • david s
    replied
    Re: Finally started

    If you've not had any bricklaying experience, it is easier to mortar the first course to get it perfectly level then glue the subsequent courses of blocks together with something like Sikabond. It will be quite strong enough as you will be filling some of the cores anyway. I use the odd washer here or there to true up the levels. Once finished the thing can be bagged or rendered.

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  • mnl
    replied
    Re: Finally started

    Form work ready for slab tomorrow

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  • mnl
    replied
    Re: Finally started

    Another one

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  • mnl
    replied
    Re: Finally started

    A couple of photos of my trial stack. This shows the time capsule (the closed bit).

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  • mnl
    replied
    Re: Finally started

    Originally posted by cobblerdave View Post
    Gudday
    I take it your using the cement sheet so that you don't have to remove it later?
    Hi Dave

    Yes you are right that it will not come out. In fact there is a section that will never see the light of day again as my base is a square "A" shape. It was suggested to me today I should put a time capsule in there, just need to think what to put in the time capsule. Maybe a Britney Spears or Michael Jackson song, a Queensland 8 in row paper, a picture of the family? Open to other suggestions.

    Any I digress, the section that will never see light again is 1,170 x 780mm. I was thinking of using 3 lengths of angle to across this section as well as the perimeter being on blocks should be enough support.

    The front section which is open I could do with either ply or cement fibre, thought I would go cement fibre given I have to use that at the back.

    Thanks for tha taping tip, I probably would have forgotten that one.

    John - I have a fair bit of ply laying around from previous jobs and some planks I can use as support, therefore maybe I should rethink using that for the front section as I agree the fibre cement sheeting is expensive. SWMBO would also be happy for me to use some of the old timber I have laying around.

    Got a heap of 12mm reo bar today, some corners and also wire to tie up. Needed a fair bit by the time you put if down a couple of the cores and then a grid in the slab. I have probably gone overkill but would prefer to do that than have not enough hand it fall down.

    Mark

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  • cobblerdave
    replied
    Re: Finally started

    Gudday
    I take it your using the cement sheet so that you don't have to remove it later?
    Even if this is the case I'd still put some support in. 3 x2 untreated pine would be fine, double up if you don't think they be strong enough. It will make good kindling later .Screw together with chipboard screws and battery drill,leave the heads out so you can get to them later. Don't forget to tape all joints and edges least the cement bleeds through.
    Hope something here might help
    Regards dave
    Forgot to add make sure your screws are pointing in a direction you can get them out later when the slabs on top
    Last edited by cobblerdave; 11-02-2013, 07:56 PM. Reason: Add point

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  • chubbybones
    replied
    Re: Finally started

    Hi Mark,
    I think it would be cheaper to use timber than cement sheeting.Easier to cut and you wont have to worry as much about the airbourne fibrous material.If you go for the cement sheeting i'd go 15 mm.
    In both cases you'll need some sort of support below if you're doing a 100mm slab.Some 4x2's maybe 300-400mm apart in both directions supported by what ever you can find,i used some blocks and pieces of small timber which i could knock out later to dismantle the whole thing.It's better to be safe when working with a lot of weight.
    Regards John.

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  • mnl
    replied
    Re: Finally started

    Thanks hodgey1 and John.

    I haven't made much progress recently. I got the hole dug, form work, reo cut to go around the pipe a bit over a week ago, etc and now it is just sitting there waiting for the contractor who is doing it. I'm getting him to do the pour that slab as he is here doing other work, but will do the top one myself.

    While I have been waiting, I have been trying to gather some materials. Yesterday I got the rest of the grey blocks I need and have a test stack started in the garage. Got some refractory slab (300 x 300 x 50) for the floor and 50 fire bricks (only got 50 while I was there as that made 400kg in the trailer which was heavy enough). The plan for today is to get the rest of my materials like reo, fibre cement sheeting etc.

    For those that lay their slab on fibre cement sheeting, how thick did you use? If you used 6mm, did you just support it from below as I did not think it would take the weight (while the concrete is setting)? Alternately, I could use 15mm?

    Will post some photos of my (lack) of progress later.

    Mark

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  • silvfox
    replied
    Re: Finally started

    Your helpers will have trouble handling anything bigger than 1/2" rebar and that would be overkill anyway.
    Twelve O.C. like Chris says, tie wire the intersections and support so they stay centered in the slab. You could double up vertically on the parimeter for good measure.
    John

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  • hodgey1
    replied
    Re: Finally started

    You may have the cutest helpers on the planet. I used 1/2" rebar on 12" centers for my hearth slab.

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  • mnl
    replied
    Re: Finally started

    I thought I should also post a photo. It is going to be a long project with my lack of progress and also with such good helpers!!!
    Last edited by mnl; 10-22-2013, 03:58 AM. Reason: Spelling

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  • mnl
    replied
    Re: Finally started

    Thanks for the feedback.

    A couple more questions if I can please:

    - I'm planning on doing the foundation slab 6" thick with deeper rat walls. It has been suggested to me that I should put 2 layers of rebar in. Any views or is this overkill? If just one layer, what thickness have you used?

    - also, what thickness rebar have you used in your hearth slab. I was going to use 1/2" as this is what the Pompeii instruction have unless I get feedback to the contrary.

    If it makes a difference, I leave in Brisbane Australia where it is rare to get down to 5 degrees celsius.

    Thanks

    Mark

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