Hello from Sandpoint, Idaho

[Huckleberry Hill]

How did the pour go? The set up looked great...interested to see some pics of your progress.

Good morning!
it went pretty well. I used a higher priced mix- Sackrete 5000 Plus and it set up a lot faster than I expected. I even used a water reducing agent, which should have made it more flowable. I could have used a helper but, that's the way it goes. All in all I got it all in place and tamped into place in a couple of hours. Got a good hard trowel on it in a few more hours. Since I had the 80# bags on the back of our flatbed truck I did not have to lift them to the mixer, saving that fun for the bucket lift to the slab. It turned out easier than I thought.
I uncrated the Casa 90 yesterday and finagled the pieces off the truck so I could get to the ceramic insulation board. I was surprised there was not a template included to cut the board to for a perfect fit. There were 2 -24"x36" pieces and a couple of irregular cut scrapes that I will have to cut into little pieces to make work. I would have hoped that FB included whole, factory edged pieces! In light of how all the other components are so well made and pristine, I'd have to put this down as a mistake on the factory floor.[ 8/20/2018 edit- got an email from Anthony at FB today and they have overnighted a new full piece! Excellent customer service! Thanks Guys!]
Thank you for the tile mat idea! Brilliant! I probably have that laying around in the shop. I can return the pavers to HD and by a six pack of beer.
Well, think I''ll go out to the shop and dig around for that tile. I'ts so smokey here from all the fires around the Pacific Northwest I don't even want to go outside.
cheers,
michael

[MichaelPBoisvert]

I don't think that would be an issue as long as there is not too much of a gap between the tiles. I would be conserned about the mesh unless it were a very close knit mesh. MichaelPBoisvert was thinking about using tiles for elevating the insulation on his build. That was last month, I haven't seen any recent updates on the build.

This is correct! I had leftover floor tile and lined the structural concrete with it, under my insulation. I left a little sticking out past the insulation. I've been keeping everything covered, so I'm not sure how well or not well it will work.

[Gulf]

Michael,

Any amount elevation of the insulation is better than none. Elevation with a moisture barrier is even better imo. I think that you are golden with your choice.

[Huckleberry Hill]

I ended up getting some small round mosaic tile at Home Depot, It looked like they would allow water free travel between them. I laid them down with the backer facing up so it would not interfere with water flow. I think it looks pretty good! After that was done I found out that Dan, pecker88, could send me his leftover foamglas in time to meet my weekend warrior with the sons this weekend, now i will have a "belt and suspenders" assembly with the tile and the foamglas! I have a question that should probably ask FB- I keep seeing you guys recommending starting curing fires before stucco is done ( igloo style) but the FB instructions say to wait a week after stucco before starting fires. What do you think?

[SableSprings]

Looking great Huckleberry Hill Michael! The curing system that most of us agree on now is to start the curing fires with the insulation batting secured on the dome. The insulation moderates the brick temperatures through the curing process and helps keep driving the moisture out more evenly. The more consistent (and slowly increasing) brick temperatures in the dome/cooking floor during the 7-10 day curing process, the less likely the oven is to develop cracks. This is another case of the outdated instructions causing some confusion...and another great reason that when you have done your research that you see these type of inconsistencies, and you ask the forum community.

Again, great job ... incidentally the tile underlay looks really good. I thought the sheets would allow fairly easy trimming to match the oven footprint...wonderful to see it laid out so nicely. I really like the smaller tile pieces here to create more airflow/moisture escape routes under the ceramic board...even though now it's just "belt & suspenders" . Fabulous that Dan had enough leftover foamglas for your oven as well. Anxious to see the next progress pics.

[Huckleberry Hill]

Got help from son and grandson yesterday and set the oven prices onto the build. I got foamglas don pecker88 and got that situated under the casi bd. The Casa 90 pieces were ok to move with 3 people-I had been concerned.
Mortared the seams with the high temp mortar. Really have to keep moist for a few hours to prevent shrinkage cracks! Striped forms off CIP deck. Came out pretty good for a first. Today - insulation blankets and mesh-

[UtahBeehiver]

Should work like a champ, originally concerned when I saw pic for FoamGlas on top the realized you were using CaSi as a template. Cutting FoamGlas gives of a rotten egg smell, it is from the gas that is used to form the bubbles in the molten glass during the manufacturer process.

[david s]

Should work like a champ, originally concerned when I saw pic for FoamGlas on top the realized you were using CaSi as a template. Cutting FoamGlas gives of a rotten egg smell, it is from the gas that is used to form the bubbles in the molten glass during the manufacturer process.

If it’s hydrogen sulphide then it’s extremely poisonous, avoid breathing it. Check the MSDS on the product and follow their instructions re handling and cutting.

[david s]

If it’s hydrogen sulphide then it’s extremely poisonous, avoid breathing it. Check the MSDS on the product and follow their instructions re handling and cutting.

Yes it is Hydrogen Sulphide and here is one manufacturers MSDS. I should think that the small amount of cutting you’’d be doing, provided it’s in a well ventilated area, should not be a problem, but good to take precaution with a dust mask for particle protection.
http://www.ais-group.com.au/images/p...14_Annex-A.pdf

I think you have about the best underfloor solution that I've seen.

[Gulf]

It would have been good to have extended the tiles and glass out the thickness of the blanket insulation. That would have elevated the blanket above the damp hearth and provided something for which to anchor the lath or mesh. You may still be able to figure something out.

[Huckleberry Hill]

It would have been good to have extended the tiles and glass out the thickness of the blanket insulation. That would have elevated the blanket above the damp hearth and provided something for which to anchor the lath or mesh. You may still be able to figure something out.

Dang Joe! Great idea! I have enough left over to do that. Thanks!

[Huckleberry Hill]

It would have been good to have extended the tiles and glass out the thickness of the blanket insulation. That would have elevated the blanket above the damp hearth and provided something for which to anchor the lath or mesh. You may still be able to figure something out.

My plan was to anchor the lath to the concrete deck with Tapcon screws on 6" centers. The foam glass has no strength for this.

[Huckleberry Hill]

Yes it is Hydrogen Sulphide and here is one manufacturers MSDS. I should think that the small amount of cutting you’’d be doing, provided it’s in a well ventilated area, should not be a problem, but good to take precaution with a dust mask for particle protection.
http://www.ais-group.com.au/images/p...14_Annex-A.pdf

I think you have about the best underfloor solution that I've seen.

N95 dust mast and safety glasses, long pants and sleeves. It was a windy day so i worked up wind. Couldn't smell a thing. Dusty stuff too!

[Huckleberry Hill]

Added more tile and foamglas per Gulfs recommendation so insulation blankets are above concrete deck. Foamglas is pretty delicate- had to be careful when lathing oven. I think the shape turned out really good IMHO.

[Huckleberry Hill]