Re: Texman Build
I managed to cut most of the floor and begin laying it out on the fb board with a mix of sand and fireclay. The water pump in the HF saw lasted about two hours and quit. I spend the rest of Saturday trying to get a pump that would work. I finally ended up with a direct drive 210 gph pond pump that would supply a sufficient amount of water to the blade ($45 at lowes) i also replaced the supply line from the pump to blade housing with vinyl. The old line was already brittle. I just decided to pump fresh water from a five gallon bucket instead of recirculate the water in the saw pan water catch. I am still trying to get the floor level and get rid of the edges you can see in the photo.
I am also starting to realize that i didn't leave myself enough of a landing for the wfo. any ideas on adding about 6-8 inches of landing? I am thinking i can support the landing addition with the arch for wood storage below.
Tracy
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Re: Texman Build
Thx azatty
Trying not take anything for granted when i don't know what i am doing.
Tracy
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Re: Texman Build
Originally posted by texman View Post3. some of the tile edges line up good, others not so great. Should i try to shave the edges or just live with it and fill gaps with fireclay/sand mix? I wanted the larger tiles because i thought it would make a better floor, but the pics i have seen using brick seem to have cleaner joints.
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Re: Texman Build
Thanks for the reply Tom. Did i see in Octoforno's posting that masonry pencils would help with the marking of brick cuts? Do they still wash off in the wet saw?
Where is Whitaker-Greer ?
Tracy
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Re: Texman Build
Yes, we are located less than 30 miles from the Eglin plant and instead rail in firebrick from Whittaker-Greer. They are superior in every respect.
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Re: Texman Build
I contacted FB cust. Svce. and described the problem with the board. Maybe they will have a solution. The fb board is uneven and warped around the edge. I know that gravity will win eventually on the warping, but makes it really difficult to start the rings, level the floor when each coarse moves until enough weight is placed on the board to stress it to level in order to contact the concrete base.
I ordered the brick and (tiles=12x12x2.5 bricks) from Larkin Refractory in Georgia. Had to pay freight of course, but i couldn't find local and the DFW folks i talked to wanted to sell me high duty brick and didn't seem to interested in arranging the shipping. The folks at Larkin were really helpful and prompt and had everything i needed and provided the spec. sheets for their products. The freight was cheaper than paying the freight from FB store as well. I am really trying to do this right, like everybody else on the site. The local Acme and another store only had the elgin butler brick and had no idea of the composition. I bought some and will be returning to acme. I think several ovens in texas have been built with the elgin-butler firebrick. I decided against it after i started handling them and they crumbled around the edges and had numerous cracks and fissures. I have spent so much time on this kitchen that i couldn't bring myself to compromise on the essential component of the WFO, the brick. The brick are from Alsey, sold by Larkin. The Alsey bricks weigh about a pound more each than the butler and are much more uniform without cracks. Hope all this makes a difference in the end. see pics of the different brick.
Tracy
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Re: Texman Build
Originally posted by texman View PostThanks Lee
i called them tiles, they are 12" x 12" x 2.5" medium duty brick. Is it common to fill the floor joint gaps with a mix or fireclay/sand ? What is the specific sand to use ?
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Re: Texman Build
Thanks Lee
i called them tiles, they are 12" x 12" x 2.5" medium duty brick. Is it common to fill the floor joint gaps with a mix or fireclay/sand ? What is the specific sand to use ?
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Re: Texman Build
Originally posted by texman View PostHey all in the FB world. I am underway on my wfo, i think.
Need some guidance on setting the floor please, and how to deal with a few aggravations:
1. The FB board is uneven Not only are the pieces not consistent thickness but they even vary from one edge to the next by as much as 3/8". I mixed 1/2 fireclay and sand and tried to set tiles today. I learned that sand from home depot will not work; too coarse. I sifted the mix and the rest of the bag of sand through an old window screen to clean the larger aggregate. Aggravating to spend all the time and effort to make a level slab only to deal with this. It will take a 1/2 inch of sand/fireclay in places to level the floor. let me know whether to sweat on not sweat.
2. Any thoughts on how to set the 12" x 12" floor tiles, as i have pictured or just straight with center ? I am using Alsey medium duty refractory brick for floor and brick.
3. some of the tile edges line up good, others not so great. Should i try to shave the edges or just live with it and fill gaps with fireclay/sand mix? I wanted the larger tiles because i thought it would make a better floor, but the pics i have seen using brick seem to have cleaner joints.
4. I have read that cutting the floor to fit inside the dome is preferable and makes a more effecient oven. Is that the consencus ?
Thanks for your wisdom; I need all I can get.
Tracy
Here are my thoughts:- The floor needs to be level. Do what you have to do to get the FB board flat and level (have you notified FB about the problem?).
- If you align the floor tiles so the corners point to the oven entry, a pizza peel will glide over imperfections in the floor with less problems....Go on a 45 degree angle.
- I'd use firebricks for the floor. Tiles (unless they approach 2.5 inches thickness) are not thick enough to absorb enough heat to keep the floor hot enough to cook a pizza. Well, a tile might get hot enough to cook one pizza, but the second pizza is going to be burned on the top and uncooked on the bottom. If your tiles are thick enough, fill the cracks with sand (I used fire clay, but it was not well received as an option here).
- You can put the dome on the floor or the floor inside the dome, not much difference. I put my dome on the floor.
HTHLast edited by Lburou; 01-29-2012, 07:53 PM.
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Texman Build
Hey all in the FB world. I am underway on my wfo, i think.
Need some guidance on setting the floor please, and how to deal with a few aggravations:
1. The FB board is uneven Not only are the pieces not consistent thickness but they even vary from one edge to the next by as much as 3/8". I mixed 1/2 fireclay and sand and tried to set tiles today. I learned that sand from home depot will not work; too coarse. I sifted the mix and the rest of the bag of sand through an old window screen to clean the larger aggregate. Aggravating to spend all the time and effort to make a level slab only to deal with this. It will take a 1/2 inch of sand/fireclay in places to level the floor. let me know whether to sweat on not sweat.
2. Any thoughts on how to set the 12" x 12" floor tiles, as i have pictured or just straight with center ? I am using Alsey medium duty refractory brick for floor and brick.
3. some of the tile edges line up good, others not so great. Should i try to shave the edges or just live with it and fill gaps with fireclay/sand mix? I wanted the larger tiles because i thought it would make a better floor, but the pics i have seen using brick seem to have cleaner joints.
4. I have read that cutting the floor to fit inside the dome is preferable and makes a more effecient oven. Is that the consencus ?
Thanks for your wisdom; I need all I can get.
TracyTags: None
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