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  • Novaslo
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    Hey guys,
    On my original door I used the fire rope and purchased it on Amazon. It was ok but the glue only lasted about 6 months and then started to fail. I too was worried about the fibers and didn't like having it there.
    Then I made a new door. It is more like a "Plug" it is 4 inches thick with two layers of Fiber Board inside. It stands on it's own and is only 15 lbs - Check out my thread titled "Paso Robles Pompeii oven heat retention" "http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f8/paso-robles-pompeii-oven-heat-retention-21681.html

    It has a 1/2 inch steel lip that I bent a little bit to hit the bricks just right. It seals really well and leaves me not wanting the rope any longer.
    So no more worry about the fibers etc.
    Just input - that's all.

    Leave a comment:


  • kbartman
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    Sorry my bad........helps to read all the words...oops..

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  • texman
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    KB

    I think that may have happened because this stuff is water soluble and for interior use. So far it is working for me and gets soft when hot and very rigid when cool. We shall see.

    Texman

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  • kbartman
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    Originally posted by texman View Post
    i used the stuff to the right. the red stuff said it expands so i opted for the gray.

    texman
    I used the gray stuff on my stainless chimney extension. Some type of chalky white bad reaction that stained up my shiny polished stainless. After it cured a while then come in contact with rain and humidity is when I noticed it. Ouch not sure it was a bad reaction or just bad product. I'm curious how yours will do, and if any one can explain.

    Leave a comment:


  • texman
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    here is the data sheet on it.

    also says no msds required. the file "media server" is the msds of the red stuff. it looks kinda toxic. if toxic and kinda can be used together.
    3M? Fire Block Sealant FB 136

    3M? Fire Block Sealant FB 136, a one component, water-based, non-combustible draft, smoke and fireblocking sealant, designed to resist high temperatures and smoke passage in non-rated construction.

    3M? Fire Block Sealant FB 136 meets ASTM E-136, current 2003 International Building Code (IBC), 2003 International Residential Code (IRC), 2003 International Residential Mechanical Code, 2003 International Fuel Gas Code and NFPA 5000 draft, smoke and fireblocking requirements. 3M? Fire Block Sealant FB 136 features superior adhesive strength, caulk rate, and no-sag application, plus a halogen-free formula.3M? Fire Block Sealant FB 136 can be installed with a standard caulking gun, pneumatic pumping equipment, or it can be easily applied with a putty knife or trowel. 3M? Fire Block Sealant FB 136 will bond to concrete, brick, metals, wood, plastic, and cable jacketing. No mixing is required.3M? Fire Block Sealant FB 136 Features:? Easy clean up with water? No special handling, routine disposal? Thixotropic: Will not sag or run in vertical or overhead applications? Halogen-free? Tack free in approximately 15 minutes? Gray color? High caulk rateApplications: Use 3M? Fire Block Sealant FB 136 to seal interior construction voids around wires, pipes, HVAC ducts and vents, in wood or steel framed non-rated construction. May also be used around chimney, fireplace and other framing gaps. Not for exterior use.

    This 3M Fire Protection Product meets the OSHA definition of an article and does not require a MSDS.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by texman; 04-02-2015, 08:48 AM.

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  • texman
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    i used the stuff to the right. the red stuff said it expands so i opted for the gray.

    texman

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  • GianniFocaccia
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    Given that your oak is so, consistent, I would try stainless and screws. Someone more knowledgeable should have a solution.

    I saw this at Lowe's the other day, but unfortunately, couldn't find an MSDS online. Perhaps a call to 3M? The rockwool refractory caulk I used in my thermal break was essentially liquid ceramic fiber, and not friendly at all to breathe once dried.

    Leave a comment:


  • texman
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    That fiber is a concern. Is there a food safe gasket that you know of for the temps we reach? That is why i used that goop on the inner seal. i guess i could do the same on the rope between the oak and steel. I am not real sure if that stuff is safe either btw.

    i like the stainless idea, but fastening/welding would be a challenge. how would you attach it? i guess it could just be screwed into the oak?

    Texman

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  • GianniFocaccia
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    Tracy,

    Ha! If you were 'done' your kitchen wouldn't be at the point it is now. Nice approach to a lighter-weight door.

    BTW, you might consider attaching a band of thin stainless to cover the rope (and door). It's refractory properties make it inherently unsafe, and will abrade into the air over time.

    Leave a comment:


  • texman
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    Door experiment # 46-2

    Another door-16 ga. steel with encased FB board 2 1/2" thick, ⅝" hi temp rope gasket sandwiched between oak front and steel rear, then ⅜" hi temp rope gasket around flange where door meets inner arch covered by 1000 deg fire stop to encase the fibers. I actually found this 1x12 oak at Lowes that is solid, not sandwiched and joined. Used a piece of pine on the bottom that can be replaced as it wears and or turns black. Weighs 15# (much lighter than my 38# ?" steel door that i am convinced is just a huge heat sink out the front)
    I have $75 in steel cost, $75 in labor for welder, oak was $15 i think, gasket about $20 -so prob $190 w/ tax. Planning to put it to the test this weekend and see if my temps hold longer. Temps have been good, but i think this will make them even better.

    The other door is a true experiment. It is basically home-brew encasing lava rock. it weighs about 20# i think(looks much heavier) The cost is really $0. I had all the stuff left over. I did not have lime, so it may not work, but cost is right to fail. I used left over firebrick dust instead of lime. it has cured several weeks and should be dry enough to test. I just used a left over arch template and screwed some left over masonite to make a well form. Put a layer of the pseodo home-brew then lava rocks and covered with brew. Shook and vibrated the p_ss out of it and trowel packed it as well. should be interesting. Plan is to cover with a leftover piece of concrete board to form seal and use the same gasket material as above. Again not a dime spent other than the material cost that is destined for trash anyway. stay tuned ...

    Texman
    ps-yes John you were right. I am never done.

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  • texman
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    thanks Micko

    Pig - maybe. Lamb- i wouldn't know where to start.

    Texman

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  • Akamicko
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    A seriously great build there Texman !!!

    I would love to see a whole lamb or suckling pig come out of your oven.

    Leave a comment:


  • texman
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    Originally posted by GianniFocaccia View Post
    I don't believe you, not one little bit!

    Really, Tracy, your kitchen turned out beautifully, what a gorgeous space! You're right, tho. Something on the face of the oven will look nice, whatever you put up.

    John
    Thanks John. I dont even believe myself. I have thought about a brick veneer chimney on the face like DJs kinda.

    Texman

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  • GianniFocaccia
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    I think i am done with the kitchen
    I don't believe you, not one little bit!

    Really, Tracy, your kitchen turned out beautifully, what a gorgeous space! You're right, tho. Something on the face of the oven will look nice, whatever you put up.

    John

    Leave a comment:


  • Polo
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    Beautiful job, you should be proud of yourself.

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