Texman Build

[UtahBeehiver]

Re: Texman Build

Hi Tex,

Been wondering where you have been. Looks like you have been busy. Coming together nice. Used your little math excercise on determining taper and bevels in those last course. Worked good but my circle is not exactly round so I have to do a little shaving adjustement but the process got me really close to where I needed to be. Thx.

[Gulf]

Re: Texman Build

I hope that I am the first to say that TScarborough was right about the jack arch. It fits the lines of your cornerbuild perfectly.

" Not sure why i spent so much time on my actual oven archs since they are about to disappear forever. I am proud of them anyway"

You could always leave just a little reveal so you can still see a small portion of them, and maybe later on, build an exterior door for smoking meat or just to add a little versatility to your oven.

Again it's looking great.

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

You could always leave just a little reveal so you can still see a small portion of them, and maybe later on, build an exterior door for smoking meat or just to add a little versatility to your oven.

gulf
Thanks Russell and Gulf for checking in. Glad the math helped, i feel like i have made a small contribution to the forum. Something besides, "Don't do what i did". Sometimes a break is good from the WFO build. I constantly think about whats next and how to do it "right" with no regrets. Would never be this far with a WFO this good without this forum and guys like y'all. Cheers!
Gulf,
I was wondering about the oven as a smoker and how that might work. Great idea and i will look for some examples. I guess it would be kinda like Amac's arch but more in front with a maybe 1" reveal? like the inner arch/outer arch transition then.
The Jack arch went pretty smooth really. The keystone is a actually a piece of firebrick from the floor tiles. That is the only full size fire brick i have left. I think the acid changed the color, but it looks good. Here is a better picture.
Tracy

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

Waiting on chimney pipe to arrive. Starting to think an igloo is the way to go. Need some advice on that, please. I have 3" of blanket and a bunch of vermiculite to return, looks like. But i think the igloo would keep things more open in the kitchen, but will require stucco by someone with no clue. But, been there too. Couple of questions: Do you give up any measurable efficiency with an igloo vs. enclosure? I am thinking of all that vermiculite i was going to use in addition to a 3" layer of blanket. Also i have the chimney that protrudes past the outer vent arch. That is just an appearance issue and i think it would be fine. Just definitely want to make sure i am not adding any more risk of fire since this thing is under roof. I will be studying the many great igloos out there.
Tracy

[PlanoPhil]

Re: Texman Build

Tracy
I would have loved to have been able to build my oven under my patio cover as you did but Plano code required about a 15 foot chimney. You have a very nice space there.

Phil

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

Phil
i was in plano/murphy a few weeks ago and noticed some really tall chimneys around there. seemed higher than the 2' higher than nearest 10' distance. I am outside city limits so code boys dont care but i still care about fire. i have my chimney pipe now and will have 6' above roof which is 3' more than the rule above and 1' more than 5'minumum penetration rule. hopefully plenty of draw and no embers.
Tracy

[Gulf]

Re: Texman Build

[QUOTE=texman;136601....Starting to think an igloo is the way to go......
I have 3" of blanket and a bunch of vermiculite to return, looks like........ Also i have the chimney that protrudes past the outer vent arch. That is just an appearance issue and i think it would be fine. Just definitely want to make sure i am not adding any more risk of fire since this thing is under roof. I will be studying the many great igloos out there.
Tracy[/QUOTE]

You can use a lot of vcrete as an extra 4" layer over your 3" of blanket. It can also be used to help insulate the outer arch and flu transition up to the point that your Duravent takes over. As for as the protrusion of your chimney, that can be taken out in your face brick.

[PlanoPhil]

Re: Texman Build

We have the 10 foot horizontal and 3 foot above rules. My problem is a very steep roof.

Had to build mine 10 feet from my patio cover.

You will love it. Expensive pizza but what the hell. You only go around once.

Don't get discouraged if your first one is a dud. It's not as easy as some here let on. First lesson I learned is that heat saturation is key.

Good luck.

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

Got my chimney pipe and ordered the wrong stuff. Called customer support at ventingpipe.com and they took return no problem. But get this, they gave me my $163.00 credit and here is what they said about the return:
Dear Tracy,

Your return request has been processed. You are not required to return the item(s) listed below and may dispose of them at your discretion.

So i have a 6" section and a ceiling support box for 7" triple wall pipe if anyone needs them. Crazy. Must be some really good margins on this stuff.
I was trying to use a ceiling support for the chimney pipe, but have abandoned that now. My chimney will be 3 x 3' sections for a total of 9' of flue. that will be about 8' above roof with spark arrestor. Hope to get that in this weekend and maybe actually start to cure the WFO. WOW! i only have two sections of the 3' now, but i think that will work for small curing fires until i get the last section next week.
I have overdesigned and underengineered my bar counters. Tscar has been a great help on the counters. Cantilevered concrete is difficult, to say the least.
Tracy

[UtahBeehiver]

Re: Texman Build

Looks like you have more time to work on the counters while the new vent pipe comes . Are you going to polish your concrete counters? That is what I want to do on my hearth, pour a 2" concrete and polish so snooping around the forum on experiences.

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

still trying to decide. My plan is to do a troweled finish of stained concrete. I have around 30 sq ft of bar, so polishing would be a chore. i have found the recommended polishing pads and they are reasonably priced. i think for a small area, i would definitely polish. The pads will work in your grinder as well. Look at Neil2 "angled flight deck" thread. Good discussion of the polish as well as pouring the countertops. http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/39/a...k-17629-2.html HTH
I my troweled finish doesn't turn out good enough, then polish is my backup plan.
Tracy

[aiannar974]

Re: Texman Build

Hello Texman - I live in Lucas just a stones throw from Murphy. You mentioned regualtions about chimney height and distance. Where do I find this information? I was planning on buying one of the small prebuilt ovens like the primavera and did not think about this.

Thank you,

Anthony

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

Anthony
The 2' above nearest 10' is the general rule for flue draw, i believe. The codes will vary by city/state from that. I am outside the city limits and don't have to have inspections and permits, so not familiar with that. I think code is the minimum and should be the starting point and try to exceed that when possible and meaningful. You might reach out to Planophil. I think he had to deal with the code folks in plano. Sorry i couldn't help more. Good luck on your build and post lots of pics.
tracy

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

What is the best way to bend/shape 3/8" solid stainless for heat break?
My plan is to fill my heat break with the stainless square rod. The bottom will be a straight piece, but i thought i could bend the rest in the shape of the arch and fill the entire break with stainless. I have square rope gasket and kaowool for behind the stainless. I was thinking that i could cold form the rod in a vise and/or tubing to the arch shape and somehow get that in in one piece. I have a small propane torch for heat that i may need to use. (may have to be a 3 piece overall if i cant get a one piece arch piece in there)

So the plan is this: 1. 3/8" rope gasket in first in multiple passes( i got 20' of the stuff) 2. the stainless rod as the appearance piece from looking inside the arch. 3. the kaowool from the outside to seal it all up. That way the ceramic is encased by stainless on the inside and kaowool on the outside and neither the rope or kaowool is in danger of food contact and i have a 3 piece heatbreak, which should be good.
Tracy

[UtahBeehiver]

Re: Texman Build

Tracy,

Any access to a rebar bender/cutter or even a conduit bender that electricians use?