Texman Build

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

not that i know of. maybe i could rent one from home Depot? never used one or did much bending for that matter.
Tracy

[UtahBeehiver]

Re: Texman Build

I bet a 1/2" conduit bender from a rental store would work. Probably cheaper than a rebar bender.

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

Come to think of it, the place i purchased the pencil rebar from does all the custom fabrication of that, so i bet they could do it. i will check them out.

[Tscarborough]

Re: Texman Build

Fill it with damp sand when you bend it to keep it from kinking.

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

Tom
The rod is solid stainless. Not sure if this stuff will bend, break or kink. I thought the heat might help.
Tracy

[UtahBeehiver]

Re: Texman Build

Tracy,

If you still have your arch form take it with you if you have them bend the rod then it should match exactly.

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

Good idea.

[deejayoh]

Re: Texman Build

Whoa there Tracy...
Why do you want to fill the heat break with Stainless rod? It conducts heat about 10x as efficiently as firebrick (a rating of 1.4 vs. 16 according to this link)

You would be better off filling it with mortar. Maybe I've misunderstood your post, but I'd scrap that plan. You want non heat-conductive insulating material. CF rope, caulk.

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

well, i thought that using 3/8" square rod for appearance and using rope/caulk behind the stainless for the rest of the break would be ok. I would lose the benefit of the break for the 3/8" that the stainless occupies somewhat, but would gain a clean food friendly transition. I know stainless is on the better end of the spectrum as far as metal conductors go, but the whole point of a heat break is to break the heat seepage from the dome via the outer arch/vent. i have seen many posts of concern of the caulk and rope being separated from food contact. I just figured a 3/8" uncompressed mortar fill would just crumble. Do you think it would hold on the arch? the bottom floor break could easily be filled with mortar/ash/rope. I guess the others that have used stainless on the floor break have accepted the inherent conductive shortcomings of stainless and used it there. I know you used Kaowool and rope i remember. I just wanted to cover those two up with food friendly material in the arch as well. Are there any other food safe materials to cover the rope/kaowool?
Tracy

[flyfisherx]

Re: Texman Build

I really don't see a reason for a break in the first place. I had a fire this weekend that cleared my dome perfectly. No amount of break was going to stop any heat from seeping over to the outer arch. In the initial stages of my fire, I had flame licking the vent. All the vent gasses and heat have to go there anyway to escape up the flue. I put a plywood door in place after I was done Sunday night(real door in the works) and this am I checked and I easily still had 300 degrees or more inside. I could not hold my hand on the inner arch brick.

This is just my 2 cents from my experience. The concept in theory sounds good but I just don't think it would provide any merit.

[deejayoh]

Re: Texman Build

Couple of thoughts

1) I have seen posts of "concern" regarding caulk separating from the heat break, but no posts where someone using the right material (i.e., a high temp rated caulk, not fireplace caulk) has actually experienced failure. My experience with the high temp caulk so far gives me no pause for concern. It is quite solid.

2) Stainless is a MUCH better heat conductor than firebrick, so my point is you would have been better off w/o a heat break than you will be with stainless

3) To your point, FFX - the purpose of a heat break is not to keep the entry arch cool while firing. I agree with your point about gasses heating the vent flue - it is one I have made too. But I think the purpose of the heat break is really to maximize heat retention in the dome on day 2 or 3. Theory is that after firing, the flue vent is an open, uninsulated structure that when attached to your oven, is basically a giant heat sink pulling heat out of the dome. So the idea is that if you can reduce this heat transfer, the oven will not cool as quickly and you'll have higher cooking temperatures on day two or three. Makes sense to me. Insulation is about heat retention too - not firing temps. So why put on 3 or 4 inches of expensive insulation and leave the front of the oven to leach heat? And since Tracy already has a break, makes sense to me to maximize the benefit.

[GianniFocaccia]

Re: Texman Build

Well said, Dennis. I would like to add that with or without a heat break, I believe there is a benefit to adding an outer door to an oven with the idea of keeping the entryway as insulated as possible and away from heat-robbing wind. This would work even better if the flue is enclosed and insulated.

[flyfisherx]

Re: Texman Build

3) But I think the purpose of the heat break is really to maximize heat retention in the dome on day 2 or 3. Theory is that after firing, the flue vent is an open, uninsulated structure that when attached to your oven, is basically a giant heat sink pulling heat out of the dome. So the idea is that if you can reduce this heat transfer, the oven will not cool as quickly and you'll have higher cooking temperatures on day two or three. Makes sense to me. Insulation is about heat retention too - not firing temps. So why put on 3 or 4 inches of expensive insulation and leave the front of the oven to leach heat? And since Tracy already has a break, makes sense to me to maximize the benefit.

Makes perfect sense. This is one of these Doaaaah moments! It has nothing to do with an active fire but retaining heat once the door is in place.

Gotcha! Good luck with a solution Tracy. Nice Idea

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

Thanks for the great conversation. I see what you mean about the stainless and mortar would be better. I saw so many of the stainless heat breaks on the floor that I think i just took that and ran all the way around the arch with it.
I have the right stuff, 3/8" square rope Ceramic Fiber Rope, Twisted, Round and Squre Braid and the Kaowool. The floor break is easy with rope and mortar and a nice touch of ash. The arch is the challenge to me. Would you leave the rope exposed or the Kaowool? Or encase the rope on both sides with KAwool. ( i bought two tubes and have 20' of rope) I think i can cram the rope up in the break and it wouldn't be seen. Neither of the two products are food safe, but wont contact the food anyway.

Anybody need 6' of 3/8" stainless? and some a ceiling support for a 7" chimney?
I got some 3/8" rebar and 8 bags of 5000 psi concrete too. Maybe i should build another oven?

Tracy

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

aNeed advice on a few areas that i hope to tackle this weekend:
1. What is the best method to mount the metal chimney base to the brick? I have a 7" triple wall flu that has holes at each corner. I saw Tu did some really custom brick cuts to mount on top and secure the base. If i do a layer of brick, it has to be flush with the course below since i already have the old steam engine stack for my chimney. DJ did mortar i think. I remember mention of using screws that just popped out from heat and/or brick crumbled. I will have a TALL flue around 9' (if i use all the pipe) so i will need to secure the pipe well because of lots of West Texas Wind. Probably will have to build a chase around the pipe for appearance and stability. I finally have all my chimney parts (3 x 3' stainless triple wall, spark arrestor, roof flashing, storm collar, and base.) Hope to burn something this weekend.
2. If i do get to burn something, i think i will use the "heat beads" (is that just plain ole charcoal?) to start curing. I have my 3" of blanket as well and trying to decide the age old cure with or without insulation.
3. Gonna seal that concrete bar as well. That should be easy, i think.
I think i can see the light.