Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

[stonecutter]

Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Kurt..no it's not. I linked the product to the page with product data.

I've used it many times, good stuff.

Prosoco makes really great sealers, but that kind (chemical) isn't good for a WFO. Flash point is 212* with that one. Always check the PDS and MSD sheets.

[Kurtloup]

Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Is Thoroseal a clear product? Being cementitous, it doesn't sound like it. Know anything about Siloxane PD? I saw that sealer at a local contractor supply.

[stonecutter]

Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

I do have a suggestion because you are in a freeze thaw area. I'm not sure how weather tight your panels will be, so it might be worth considering coating the dome with Thoroseal. It's good insurance and a good product...compatible with masonry because it's cementitious.

[stonecutter]

Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Hi Utah-sama,

Are you going to clad the copper directly to the dome, without insulation. If so, someone is going to get seriously burned, and if you plan to insulate, your copper dimensions are going to be different.

Check posts #539 & #594...plenty of insulation.


Looking good Utah, I can't wait to see the finished product.

[Laurentius]

Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Been a while since I posted. Not much worth taking pics for but I have been doing odds and ends on the oven and the oven area.

Decided to layout the dome for the copper shingles and started my learning curve for bending and forming copper.

Hi Utah-sama,

Are you going to clad the copper directly to the dome, without insulation. If so, someone is going to get seriously burned, and if you plan to insulate, your copper dimensions are going to be different.

[UtahBeehiver]

Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Copper Part 2

[UtahBeehiver]

Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Been a while since I posted. Not much worth taking pics for but I have been doing odds and ends on the oven and the oven area.

Decided to layout the dome for the copper shingles and started my learning curve for bending and forming copper.

[mrchipster]

Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Now my door looks just plain boring, I guess I need to pick up the pace.

BEAUTIFUL and Elegant at the same time.

Chip

[Greenman]

Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

What an interesting door. No dull and boring there! It looks great. Originality and creativity find their way to this site and these pleasant surprises just keep on coming!

[stonecutter]

Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

wild cherry, AKA giant pretzels...........

I was going to guess black birch. They look great with the finish of the door.

[Tscarborough]

Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

You used giant pretzels for handles?!

[Gulf]

Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Put handles on the door so one more item I can mark of the check list.

"Handles" Hll, those are a fashion statement !!!.
They blend great! with your door style.
They look like that they would have been better previewed on the MQ,though. .
Seriously, they look great, and don't fret if something similar shows up again on someone else?s build. Mine

[UtahBeehiver]

Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Put handles on the door so one more item I can mark of the check list.

[stonecutter]

Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

Ah, well maybe natural stone on the next oven. Thin stone veneer is about x2-x3 what manufactured veneer is. That said, it doesn't require any more skill than installing g fake stone does, because it isn't masonry work.

What did you end up getting? The product I'm installing is made by Eldorado, it's called shadow rock and,have to admit, I like the look....it's the closest I've seen to natural stone.

[stonecutter]

Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

What a nice looking door! It will compliment the copper cladding I'm sure.


For manufactured veneer on CMU, you could get the pre-blended, that's the easiest way....or just go 2:1 with type S or N, and use a little admix. I happen to be doing a fake stone job right now, and I'm using type N. I'll put some pics on my thread when it's done.

I don't work with this stuff too much, this is the 5th project in the last 16 years...but since it relies on bond exclusively, make sure your substrate is clean and your mortar is rich.

I would like to make a suggestion though. Go with real stone on the base if you can. They sell thin stone that adheres the same as manufactured veneer, and corners are available too. With all that copper work, it would really elevate the overall look.