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This weekend we visited with my daughter near Oslo. Her boyfriend/partner helped me out, cutting the slate for my tabletop. Since he does this for a living I thought it best to let him help with choosing the slate and cutting the shapes. It was nice not having to cut the slate myself.
The slate is 3 cm thick and 30 cm wide.. (used for stairs) I wanted 4 cm thickness but that almost doubled the price so I'll make do with 3 cm.
I've insulated my oven and now have 3 layers of blanket and a extra layer on top. I just overlapped the edges about 5 cm and didn't bother to cut off corners to keep the joints uniform so it looks a bit lumpy but I'm thinking I can smooth things out with my layer of perlite/concrete mix. I'll seal the slate before I start laying the perlite on top.
I'll be curing some more today... I'm at around 500F so I thought I'd bring it slowly up to that temp again and maybe shoot for 600F.
I've been drying out my oven over the weekend trying to keep the fires low. I felt safest trying to stay below 300 F. At times it did go over that but not for too long. As the water evaporated the bricks got hotter and it was easier maintain a uniform temp inside the oven. The oven has now some newly formed hairline expansion joints I knew they would come so I'm not bothered
Today if weather permits I'll put the ceramic blankets on and do the rest of the curing with some insulation. I have 3 rolls 61 x 730 cm and i'm hoping that it's enough for a 3 inch layer.
I'll have to wait for the perlite layer until after I've installed the slate table top so that water doesn't get trapped close to the dome.
Very true. Keep making the fires bigger and when the oven dries to a certain point it just peaks, suddenly. Probably responsible for quite a few cracks I expect.
G'day
If you keep the same sized fire you'll find the oven temperature will go up itself as the oven dries. Starting a bigger fire usually results in a huge jump in temperature that you weren't expecting.
Regards dave
Started curing my oven on Thursday. Had a small fire going for about 6 hours and tried to keep the temp at around 200 F. You could really see the water vapor coming out of the bricks.
On Friday I had a 12 hour cure at around 300 F. This time I moved the fire around in the dome. As the bricks got drier the temperature increased on the outside of the bricks.
Today I plan on 350 to 400 F and then I might insulated with the blanket if I feel that the bricks are dry enough.
I just couldn't help myself, had to get some flame in there...
This coming friday I plan to start some very small curing fires, have a few beers and just enjoy looking at it.
Type N mortar (before adding sand) is 1/2 lime and 1/2 portland. So, 2 parts type N is equal to 1 part of each. I used type N to make home brew for laying my flu and chimney .
I purchased a bag of KC 50/50 which most likely is what you used. I'll just add clay to that mix. Thanks....
I ran out of Lime and have only 12 bricks to lay and my chimney is done. Should I buy another bag of lime to finish the chimney or could I use regular mortar?
Type N mortar (before adding sand) is 1/2 lime and 1/2 portland. So, 2 parts type N is equal to 1 part of each. I used type N to make home brew for laying my flu and chimney .
I ran out of Lime and have only 12 bricks to lay and my chimney is done. Should I buy another bag of lime to finish the chimney or could I use regular mortar?
G'day
If 175 mm ( 7in ) is what's available, I can't see why not. Smoke is only a real problem at start up when things are cold. ( unless you wood not properly dry)
Start your fire on the hearth under the chimney, so the chimneys good and hot and drawing well. Then its a case of just pushing the fire into the oven proper after alls good and hot.
Regards dave
Got my outer arch done and now its time to figure out how to attach a steel chimney. Is it really necessary to use a 200 mm chimney on these things? The biggest they use in Norway is 175 mm. 200 mm is available but nobody seems to have them in stock.
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